Metieval

My chain line went to hell, when I added the Oval ring on a double crank. the Only draw back is noise. a Perfect clean & lubed chain line is pretty damn quiet. Like all you hear is spoke whrrrr and what ever crunch is between tires and pavement. I'm still on 1/8th chain... I should swap it out for 3/16. I never ride fixed.

hairnet

Thanks. TB14s were my first choice but QBP doesn't have them in 36 hole.

Dougboy

How can that be accomplished? Are axles perpendicular to dropouts enough? (aka both sides just as far in/out)? Assuming chainline is off, shouldnt the cog be somewhat angled to line up an off-axis chainring? Or am I over analyzing?

Any pad suggestion to reduce wear on black brake surfaces?

TejanoTrackie 

If both the frame and rear wheel are built properly, then it is possible to align the wheel with the frame such that the chainring and cog are in parallel planes. If the rear wheel is turned out of plane, then the bike will handle wonky as if it is constantly trying to turn. The chain will also be noisier, and more likely to derail.

Scrodzilla

Come on down to San Diego. We've got a huge box of them.

hairnet

I already ordered a Velo Orange. Thanks though

Scrodzilla

You'll be just as happy with the VO. It's basically the same rim, just a few mm narrower.

TejanoTrackie 

But the VO has a visible seam. Isn’t the TB14 seamless ?

Scrodzilla

Okay, so there are two slight differences.

hairnet

While on the wheel topic, the VO is 1mm larger in diameter than my current rim and I hope to get away with just swapping rims without relacing the wheel. It's been a while since I did much wheel building and I don't remember if being 1mm short will be an issue. Of course I will have to measure my spokes to confirm the actual length. Should I go through with it or just get new spokes?

ThermionicScott 

Is the old wheel still together? If the spokes come up to the top of the nipples, I'd expect you'd be fine.

Scrodzilla

Yeah, I bet you'll be okay. A rim being 1mm larger in diameter only results in a difference of .5mm when it comes to actual spoke length.

TejanoTrackie 

When you consider that spoke lengths are available in 2mm increments and that they probably vary by +/- .5mm in actual length, then we are talking about an insignificant difference. Also, I suspect that BSD varies from specified values by as much. One thing for sure, better to have spokes that are a bit too short than too long.

TimothyH

Rim tape for Archetypes?

Not knowing any better I'd go with 16 mm Velox Fonde de Jante. Archetypes are 17.x mm wide and I'm sure 21 mm tape is too wide.

Still, I have a few rolls of 21 mm Stans tubeless tape. Can this be used instead?

Veloplugs?

Something else?


-Tim-

veganbikes

My favored strip is the Continental rim strips. I have used Fonde De Jante in the past for various rims but find the nice strips easier and they don't move as much. If I were going cloth I would probably do Newbaums because I have used their bar tape and love it and it is MUSA and is not just cotton.

TimothyH

The Continental rim strips make sense.

I've ordered them and hope that 18 mm wide will fit. I could not find the 16 mm version anywhere outside of Europe.

Bonus points for matching the Continental Supersonic tubes perfectly.

Thanks!


-Tim-

veganbikes

I think all of mine are 18mm and they are on Archetypes and TB14s and they fit fine if I am not mistaken. They are a great match to Conti stuff and high quality.

Happy to help!

REDMASTA

I often swap from from risers to drops which can be bit of a pain to center and level them and torque the 4 bolts properly (even gaps and such). Thinking of purchasing a second stem and just swapping bar and stem as a whole unit since it's easier to align the bars over the front wheel and less bolts to fiddle with.

The steerer tube is cromo, doing this once a week shouldn't put undue stress on the fork or headset over time? That was my only concern.

Scrodzilla

Your fork and headset will be fine but you may eventually wear out the threads on your stem and star nut if you're swapping back & forth often.

REDMASTA

I guess something is eventually going to wear out. Hopefully greasing the bolts and proper torque will help extend the life of the threads. Long as they're easy to replace parts I'm OK.

The best option would probably be to get another bike to attach the bars to and avoid having to swap

steve-in-kville 

Not sure where I read this... but I am replacing my cog and chain. Will this have any effect on the chainring? I thought I read somewhere that the entire drivetrain should be replaced all at once to reduce premature wear. I plan to upgrade my crank and chainring in a month or two. Maybe I read too much...

Bandera

Yep.
The 48T Campag ring on my FG has seen a good many chains & cogs w/ no visible or functional wear.

-Bandera

JohnDThompson 

Cogs carry the load on fewer teeth, so they wear out much faster than chainrings. If you replace the chain and cog as they wear, you may never wear the ring to a point wear it needs replacing. Unless you ride a lot in muddy/gritty conditions, anyway.

steve-in-kville 

Okay, good to know. I just ordered new wheels, cog and chain. Got my eye on a new crankset later this spring.

TimothyH

Does a Campy Record Pista bottom bracket need regular maintenance - bearing preload, regreasing, etc?

Or is it completely sealed, maintenance free?

I know other bottom brackets are interchangeable but I'm asking about the Record Pista specifically.


-Tim-