Hey. I know this question has been asked before ... but the answers are so divided.

I have a track fork, original to my frame.

I have a clamp on brake ... I have a fork replacement. But i don't want to use either.

I want to drill my track fork , cause I'm stupid and stubborn.

My brother is a machinist by trade, so he can easily drill it. And do a perfect job.
I also have a brake that is short reach enough.

I really don't care about sacrificing the "re-sale" value of this track bike. Or it's track-bike integrity. :/

I don't want to ride brakeless. I like riding fixed on the street, and i feel so much better having a front brake in the city cause I'm old, and people in cars are mental.

The question I'm asking, is if i drill my fork: is it dangerous? To me and my bike?, with any unintended force that it might endure.
Not like I'll be putting a whole lot of weight on the front end of my bike mind you. I'm pretty lightweight @ 135lbs ... not sure if that even matters.

Thanks.
Here is a pic of the crown.

No problem at all with drilling the fork crown. It's done all the time.

The normal caveats that your brother surely understands apply, especially to ensure that the exit hole is on axis.

Drill it at center height so there's ample material above and below, but that will mean that you'll need shaped spacers front and back to meet the curve of the crown, and probably trimmed to clear the crown race.

Lastly, finish by painting, or using grease on the sides of the hole to prevent rust.

Thanks. Wouldn't have thought about that part.👍

DA headset, nice lugs...

Would like to see pics of the rest of the bike. What is it?


-Tim-

Yes, more of that bike please.

Might just be the angle of the photo, but the actual surface area on that crown seems super tiny. I'd worry about having enough room to actually drill and install a brake. If it does work, you're almost certainly going to have to throw on some spacers to make the caliper clear the headset cup.

I have solutions to my problem but I want to create more problems for myself instead? Why? Just use the other fork or the clamp on brakes probably way easier than having to drill and paint. Seau grateau also brings up a great point about there might not be enough material as well.

It could be done possibly if you have enough material but I don't really see a point when you have two solutions to your problem already.

Also would like to see more of the bike. I like fine italian components like Duraace

It's a level. My second NJS bike. Wanted something low-key. No rainbow flakes 😝

But it has a sexy back. Fast-back seat stays 🤤

It is quite small. Smaller than any other fork I own. I'll see what my brother says. If he has reservations, I won't do it.

That is purdy and very clean. Could use some rainbow flake but just inside the letters, that would be pretty sweeeeeeeet!

Pardon my ignorance, but NJS?

If it helps, my track fork which I drilled almost 50 years ago has a forged sloping crown, roughly 12-14mm tall, base to crown. I had to grind away some at the back of the brake bolt's block and even a bit off the washer in back to keep them clear of the crown race, but no big deal.

I'm sure it's crack one day, but in truth there's still more material than the transition between steerer and blades on either side.

As I said in my first post, folks drill these all the time, so if you do it right, you should be fine.

I'm sorry I asked, because now I know what a beautiful frame you want to defile.

Defiling this frame would be to not make it what he wants.

Bikes are made for riding, and for those who claim to care about "purity" using a kludge like a clamp on brake is far worse (IMO) than drilling and nicely fitting a compact brake.

Nah, I'm just saying I really like it.

#preach 🙏🏻

just buy a cheap tange fork and call it a day.

Thanks

We're actually similar-ish, and I've always wished mine had simpler logos like yours.

Sweet bike! I'll also be using a sugino 75 on mine. With tb-14s. Hard to tell by your pic... but looks to be the same, by the black guard around the valve hole.

they spelled level wrong on yours.

You are correct. Thinking of rebuilding those wheels with black TB14s though.

Sh*t, maybe that explains why the bb shell is stamped "MJS".

Just measured the crown. It's only 12mm high. :/ --- which would leave me only 2mm on top/bottom around the 8mm recessed hole in the back. Seems kinda sketchy.

Also... thanks for bringing up the spacers. I would definitely need a bunch to clear the cup.

Meh. Too much work. I'll just use my beater fork for now. --- and order a nice tange one for the future.

Thanks for all the help. ✌️

Lol.

I have a pair of black tb14s on my commuter. I use them with a front brake, and the black anodization on the brake surface wore off in a week or so. Especially in the rain. Also stained my gum-wall tires, and drips all over my fork. A mess. But looks like you ride brakeless, so it shouldn't be a problem.

Defiling a track frame for road use by drilling for a fork is defiling it far less than riding it on the road without a front brake or a possibly inadequate one (the clamp-on). I know a mechanic who specialized in fix gears. People bring some gorgeous bikes into him to work on. If it is a brakeless bike ridden on the road, he does his best to completely remain aloof from the bike. Doesn't matter how gorgeous or special it is. He used to have for sale the very best Japanese keirin bikes. I watched him work on a customer's brakeless bike of that genre. Asked him about it. Told me it hurts him so much to see a bike that is going to get destroyed that he cannot pay attention to any part of it he isn't actually working on.

If you brought that same bike in to him for a drilling for a front brake, he would do his best to make that drilling perfect. So you could put a beautiful SS bolt in and ride it brakeless as intended when you took it back to the track.

Ben