Changing Rear Cog
#1
Changing Rear Cog
Just got my new single speed put together a few days ago, a Dawes Streetfighter. I'm loving it so far but the gearing is too tall for my ***** ass. It's at 46/16 freewheel right now. I want to try an 18t freewheel cog and also would like to replace the fixed cog on the other side with a freewheel 20t in case I ever need to climb something real steep while I'm carrying extra weight. Changing cogs is something I've never done before. Is there anything else I'll need to replace the fixed cog with a freewheel 20t and should I buy a tool to do it myself or take it to a bike shop? Also any recommendations as far as what brand of cogs I should go with? Thanks.
Last edited by czr; 09-18-17 at 09:26 PM.
#2
How much room do you have in the dropouts? Adding 2 teeth will move the wheel forward by roughly 1/4 inch. If the wheel is already really far forward, you might have to lengthen the chain.
At the same time... a few days wasn't enough for me to adapt to the relatively tall gear of my SS when I put it together.
At the same time... a few days wasn't enough for me to adapt to the relatively tall gear of my SS when I put it together.
#3
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Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
To change a fix gear cog, you need a chain whip aka cog wrench with a chain that works on your cog and a lockring spanner. Both are good tools to have if you want to ride fixed. Then you can acquire different cogs and change gears as you like within the limits of your dropout/track end. (The Dawes has a track end.)
Ben
Ben
#4
How much room do you have in the dropouts? Adding 2 teeth will move the wheel forward by roughly 1/4 inch. If the wheel is already really far forward, you might have to lengthen the chain.
At the same time... a few days wasn't enough for me to adapt to the relatively tall gear of my SS when I put it together.
At the same time... a few days wasn't enough for me to adapt to the relatively tall gear of my SS when I put it together.
#5
To change a fix gear cog, you need a chain whip aka cog wrench with a chain that works on your cog and a lockring spanner. Both are good tools to have if you want to ride fixed. Then you can acquire different cogs and change gears as you like within the limits of your dropout/track end. (The Dawes has a track end.)
Ben
Ben
Last edited by czr; 09-18-17 at 09:36 PM.
#6
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Freewheels are easy. They spin on hand tight, then will self tighten as you ride, same as road bike freewheel. By the same token, you'll need a freewheel remover to take them off when that time comes.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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maybe 2 total, one in each side.
However I believe they still make double freewheels, so a 4s flip flop is possible, though it'll be pricey.
However I believe they still make double freewheels, so a 4s flip flop is possible, though it'll be pricey.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
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#12
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I'm sure that at least one person did it.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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#13
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
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You CAN have two on each side if you really want to. 17+19 on one side and 20+22 on the other.
FREEWHEELS ? White Industries
FREEWHEELS ? White Industries
#15
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To remove the freewheel, you'll need the appropriate freewheel remover tool. There are a bunch of them, and the one you'll need depends on your freewheel -- there should be some indentations on the outer face of it where the splines of the tool fit into to wrench it off. You won't need any tools to put the new ones on. Just remember to grease the threads.
Original post sounds like you have a fixed cog on the other side that you want to remove too. For that you'll need a lockring wrench or pliers to get the lockring off (remember that it's reverse threaded, so turn right to loosen). Ideally you'd use a chain whip to get the cog itself off, but you can do it without using the reverse rotafix method -- basically using the frame and chain as your chain whip. Should be easy to Google instructions.
Original post sounds like you have a fixed cog on the other side that you want to remove too. For that you'll need a lockring wrench or pliers to get the lockring off (remember that it's reverse threaded, so turn right to loosen). Ideally you'd use a chain whip to get the cog itself off, but you can do it without using the reverse rotafix method -- basically using the frame and chain as your chain whip. Should be easy to Google instructions.
#16
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But be careful. There are some particularly cheap single freewheels with no provision for a remover tool. Once installed, destructive removal is the only way to get them off.
#17
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A shop did me the favor of installing an ACS Crossfire which had to be destroyed to be removed.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 09-20-17 at 09:25 PM.
#18
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Huh ? I have 3 of them, and have removed them non-destructively using the proper tool. It can require removal of the axle locknut, if that's what you mean, but certainly does not need to be destroyed.
#19
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#21
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#22
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Don't go back to that shop. No destruction required.

