Nashbar Track hubs - on sale
#26
Skidmaster
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got mine today. buttery smooth!
i'll probably replace the track nuts, though. they don't appear to be the best ever.
i'll probably replace the track nuts, though. they don't appear to be the best ever.
#27
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Doh, mine didn't come today... If they don't come tommorow I'll be mad. I've got tomorrow off, and I've got an itch to build some wheels. I broke a spoke on my 30 year old 27" wheels the other day, and haven't gone to the LBS to buy a replacement because I'm counting on replacing them with these new wheels I'm building. But since I'm riding around one spoke short the rear wheel is so incredibly out of true that its ridiculous. I brought it in enough so that it doesn't rub on the stays, but I'm glad its a fixie, because you couldn't use a brake with a wheel this out of true. It looks crazy too, wobbling all over the place as I ride.
But its ok, babies, the new wheels will be ready soon.
I did get a 1500$ insurance check in the mail today from an accident a few weeks ago, so that softened the blow a bit.
peace,
sam
But its ok, babies, the new wheels will be ready soon.
I did get a 1500$ insurance check in the mail today from an accident a few weeks ago, so that softened the blow a bit.
peace,
sam
#28
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You still don't have them? I ordered mine the day I posted and got them last Thursday.
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#30
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Nashbar orders always take a long time for me.. Maybe its just where I am in relation to their warehouse or something... I ordered mine the day you made the post, only at night, so I effectively ordered one buisness day after you, so I should have got them on Friday, but I didn't, so today was the next choice. Tomorrow is more likely though.
Went ahead and bought a spoke for my wheel at the LBS.. The craptable thing was 1.50$, not including a nipple! Every time I go to that LBS I tell myself that whatever I bought there last time that was outraegously overpriced was a fluke, and that the next thing will be more reasonable. I expect a markup at a brick and mortar store, but a buck fifty for a straight gauge spoke? Man...
peace,
sam
Went ahead and bought a spoke for my wheel at the LBS.. The craptable thing was 1.50$, not including a nipple! Every time I go to that LBS I tell myself that whatever I bought there last time that was outraegously overpriced was a fluke, and that the next thing will be more reasonable. I expect a markup at a brick and mortar store, but a buck fifty for a straight gauge spoke? Man...
peace,
sam
#31
Senior Member
my lbs charged me $0.20 each for straight 14g a few months ago, and he measured for me!
#32
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alright, I ordered them and going to give wheelbuilding a shot.
#34
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i'm still waiting for mine too... i hope they come tomorrow, i'm sick of riding on a freewheel.
#35
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For all you wheel builders out there, it seems the measurements on the website aren't quite right for these hubs!
Here are the correct measurements for you to plug into the spoke calculator of your choice, hot off my digital micrometer.
Nashbar High Flange Track Hub - Front:
Spoke circle diameter (d): 62mm for both sides
Flange width from center (WL and WR): 33mm for both sides
Spoke hole diameter (S): 2.4mm
Hub spacing (OLD): 100mm
Nashbar High Flange Track Hub - Rear:
Spoke circle diameter (d): 62mm for both sides
Flange width from center (WL and WR): 28mm for both sides
Spoke hole diameter (S): 2.4mm
Spacing (OLD): 120mm
The rear hub has 22mm of exposed axle on each side, and the track nut needs 12-14mm for good engagement. That means you could add up to 10mm of stuff. These would be easy to respace to 126mm, and it may be possible to respace to 130mm, if you don't have very fat dropouts. For steel frames its usually better to respace the frame instead of the hub, but for Al, Ti, or C frames you want to respace the hub instead.
The hubs are indeed buttery smooth. They have a tiny N logo on them, which I may try to remove with a touch of solvent, but I haven't given it a shot yet...
peace,
sam
Here are the correct measurements for you to plug into the spoke calculator of your choice, hot off my digital micrometer.
Nashbar High Flange Track Hub - Front:
Spoke circle diameter (d): 62mm for both sides
Flange width from center (WL and WR): 33mm for both sides
Spoke hole diameter (S): 2.4mm
Hub spacing (OLD): 100mm
Nashbar High Flange Track Hub - Rear:
Spoke circle diameter (d): 62mm for both sides
Flange width from center (WL and WR): 28mm for both sides
Spoke hole diameter (S): 2.4mm
Spacing (OLD): 120mm
The rear hub has 22mm of exposed axle on each side, and the track nut needs 12-14mm for good engagement. That means you could add up to 10mm of stuff. These would be easy to respace to 126mm, and it may be possible to respace to 130mm, if you don't have very fat dropouts. For steel frames its usually better to respace the frame instead of the hub, but for Al, Ti, or C frames you want to respace the hub instead.
The hubs are indeed buttery smooth. They have a tiny N logo on them, which I may try to remove with a touch of solvent, but I haven't given it a shot yet...
peace,
sam
#36
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Originally Posted by phidauex
Nashbar orders always take a long time for me..
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#37
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does anyone have the threading of the axles? I am looking to replace the track nuts (and i havent gotten the hubs yet). 10x1mm or 9x1mm or?
thanks
thanks
#38
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Originally Posted by phidauex
The hubs are indeed buttery smooth. They have a tiny N logo on them, which I may try to remove with a touch of solvent, but I haven't given it a shot yet...
#39
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Oooo.. Good tip, BostonFixed! I've actually got some polishing compound lying around, so I'll give it a shot!
peace,
sam
peace,
sam
#40
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Originally Posted by BostonFixed
Here is my magic tip for removing logos off stuff. I have some 'polishing compound'; available at the auto parts store for like $3 a can. It's slightly more coarse than solid car wax, but there is no sand or pummice in it or anything. Just a quick little polish with that on a rag will take off any printing on anything. It also gives a very nice shine to any old aluminum parts that have oxidized.
#41
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Yup... I just tried the polishing compound, and couldn't get it out. It seems to be part of the anodidzed surface or something. Laser etch would make sense.
Damn, and I was gonna stamp NJS and DuraAce on them and resell on ebay.
peace,
sam
Damn, and I was gonna stamp NJS and DuraAce on them and resell on ebay.
peace,
sam
#42
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Any idea how accurate the specs on the Nashbar Single Speed Cassette Hub – Disc are? I've decided to make an off road SS project out of a Tange Novara frame, and that hub (with steel cog freewheel) seems like a good deal at $30, given the reviews above of their other hubs.
Here's Nashbars specs. Anyone have it and have measured it?
flange dia 58mm (L and R)
Flange to center
34mm Right
38mm Left
Also, anyone have pointers on disc mount to fixed conversion? Might make a good flip flop, though fixed off-road seems a little crashy to me.
Here's Nashbars specs. Anyone have it and have measured it?
flange dia 58mm (L and R)
Flange to center
34mm Right
38mm Left
Also, anyone have pointers on disc mount to fixed conversion? Might make a good flip flop, though fixed off-road seems a little crashy to me.
#43
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This is a good article on the disk hub/fixed hub conversion:
https://www.63xc.com/jasom/milldisc.htm
Unfortunately I don't own one of the nashbar SS hubs, so I can't measure it for you. Those measurements seem close though. The only sketchy thing is that I think they might be measuring the ACTUAL flange diameter, instead of the spoke circle diameter (which is annoying, because the spoke circle diameter is what we really need). That was the problem with the track hubs, their measurement was 71.5mm, but the actual spoke circle is 62mm. If that is the case, you'll need to subtract about 9mm from the total flange diameter to get the spoke hole circle diameter.
When in doubt, wait to buy the spokes until after you have the hub and rim in hand, so you can make your own measurements.
peace,
sam
https://www.63xc.com/jasom/milldisc.htm
Unfortunately I don't own one of the nashbar SS hubs, so I can't measure it for you. Those measurements seem close though. The only sketchy thing is that I think they might be measuring the ACTUAL flange diameter, instead of the spoke circle diameter (which is annoying, because the spoke circle diameter is what we really need). That was the problem with the track hubs, their measurement was 71.5mm, but the actual spoke circle is 62mm. If that is the case, you'll need to subtract about 9mm from the total flange diameter to get the spoke hole circle diameter.
When in doubt, wait to buy the spokes until after you have the hub and rim in hand, so you can make your own measurements.
peace,
sam
#45
Patrick Barber
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damn, wish i had this two days ago!
#46
fixwrite
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Originally Posted by jo5iah
Any idea how accurate the specs on the Nashbar Single Speed Cassette Hub – Disc are? I've decided to make an off road SS project out of a Tange Novara frame, and that hub (with steel cog freewheel) seems like a good deal at $30, given the reviews above of their other hubs.
Here's Nashbars specs. Anyone have it and have measured it?
flange dia 58mm (L and R)
Flange to center
34mm Right
38mm Left
Also, anyone have pointers on disc mount to fixed conversion? Might make a good flip flop, though fixed off-road seems a little crashy to me.
Here's Nashbars specs. Anyone have it and have measured it?
flange dia 58mm (L and R)
Flange to center
34mm Right
38mm Left
Also, anyone have pointers on disc mount to fixed conversion? Might make a good flip flop, though fixed off-road seems a little crashy to me.
The flange to center numbers are correct too.
#47
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Originally Posted by fixwrite
I have the Nashbar SS Cassette Hub and just measured it carefully: Nashbar's 58mm number is SPOKE HOLE DIAMETER. Publishing flange outer diameter as a wheelbuilding spec would be pointless anyway.
The flange to center numbers are correct too.
The flange to center numbers are correct too.
However, to be fair, after posting the revised measurments for the track hubs I was contacted by an employee of the company who spends time on this board in a personal capacity who said they'd mention the error to their superiors and try to get it changed.
peace,
sam
#48
Patrick Barber
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I got my front and rear hubs last Thursday or Friday. They are indeed smooth and even kinda pretty. However, one of the flanges of the rear hub was kinda mangled. The flanges have swoopy holes cut in them, and one side looked like someone had fallen asleep at the lathe--the cuts were uneven, the holes too big (one of them almost went through a spoke hole), and they weren't sanded at the edges.
No big, I'm returning it for a replacement, but just thought I'd report back. Very intimidated and excited about my first wheel-build.
("no big"? is it obvious that we've got a Buffy 1st season DVD in the house?)
No big, I'm returning it for a replacement, but just thought I'd report back. Very intimidated and excited about my first wheel-build.
("no big"? is it obvious that we've got a Buffy 1st season DVD in the house?)
#49
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Ouch! Both of mine are perfectly machined, looking very nice. Sorry to hear about yours... Glad they are returning it. I'm still waiting for my craptacular rims from ebay that I ordered 3 weeks ago... They should be arriving today, but I've said that a few times already.
Don't feel scared about your wheel build, feel happy! I recommend printing out the Sheldon Brown directions so you have them right at your side. I get all my parts together, sit down on the couch, and either watch the simpsons or some anime while I build up the wheel.
In your case, you could, like, throw on the Buffy while you, like, ya know, build the wheel and stuff!
peace,
sam
Don't feel scared about your wheel build, feel happy! I recommend printing out the Sheldon Brown directions so you have them right at your side. I get all my parts together, sit down on the couch, and either watch the simpsons or some anime while I build up the wheel.
In your case, you could, like, throw on the Buffy while you, like, ya know, build the wheel and stuff!
peace,
sam
#50
Patrick Barber
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thanks for the boost, phi. I am definitely more excited than intimidated.
well, to their credit, Nashbar is happy to replace it, and since it's defective they'll even pay shipping both ways. Cool by me.
i have four very detailed wheelbuilding instructions to choose from...Sheldon Brown, Lennard Zinn, John Forester, and Helen Garvy. I think I might use a mix of Sheldon and Lennard. it'll be kind of like the first time we slaughtered a chicken...Holly reading the instructions and me getting my hands dirty. Er. Kind of like that.
what kind of craptacular rims, exactly?
well, to their credit, Nashbar is happy to replace it, and since it's defective they'll even pay shipping both ways. Cool by me.
i have four very detailed wheelbuilding instructions to choose from...Sheldon Brown, Lennard Zinn, John Forester, and Helen Garvy. I think I might use a mix of Sheldon and Lennard. it'll be kind of like the first time we slaughtered a chicken...Holly reading the instructions and me getting my hands dirty. Er. Kind of like that.
what kind of craptacular rims, exactly?