Smooth Skidding
#1
Thread Starter
Lone Fixie
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Providence, RI
Bikes: Fixie/SS: Specialized "Langster", Hobo SS: Schwinn World Sport
Smooth Skidding
How do you get a nice smooth skid on a fixie? Whenever I try it seems really jumpy, it works, but it jostles me a lot.
#4
Arizona Dessert

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Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
Teabags on the counter... fanstastic.
But that is the right way, the futher you lean forward, the easier to skid and especially skid smoothly. But that doesn't mean you stop any faster. That is: Smooth skidding does not equal fast stopping. But leaning forward teaches you to balance you body dyamically and properly weight the bike for a good stop.
Al
But that is the right way, the futher you lean forward, the easier to skid and especially skid smoothly. But that doesn't mean you stop any faster. That is: Smooth skidding does not equal fast stopping. But leaning forward teaches you to balance you body dyamically and properly weight the bike for a good stop.
Al
#5
the farther you lean forward, chances are, the longer it will take you to stop. the whole idea in leaning way forward is to take as much weight off the rear so that you can sustain the skid for a longer distance.
that said, if your skid seems jumpy, it is probably because your legs aren't fully locked causing the wheel to lock, push your legs a bit, lock, push your legs, etc. on a harder gear, you may have engage in some fencing with your stem in order to do this. on an easier gear -- or with stronger legs -- you may find that just unseating yourself and locking your legs while nearly vertical is sufficient.
one last possibility is that when you're skidding you don't maintain control over the bike well so that you wobble all over the place. two possible suggestions -- 1) skid with your hands on the widest part of the bars (you can do it with your hands at the stem, but if you're having trouble, this might help) so that you can control the front end better, and 2) locking your thighs against the stem and bars in order to keep your front end pointed directly forward.
hope this helps.
that said, if your skid seems jumpy, it is probably because your legs aren't fully locked causing the wheel to lock, push your legs a bit, lock, push your legs, etc. on a harder gear, you may have engage in some fencing with your stem in order to do this. on an easier gear -- or with stronger legs -- you may find that just unseating yourself and locking your legs while nearly vertical is sufficient.
one last possibility is that when you're skidding you don't maintain control over the bike well so that you wobble all over the place. two possible suggestions -- 1) skid with your hands on the widest part of the bars (you can do it with your hands at the stem, but if you're having trouble, this might help) so that you can control the front end better, and 2) locking your thighs against the stem and bars in order to keep your front end pointed directly forward.
hope this helps.
#6
i don't understand the teabag thing
edit: never mind...(n)ow, i get it
edit: never mind...(n)ow, i get it
#7
Arizona Dessert

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Originally Posted by weed eater
i don't understand the teabag thing
#8
skidding should not require much strength if weight is properly forward. If it feels really hard you are not leaning forward enough. For those of you that don't get the teabags just rest your thighs against the handlebar and put your head as far forward as you can.
#11
Thread Starter
Lone Fixie
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Providence, RI
Bikes: Fixie/SS: Specialized "Langster", Hobo SS: Schwinn World Sport
Ok, I'll try the leaning thing first. It's my first solid week with a fixie and I'm able to do skids at lower speeds, and I am getting down stopping without using the breaks. I just wasn't sure if there were any secrets to skidding.
#13
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Originally Posted by 80sMutRider
I just wasn't sure if there were any secrets to skidding.
For me it is a harder skill and more effort to be able to evenly/smoothly resist pedals in circular motion for a hard non-skid slow down, than it is to stand up lean forward and skid.
Al
#14
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From: Marin County, California
Bikes: Santa Cruz Roadster 49x18, GT Zaskar single speed MTB
I have been riding fixed for a year at 49x18 with a front brake. A month ago, I started to train myself to skid. There is no question that getting your weight forward is a big help. A smaller gear helps as well. Until last night I thought any skid would require major concentration and good body and foot position. Last night, I was riding in the saddle at 20+ mph when a woman crossed into my path with her dog on a leash. I locked up the rear wheel immediately, much to the shock of all three of us. Practice makes perfect.
#15
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Originally Posted by travismcgee
I have been riding fixed for a year at 49x18 with a front brake. A month ago, I started to train myself to skid. There is no question that getting your weight forward is a big help. A smaller gear helps as well. Until last night I thought any skid would require major concentration and good body and foot position. Last night, I was riding in the saddle at 20+ mph when a woman crossed into my path with her dog on a leash. I locked up the rear wheel immediately, much to the shock of all three of us. Practice makes perfect.
If I lean stand up & use no front brake and skid, its a longer stop. If I lean stand up use front brake and skid rear wheel, it can be quite dangerous.
Al
#16
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From: Marin County, California
Bikes: Santa Cruz Roadster 49x18, GT Zaskar single speed MTB
Sorry, I was not clear. I did use the front brake as well. I stayed seated and kept my weight back. I was surprised that I could get the rear wheel to stop without thinking about it and without leaning forward.
#17
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Originally Posted by travismcgee
Sorry, I was not clear. I did use the front brake as well. I stayed seated and kept my weight back. I was surprised that I could get the rear wheel to stop without thinking about it and without leaning forward.
Al
#19
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When the front brake is used correctly, skidding the rear will have exactly zero effect, because it will be slightly off the ground. The same usually applies on motorcycles. The front contact patch has enough purchase to cause the rear to lift off the ground, so you will flip before you skid the front if the brake is applied just right. Feel free to read up on this in any standard racing manual.
#20
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Originally Posted by jrowedc
When the front brake is used correctly, skidding the rear will have exactly zero effect, because it will be slightly off the ground. The same usually applies on motorcycles. The front contact patch has enough purchase to cause the rear to lift off the ground, so you will flip before you skid the front if the brake is applied just right. Feel free to read up on this in any standard racing manual.
Al
#22
Traffic shark

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Originally Posted by peripatetic
Nice one, sensei.
#23
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Lone Fixie
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From: Providence, RI
Bikes: Fixie/SS: Specialized "Langster", Hobo SS: Schwinn World Sport
I'm definately getting the hang of skidding. I don't do it for practicality, mainly for fun. I'm getting better, and it's helping me with resisting the pedals. Now I'm just trying to slow down using resistance (not breaks) smoothly. That one is a little harder.
#24
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From: L.A.
Originally Posted by jrowedc
When the front brake is used correctly, skidding the rear will have exactly zero effect, because it will be slightly off the ground. The same usually applies on motorcycles. The front contact patch has enough purchase to cause the rear to lift off the ground, so you will flip before you skid the front if the brake is applied just right. Feel free to read up on this in any standard racing manual.
"Just right" apparently means something completely different to you than it does to me.
Racing is not applicable to commuting, or riding for fun, if you're raising the rear while stopping with the front, i'd suggest you need to work on your fluidity. (if this is the case, it's hard to argue that your not riding extremly aggressively, and if thats your thing... please disregard).
As far as long smooth skids, they're simply not the best way to stop. (<-period)
If you're into skids (they are KOOL), do like others have mentioned and "Put the teabags on the counter", weight distibution is everything.
However, if you want to stop, use a front brake, or at lease learn to skip skid and work on your fluidity (i.e., always have a safe way out to save your ass for when you can't stop in time).
My $.02.
Carl.
#25
Originally Posted by zwxetlp
...if you want to stop, use a front brake, or at lease learn to skip skid and work on your fluidity (i.e., always have a safe way out to save your ass for when you can't stop in time).
My $.02.
Carl.
My $.02.
Carl.
fluidity is a desirable quality in general, too, i believe. not just for stopping a fixed gear bicycle.





