SS Road conversion
#1
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Atl.
Bikes: Novara MTN, Merlin Moots Fatbeat, Specialized Allez, Merlin Extralight, BH Ultralight RC
SS Road conversion
Looking to get into a drop bar road bike, single speed (non fixie) to have a dedicated Silver Comet bike. Have many questions but don't know how to ask them due to ignorance about this topic. Is it easier to convert/build a road bike frame, along with a chain tensioner, or go with a track/fixie type and have to worry about rear wheel alignment?
#2
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
Personally, I wouldn't want a tensioner. The whole idea of SS is simplicity and an efficient drive train. Aligning the rear wheel is very easy.
#3
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From: Atl.
Bikes: Novara MTN, Merlin Moots Fatbeat, Specialized Allez, Merlin Extralight, BH Ultralight RC
Are most SS bikes easy to change chainrings or cogs or do some come with a components that don't allow for that?
#4
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
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From: Looney Tunes, IL
Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!
Easy. Except for some of the cheapest bikes which come with cranks that do not allow chainring swaps. Rear cogs and freewheels are pretty much standard and can be swapped as needed.
#5
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From: Maryland
Bikes: Nashbar Race SIS, Spalding Road Step Through Single Speed, Kent Road Single Speed, 630 Cruiser, Fuji Odessa mountain bike
I've been trying different setups for a few years. If converting a road bike with a freehub I suppose an 8-10 speed freehub is preferable to an 11 speed freehub, though I don't know that from experience. You could use Shimano, Origin8, and Wheels Manufacturing for cogs and spacers. The threaded freewheel hubs are generally significantly longer in between flanges from what I've noticed. But, you said you weren't interested in fixies and you don't need to get into threaded hubs. If you are interested in track style riding then I think a threaded hub may be preferable.
You may need a vice, specific vice wrench, chain whip, lockring spanner, and cassette/freewheel removal tools, though maybe not all of them. I'm currently deciding between a Pedro's vice wrench and a chain whip style lockring tool, and would go for the vice tool if I was working.
You may need a vice, specific vice wrench, chain whip, lockring spanner, and cassette/freewheel removal tools, though maybe not all of them. I'm currently deciding between a Pedro's vice wrench and a chain whip style lockring tool, and would go for the vice tool if I was working.
#6
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From: Maryland
Bikes: Nashbar Race SIS, Spalding Road Step Through Single Speed, Kent Road Single Speed, 630 Cruiser, Fuji Odessa mountain bike
Trying to recall whether a rear hub ever takes a lockring spanner but not certain.
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