Help determining source of pain?
#1
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Joined: Jun 2018
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Help determining source of pain?
Hello,
I apologize for how basic this question is, but I'm looking for relief. I bought a State fixie several years ago and rode it faithfully every day for my commute — 6mi round trip. Then I made a mistake: I moved to Los Angeles. I've been out here for a couple of years, and I just decided to get back out there.
My commute now is about 15 miles round trip. The way in was fine, but near the end, I noticed my saddle (State factory) was beginning to hurt. By the time I hopped on my bike to come home, I could barely sit on it. The pain doesn't seem to quite be on the sit bones, but just in front of them—like on that really thick tendon that attaches to the sit bones.
I know my saddle is cheap, so I'm looking to buy a Cambium, since from what I can tell they're great for a commute like mine. My worry is, is my problem my posture instead of my saddle? Was a 7.5-mile one-way just too much for my body to handle for its first time out in a couple of years? What do you guys think?
I apologize for how basic this question is, but I'm looking for relief. I bought a State fixie several years ago and rode it faithfully every day for my commute — 6mi round trip. Then I made a mistake: I moved to Los Angeles. I've been out here for a couple of years, and I just decided to get back out there.
My commute now is about 15 miles round trip. The way in was fine, but near the end, I noticed my saddle (State factory) was beginning to hurt. By the time I hopped on my bike to come home, I could barely sit on it. The pain doesn't seem to quite be on the sit bones, but just in front of them—like on that really thick tendon that attaches to the sit bones.
I know my saddle is cheap, so I'm looking to buy a Cambium, since from what I can tell they're great for a commute like mine. My worry is, is my problem my posture instead of my saddle? Was a 7.5-mile one-way just too much for my body to handle for its first time out in a couple of years? What do you guys think?
#2
Not actually Tmonk




Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 17,246
Likes: 6,056
From: San Diego, CA
Bikes: road, track, mtb
start with shorter, easy rides and also look into the fit. Your saddle could be too low. There are resources for this online (Google) or you can pay for one at the bike shop.
__________________
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,152
Likes: 5,274
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Id only buy an expensive saddle if there was a good return policy. You are looking at the most critical issue on the bike, fit-wise, No saddle of any price, reputation or quality level is guaranteed to work for your butt.
Good shops are starting to get on board with letting you ride a saddle for long enough to know, then bringing it back for another or store credit if it doesn't pan out. I am a fan of looking at cheaper saddles of a manufacturer's line as often the basic shape doens't change much as the quality goes up. It is the shape (and getting that shape exactly where yhou need it on the bike) that is the key to saddle comfort. Once you have that $50 saddle that works and is dialed in, you can blow a future paycheck on that really nice top-of-the-line model and relegate this one to a box for your future beater.
I speak from experience. I used to race and loved a very common Italian racing seat but when I hit my 40s, it stopped working. I went to a bike shop and bought one of the new seats with full length groove. Last year's cheapest model; on sale for $39.99. Put it on my best bike, It was a breakthrough. Later I bought a high end one from the same company and put the cheapie on my winter bike where it stayed until I had worn through the cover, 10 years and 17,ooo miles later.
Ben
Good shops are starting to get on board with letting you ride a saddle for long enough to know, then bringing it back for another or store credit if it doesn't pan out. I am a fan of looking at cheaper saddles of a manufacturer's line as often the basic shape doens't change much as the quality goes up. It is the shape (and getting that shape exactly where yhou need it on the bike) that is the key to saddle comfort. Once you have that $50 saddle that works and is dialed in, you can blow a future paycheck on that really nice top-of-the-line model and relegate this one to a box for your future beater.
I speak from experience. I used to race and loved a very common Italian racing seat but when I hit my 40s, it stopped working. I went to a bike shop and bought one of the new seats with full length groove. Last year's cheapest model; on sale for $39.99. Put it on my best bike, It was a breakthrough. Later I bought a high end one from the same company and put the cheapie on my winter bike where it stayed until I had worn through the cover, 10 years and 17,ooo miles later.
Ben
#6
The adjustment of your seat's position (or other things on the bike), the model of seat you're using, or both of the above could be to blame. Sometimes, a setup will be fine for 5-ish miles, but no good when you increase to 2 or 3 times that distance.
I've learned that some very small adjustments can make quite a difference, a seat that works well for you on one bike might not on another, and you have to be patient and persistent. Don't give up or decide you're just not meant to ride that much. There's an arrangement that will work for you, but you'll never find it by asking questions online or looking at hundreds of seat pictures. You have to go through the trial and error process.
I've learned that some very small adjustments can make quite a difference, a seat that works well for you on one bike might not on another, and you have to be patient and persistent. Don't give up or decide you're just not meant to ride that much. There's an arrangement that will work for you, but you'll never find it by asking questions online or looking at hundreds of seat pictures. You have to go through the trial and error process.
#7
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 14,779
Likes: 743
From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
The way I read it, this was the OP's first ride after a long time off the bike.
If that is the case then saddle discomfort would not be out of the ordinary.
Again, if this is the case then I wouldn't change anything but would take some ibuprofen and get back on the bike as tolerated.
Always do the easy and cheap thing first. Advil is cheaper and easier than Brooks.
-Tim-
If that is the case then saddle discomfort would not be out of the ordinary.
Again, if this is the case then I wouldn't change anything but would take some ibuprofen and get back on the bike as tolerated.
Always do the easy and cheap thing first. Advil is cheaper and easier than Brooks.
-Tim-
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
You’ve been off the bike for years and then rode twice as far as you were used to and are wondering why your ass hurts?
Sure, you can spend $200 for a trendy saddle, or you can do something that will help regardless of saddle and put on some bike shorts.
Sure, you can spend $200 for a trendy saddle, or you can do something that will help regardless of saddle and put on some bike shorts.
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