Rear cog size dilemma
 

So I am running 42x15 in Seattle, which is good for an all purpose ride. However, sometimes I want to go fast, and 42x15 aint cuttin' it. I want to drop down to 14t or 13t for the days when I am riding on long, flat trails.

Will the difference between 14t and the current 15t really be that noticable? Should I take the plunge down to 13t, or is that just suicide? Arg what to do?!

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=118575

kind of reminds me of this thread. Apparently the skid patch decreases to one ( I assume this means point in the crank revoloution where you can apply force rearward on the pedal to slow down).

You will definitely notice the difference with 1 tooth. Who can see if it is fast ENOUGH for you, but personally I would go one tooth at a time and see if you like it.

you assume incorrectly.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...t=skid+patches

I'm still reading this.

EDIT: It's kind of funny cuz Bianchi and Specilaized as far as I know put 48-16 gearing on their bikes. Is this not 1 skid patch.......oh well.

Original poster here. Since I have a one piece crank, I am not doing much backpedaing. I will stick to the front brake. I just want more speed is all. If I will truly see a difference with 14t vs 15t I will go that route.

Here's a pic of my baby, 'Brown Thunder'. Hehehahahoho! Check it out!

http://www.yesalbum.com/v001/protagh...wn_thunder.jpg

yeah, 1 "skid patch", unless you can skid with both feet.
48-16 gives ~79 inches which is a pretty standard all-around velodrome gear. key word being velodrome - you don't exactly see trackies skidding around do you?

That bike is wicked sick. I'm a fan.

It is a 1970 Schwinn Suburban. Stock handlebars, grips, seat, rack, one piece crank, pedals, brake lever, and brake. The only new stuff is the wheels (Surly hub/MA3 rear & 105 hub/MA2 front), the chainring (Wald 42t OPC 1/8"), the cog (Dura Ace 15t) and the chain (bmx 1/8"). You gotta love my orange tires! Bwahaha!