So, I'm trying out big ol' pedal straps on my current build for the first time, instead of going the toe-cage route like on my other bikes. I fitted them to my foot (with the shoes I will wear 99.9% of the time while riding this bike) while I was standing in the garage so they were snug and my foot wasn't sliding around too much. But my issue is getting my feet inside when actually riding. Today was my first and only time so far, but i had to reach down and pull the straps up to the tops of my feet while pedaling because I couldn't get my toes underneath because they were flopping forward too much.
They are cheaper straps from Amazon; are more expensive straps stiffer so they don't flop?

Appreciate any tricks y'all can share.

Do you mean the thicker velcro straps usually paired with BMX pedals? I've never had an issue with those flopping down, but could just be a brand issue. Curious what brand off amazon?

Personally, I prefer clips and straps, always reliable and you can tighten and loosen them while on the bike if necessary.

These are the straps: Outgeek 1 Pair Bike Pedal Straps Pedal Toe Clips Straps Tape for Fixed Gear Bike (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749KLN21..._8Rc0DbS8E0M1R

Yeah they’re cheap but had decent rating. Didn’t want to blow my wad on something I wasn’t sure I would like. I will say I did love how pedaling felt once my feet were in snug and I was going.

I have them in these pedals: Origin8 Pro Track Light Pedals, 9/16", Annodized Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MKFOSO..._wUc0DbNBF4661
mans while I know those are the best pedals to use with these straps (I have them on another bike with cages) the straps were a bit of an afterthought but I’m not sure it’s the pedals that are the problem.

Could be a combination of both. Looks like the narrow width of the pedal (where the straps thread through) is designed to be smaller than the base of your foot, this might leave more play in the bottom of the strap that threads through the holes causing it to sag when unsupported by your foot. Usually when you pair those types of velcro straps with wider BMX pedals the width of the pedal kind of supports the arch of the strap. Not sure if I am explaining it clearly, but I think it might just be the looseness of the bottom of the straps, and the narrow width of the pedal when the straps thread through.

My first pair of straps were Holdfasts which were good quality but would occasionally get smashed down if I stepped on them and then I'd have to reach down and pop them out.

Switched to YNOTs which are much stiffer and never have issues. Pair these with some plastic BMX pedals and you are good to go.

The pedals you have are a better pairing with traditional straps and clips. I'd either swap the whole setup for some BMX pedals and YNOTs or get traditional clips and straps for your current pedals. Don't think you will have good results with mixing the two.

Thanks for the suggestion. These straps look great. It's pretty much what I've been looking for - especially with multiple available colors.
Do you think they'd pair well with either of these pedals, and if so which one do you think would be best?
Rascal Platform
https://www.raceface.com/products/de...chester-pedals

Personally I'd go for something more like this:

https://shop.odysseybmx.com/products/twisted-pc-pedals

You don't really need (or want) very aggressive pins with the straps. You can use whatever you want but they work well with cheap, plastic BMX pedals. Or if you want fancier:

https://rideissi.com/pedals/thump

I've been using straps on platform pedals for quite a while, both touring and urban riding. The forward flopping is annoying to be sure. But I've found that it can be minimized on low profile pedals with the narrowest height slots through which your small straps pass. On pedals with a taller profile and higher slots there's not much to hold the straps up. For an example pedal look at a VP-501. They are kind of heavy but less than $20 on ebay,
Tom

Check out Redline Monster platforms.. they come in polycarbonate or alloy.. low profile, sealed bearing, and lightweight

If you want a good selection of pedals go somewhere like Dan's Comp:

Dan's Comp Pedals

They are all kinda the same but subtly different. I like concave. I have some old Haro Small Blocks that they don't make anymore that I love

I have a pair from the pure fix brand and they are only a bit more money but very substantial and have had no problems getting my feet in them, i have tried cheaper ones that flop around and they are very annoying.

.... i have been trying ORIGIN 8 straps with some BLACK OPs pedals that I took off my Monocog. easy to install. stiff enuf to hold their shape. i'm 67.5 gear inches on a Wabi. still iffy it i want to trade the benefits of retention for the loss of platform freedom

I am on the same boat as OP.

I use similar straps Pedal straps like OP use, its snug fit if I fit it at stop. But when I put it out and try to put it in during riding. Its extremely awkward.

Culprit probably due to how aggressive of pedal pins. I have like 10 pins each side of pedal. Even without straps, its very sticky to my shoes and almost no slippage.

Seriously, save yourself some frustration and buy some YNOTs. Have a few less lattes/beers this week and you'll save the $50 for them. Well worth it.

Or continue having to reach down and uncrush your straps and awkwardly try to shoehorn your foot in while riding a fixed gear with the pedals rotating....

I've used Holdfasts with both my fixies - older with Pr1mo Tenderizers that are a little tougher to get into; new bike has DMR Vault Brendog platforms with removable pins (also comes with extra pins and a couple little wrenches to work the pins) and taking out the front four pins on the entry side made a world of difference quickly getting in.

Also removed all the pins except the front two from the alternate side to reduce pedal impact - having the two pins helps hooking tip of shoe to flop into and gives emergency traction in a "whoops, I missed" scenario. After two weeks, getting in faster w the DMRs than with 10yrs+ on the Pr1mos...

FWIW shoes make a difference for me too, laces & bikes always freak me out anyway but especially jamming them into velcro straps. Chrome slip-ons have no laces, easily wedgeable silhouette, hard plastic shank through the midsole that just make them an all around solid bike shoe, and hardwearing cordura for durability and water resistance. Older iteration of their slip-on had been my go-to for a long time and I still prefer the older aesthetic but their newer version is a really excellent bike shoe and the look has grown on me.

Good idea. So its pins that cause this awkward situations everytime I try straps on. My pedals have like 12 pins each lol its damn sticky. However, I have idea now how to workaround this... pedals have 2 face with 12 pins each (24 pins total) so I should remove one.

I think the idea with those straps is that they're supposed to go from the back inner corner or the pedal to the front outer corner. That way, you can have them sort of loose, but they will act sort of a like a poor man's SPD. By that I mean you can take your foot in and out perpendicular to the strap (i.e. heel out), but when you twist your foot inwards to use the pedals they will magically be tighter.

Pins, obviously makes this more difficult, but if you have (good) pins, you don't really need the straps, imo.

My experience (over 40 years of starting up in traffic on fix gears) is that shoes that slid easily over the pedal and under the straps make a huge difference. How you get there with pins I have no idea. (I have done most of my miles using traditional road cycling shoes and aluminum slotted cleats but I also used LL Bean Ranger Oxford shoes with smooth rubber soles for years until they discontinued them. (If I learned they were in production under another name, I'd buy them in a flash. But when LL Bean went to only a lugged hiking sole for those shoes. I tried one ride and after one attempted start-up, took off the brand new shoes and sent them back.)

All of my miles have been with toeclips and straps I've never seen reason to change. I also seek out pedals with nice big pickup tabs or make my own and add them.

I usually try and ride in shoes without lugged soles. Also plastic BMX pedals work well because even if they have pins, they usually aren't all that sticky and they wear down.

The classic combo is wide velcro straps and Odyssey Twisted PC pedals, I've got some Haro Smallblock pedals that have few pins and a deep concave and they work great.

Basically any $10 plastic BMX pedals will work probably better than fancy, grippy aluminum ones.

True, but if he has pedals with metal pins, most of those pedals have pins that are screwed in, so he could probably either remove them entirely, or screw them "in" so they don't grip as much (say, 1mm over the surface).