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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

2006 Motobecane Messenger

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Old 07-10-05 | 06:37 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 53-11_alltheway
Nice frame. I was impressed with the photos you posted of the silver one. I kind of wish you made one that was a cross of the mode G and F. Steeper seat tube and higher BB with 120mm drop-outs.

I think the model G would make a nice single speed, but I'm a little worried about the low BB.

Second that!!!

Nice looking frame
would definitely but it
if it had track geometry
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Old 07-11-05 | 12:26 AM
  #52  
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From: ATL

Bikes: Univega - fixed conversion

ok ... so, i'm not trying to add to the debate so much as trying to help folks out who come here and search the forum for the new Motob./mercier/windsor/raliegh (which all seem to be about the same) for street - not track - use.

find a 70s/80 japanese bike with working components (headset, cranks ...) at a thrift store/yardsale/craigslist for $50 (give or take $20) and spend $200 on a good set of single speed wheels (from IRO or wherever) and get on the road with a perfectly functional cheap bike. (if you are really worried about pedal scrape, get a new set of 165 bmx cranks for about $30 - I ride fixed on a road conversion with 170s and have never had to worry about this.)

there are as many other ways to do this as there are bikes out there but i swear this is the easiest in most cases.

if you really like it, buy a fancy frame and move the parts over. if you still really like it, upgrade the parts as the need and cash arises. i'm just not sure if anything on this new crop of bikes is really worth the investment except maybe the ease of getting on the road immediately.
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Old 07-11-05 | 12:49 AM
  #53  
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From: Might as well be underwater because I make less drag than a torpedoE (no aero bars here though)
Originally Posted by Slartibartfast

if you really like it, buy a fancy frame and move the parts over.
Only problem I see with this is that dedicated track frames seem to take 120mm hubs.

A road conversion unless it is a really early frame is going to take a 126mm or 130mm hub.
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Old 07-11-05 | 01:51 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 53-11_alltheway
Only problem I see with this is that dedicated track frames seem to take 120mm hubs.

A road conversion unless it is a really early frame is going to take a 126mm or 130mm hub.
hubs can be de-spaced.
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Old 07-11-05 | 01:57 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by phidauex
There are indeed bad cogs! The threads on the cog are the only thing coupling the drivetrain to the 'go' of the bike, and if it isn't in good shape, it will cause trouble. If the threaded region isn't deep enough, lockrings won't get enough purchase, and you could slip a cog under rapid decelleration, the force of which can strip threads off your hub. A hub with stripped threads is a useless hub. To replace it, you need to rebuild the wheel, which, unless you do it yourself, probably means new spokes and a new rim as well, basically a whole wheel.

Poorly tapped threads can also chew up your hubs soft aluminum threads, which will make stripping more likely later on.

Lots of people run into these problems here, its not fantasy. Its the reason places like Harris don't sell cheap cogs anymore, they are a false economy. A cog is a simple, but absolutely critical component.

peace,
sam
I have observed that nearly all cog/hub thread/lockring failure is due to improper installation. Then improper use; like skidding/braking with a loose cog. Periodic maintenance is a requirement and leads to component failure if not observed.
 
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Old 07-11-05 | 03:34 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by eat_raw
Second that!!!

Nice looking frame would definitely buy it if it had track geometry
Thanks. We try to make good stuff.

Most of us are dedicated SS/FG riders w/ lots of experience w/ urban cycling. We know this stuff pretty well. I think it shows in our products.

We looked at user feedback and this is what the majority asked for.

We appreciate that everyone wants something different. With luck, some day there will be dozens of different configurations available and there will be something for everyone.

'Til then, keep it off the sidewalks and please watch out for cars.

Unless you don't want to.
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Old 07-11-05 | 03:38 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Slartibartfast
ok ... so, i'm not trying to add to the debate so much as trying to help folks out who come here and search the forum for the new Motob./mercier/windsor/raliegh (which all seem to be about the same) for street - not track - use.

find a 70s/80 japanese bike with working components (headset, cranks ...) at a thrift store/yardsale/craigslist for $50 (give or take $20) and spend $200 on a good set of single speed wheels (from IRO or wherever) and get on the road with a perfectly functional cheap bike. (if you are really worried about pedal scrape, get a new set of 165 bmx cranks for about $30 - I ride fixed on a road conversion with 170s and have never had to worry about this.)

there are as many other ways to do this as there are bikes out there but i swear this is the easiest in most cases.

if you really like it, buy a fancy frame and move the parts over. if you still really like it, upgrade the parts as the need and cash arises. i'm just not sure if anything on this new crop of bikes is really worth the investment except maybe the ease of getting on the road immediately.

This is a very sensible posting.

Get good wheels and work from there.

Around here we call it 'wheel krack'. It's that feeling you get when you get some REALLY good wheels.

It's usually preceeded by The Stupid Dance, the dance you do while you wait for your wheel krack.
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Old 07-11-05 | 03:47 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by 53-11_alltheway
Nice frame. I was impressed with the photos you posted of the silver one. I kind of wish you made one that was a cross of the mode G and F. Steeper seat tube and higher BB with 120mm drop-outs.

I think the model G would make a nice single speed, but I'm a little worried about the low BB.

The F was my baby. It was the frame that I always wanted. It's what I ride. I think it's perfect, right down the the 135mm spacing. I understand 120, but wider flanges make stronger wheels and a 52mm chain line is a no-brainer. And I think 1 1/8" threadless is way more durable.

But lots of people wanted low BBs and relaxed goemetry and and 120 and 1" steering. So we gave them what they asked for.

I wonder if the Motobecane people sweat this stuff? I'd sure like to hear from them.
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Old 07-11-05 | 11:37 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Kogswell
The F was my baby. It was the frame that I always wanted. It's what I ride. I think it's perfect, right down the the 135mm spacing. I understand 120, but wider flanges make stronger wheels and a 52mm chain line is a no-brainer. And I think 1 1/8" threadless is way more durable.

But lots of people wanted low BBs and relaxed goemetry and and 120 and 1" steering. So we gave them what they asked for.

I wonder if the Motobecane people sweat this stuff? I'd sure like to hear from them.
In the case of my Motobecane Fantom Cross it is nearly identical to the Fuji Cross Comp. It may be assumed that many use Fuji engineering expertise and geometry and slap whatever label on the bicycle for image appeal. As stated I knew exactly what I was buying and selected the Motobecane label and also to save $200 off the Fuji price.
 
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Old 07-15-05 | 11:40 AM
  #60  
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The Motobecane Messenger: To beat a dead horse...

https://www.answers.com/topic/track-bicycle

"the geometry of a track frame differs from that of a road frame, and many frames are designed for specific track events (an omnium frame refers to one that is designed for general track racing). Those attributes common to most track frames include a higher bottom bracket for additional cornering clearance, steeper seat tube for a more forward and aerodynamic position, steeper head tube for more responsive steering, and greater fork rake for more stable steering at high speeds."


This is not track geometry, it's a cheap-o road frame with the cheapest possible components and horizontal dropouts. It's designed to appeal to urban-cyclist-messenger-wannabes just dying to spend daddy's money on a "messenger" bike so they too can be hip - or at least think they are. I think the fact that it has "Messenger" all over it is really cheesey but, aside from costing too much, could be the best strategy for someone like me who lives in DC where the messenger vibe, and corresponding wannabe community, is thriving. See - nobody's gonna steal this bike...it's not cool - which is the one thing about it that I like. Hell - I'd leave the stickers on and try to break wind in the direction of every lame-o I fly by, while passing on the wrong side.

"The bike is brand new and I think fairly priced in a bike shop for $795 [IN FACT, MOST BIKES WITH THIS EQUIPMENT WOULD COST MORE IN BIKE SHOPS]"

Yeah - don't believe everything you hear...if the components are so high-end how come the seller doesn't name them? BS!

On the topic of the wannabes - I'd like to make an appeal. If you see an old Peugeot or equivalent old frame for sale online, with scratches all over it, don't run the bids up or pay too much...use a little restraint. For the true urban rider that everyone's so desperately trying to emulate, the whole point of going the fixie route is to wind up with a solid ride with minimal desirable components and to save money by building up the components yourself. You wannabes are paying too much, in your frenzied pursuit of cool, and ruin the chances for the rest of us to get a decent deal! This Motobecane is a result of people like you. The seller is delusional when they say it would retail for $795...it could be true but what idiot would actually buy it for that and furthermore it isn't even worth the $350 they want for it because as mentioned earlier the components are worth nothing and the frame is worth nothing - these bikes are $200 bikes at best, and that would only be because of demand...I'll bet the seller doesn't pay much more than $100 a piece for them - if that. The seller knows they will be able to sell it for way more than it's worth because there's hundreds of fixed-gear idiots out there willing to pay. It's the same thing with the Bianchi Pistas - since it says Bianchi on the sticker everyone gets a stiffy...they're certainly not worth more than you'd pay for one at a dealer...c'mon people - use your brains! Let's put an end to $600 listings for a stock bike that you can buy new for $500-$550 at your local bike shop WITHOUT shipping charges! A used stock Pista should never go for more than $350...dealers get them for less than that new yet I see used ones going for upwards of $500 on Ebay all the time.

I'd buy one of these Motobecanes for $50 after it'd been dragged under a Metrobus for a couple blocks - otherwise I'd get the most beat up frame I could find and put the crappiest looking decent components I could scrounge on it for as little $ as possible...then I'd go have a beer or two across town without worrying about anyone jacking my parts. For a training ride I'd go the route of a chromed out old Japanese or Euro frame, like others have said, and get nicer old components which for me would be a liability if I wanted to ride to work or lock up on the street while I went somewhere.
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Old 07-15-05 | 11:55 AM
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From: Might as well be underwater because I make less drag than a torpedoE (no aero bars here though)
Originally Posted by antioed
https://www.answers.com/topic/track-bicycle

"the geometry of a track frame differs from that of a road frame, and many frames are designed for specific track events (an omnium frame refers to one that is designed for general track racing). Those attributes common to most track frames include a higher bottom bracket for additional cornering clearance, steeper seat tube for a more forward and aerodynamic position, steeper head tube for more responsive steering, and greater fork rake for more stable steering at high speeds."


It's the same thing with the Bianchi Pistas - since it says Bianchi on the sticker everyone gets a stiffy...they're certainly not worth more than you'd pay for one at a dealer...c'mon people - use your brains! Let's put an end to $600 listings for a stock bike that you can buy new for $500-$550 at your local bike shop WITHOUT shipping charges! A used stock Pista should never go for more than $350...dealers get them for less than that new yet I see used ones going for upwards of $500 on Ebay all the time.

I'd buy one of these Motobecanes for $50 after it'd been dragged under a Metrobus for a couple blocks - otherwise I'd get the most beat up frame I could find and put the crappiest looking decent components I could scrounge on it for as little $ as possible...then I'd go have a beer or two across town without worrying about anyone jacking my parts. For a training ride I'd go the route of a chromed out old Japanese or Euro frame, like others have said, and get nicer old components which for me would be a liability if I wanted to ride to work or lock up on the street while I went somewhere.
I've mentioned this before but Ebay is full of ******** bidders. THe market for used road components is full of people paying more money for a used ultegra short cage rear derailleur (example) than they could buy a new one at performance with 20% discount coupon.

The Pista is different than this motobecane because it has real track geometry (steep seat tube angle, short chainstays, etc). You are right though you see people list them at full price for new when they are used.

THe only problem I see with road conversions if they are anything like my SLX lugged steel Bianchi road bike that they flex too much.
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Old 07-16-05 | 03:50 AM
  #62  
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he's right. the mercier i bought is a blast to ride....but all bearings had to be packed on setup, and gearing had to be changed to something resonable, brake added and tires replaced, but it is a blast and was cheap. what the heck. "lifetime warrenty" has more to do with life of the company than anything else and shipping and handling and labor at lbs can be all yours.
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Old 07-16-05 | 10:09 AM
  #63  
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From: Might as well be underwater because I make less drag than a torpedoE (no aero bars here though)
Originally Posted by iansir
I don't really care about all the people who hate this bike, it's not a terrible deal. It's exactly the same as a Fuji Track. I got mine yesterday and put it together. The ebay seller actually has great service - the seat bolt fell out of the handle in the box and she offered to ship another one. I had another thing I wasn't totally happy about and she offered to have UPS pick it up free of charge to return it. Can't complain about that.

The bike itself looks just fine. I thought it was the same frame as the Fuji Track before I bought it, and in a later email the seller said it was the same frame (I wasn't even asking about it). So what if bearings give out after 6 months - by then I'll be sure enough if I like/dislike fixed riding I'll want to upgrade or dump the bike either way.

Yeah the paint job blows, but I'm stripping that today.
I think the bike would look good with the decals off. Tells us how easy is to remove them, Heck, I might be seriously buying this bike if it is the same as the fuji (in the road forum many people claim the motobecanes are fujis as well)

What color did you get? (I'm sorry did you say you are stripping the paint too, or just decals?)

Last edited by 53-11_alltheway; 07-16-05 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 07-16-05 | 10:27 AM
  #64  
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From: Might as well be underwater because I make less drag than a torpedoE (no aero bars here though)
Originally Posted by antioed


This is not track geometry, it's a cheap-o road frame with the cheapest possible components and horizontal dropouts. It's designed to appeal to urban-cyclist-messenger-wannabes just dying to spend daddy's money on a "messenger" bike so they too can be hip - or at least think they are.
I just checked the geometry of the Fuji track and it's in fact road geometry like this bike. See here https://www.fujibikes.com/2005/bikes.asp?id=18# 73 degree seat tube angle in my size.

So this motobecane geometry is not different than a Fuji track. Both are road.

Last edited by 53-11_alltheway; 07-16-05 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 07-16-05 | 11:24 AM
  #65  
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From: Might as well be underwater because I make less drag than a torpedoE (no aero bars here though)
Originally Posted by iansir
I got blue and it looks pretty nice. Doesn't look like the decals are easy to remove at all. I'm just going for a complete strip to make it easy...also to help erase from my memory buying a sketchy bike off ebay. I'm pretty pleased with it for the price though. I'll post again to say how the stripping went when I'm done.
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/92057-stripped-chrome-pista.html

That thread may help. I'd very interested to see your bike sans decals.
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