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Cog position in dropout

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Cog position in dropout

Old 01-11-24, 07:21 PM
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Cog position in dropout

Does my cog look too far back in the dropout? This one is a 17t, the 16t I run sits even closer to the end of the dropout. Should I replace a full link in the chain with a half link?


Dave
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Old 01-11-24, 08:57 PM
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I don't see anything wrong with what you've got. You could go another 1/4" back with no issues if you wanted. (Sounds like you already have with the 16 tooth cog.) Possible considerations - you may prefer a more compact rear end to the bike that will skid less when climbing out of the saddle on slippery surfaces. Or like the quicker feel when cornering with the wheel forward. On the other hand, you may like the generous clearance between tire and seat tube and the ease of getting the chain off to pull the wheel out.

The bike absolutely doesn't care where that wheel sits as long as you have enough track end to clamp properly with the nut.

I'd probably remove a "link" (inner and outer pair) and slide the wheel forward 1/2" - unless I had thoughts of also using a bigger cog to go up a hill. There are 1/2 links (male at one end, female at the other) that shorten the chain just 1/2" and move the hub 1/4". As far as I know, these are all for 1/8" chain, not 3/32". I cannot tell which chain you are running.
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Old 01-11-24, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
I don't see anything wrong with what you've got. You could go another 1/4" back with no issues if you wanted. (Sounds like you already have with the 16 tooth cog.) Possible considerations - you may prefer a more compact rear end to the bike that will skid less when climbing out of the saddle on slippery surfaces. Or like the quicker feel when cornering with the wheel forward. On the other hand, you may like the generous clearance between tire and seat tube and the ease of getting the chain off to pull the wheel out.

The bike absolutely doesn't care where that wheel sits as long as you have enough track end to clamp properly with the nut.

I'd probably remove a "link" (inner and outer pair) and slide the wheel forward 1/2" - unless I had thoughts of also using a bigger cog to go up a hill. There are 1/2 links (male at one end, female at the other) that shorten the chain just 1/2" and move the hub 1/4". As far as I know, these are all for 1/8" chain, not 3/32". I cannot tell which chain you are running.
Thanks, wanted to make sure my setup was still safe. Been running that 17t for a while, don't really have the power to push the 16t up hills at the moment. I think I want a quicker feel on cornering, will probably swap out a full link with a half link. Does it matter where the half link is on the chain? (Does it need to be connected to the quick link, or is that just my OCD?). Lol. Think I can still swap between the 16 and 17 with the half link? I don't swap very often, but options are always welcome.

It was interesting about what you said with having the wheel further in on the track end. I hadn't really thought about how it was effectively changing the wheelbase.

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Old 01-11-24, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bonsai171
Thanks, wanted to make sure my setup was still safe. Been running that 17t for a while, don't really have the power to push the 16t up hills at the moment. I think I want a quicker feel on cornering, will probably swap out a full link with a half link. Does it matter where the half link is on the chain? (Does it need to be connected to the quick link, or is that just my OCD?). Lol. Think I can still swap between the 16 and 17 with the half link? I don't swap very often, but options are always welcome.

It was interesting about what you said with having the wheel further in on the track end. I hadn't really thought about how it was effectively changing the wheelbase.

Dave
Doesn't matter at all where you put it. I'd keep it away from the quicklink simply to avoid re-driving the same link many times. I don't worry about more than once but I do my best to keep the number down.

Pulling the wheel forward won't have any issues when you swap to the 16. You've just taken further from the end. It's on the 17 that a too short chain makes getting enough slack to derail the chain and get the wheel out harder. (If you shorten the chain, try removing the wheel before you go for that ride. Otherwise you might find you cannot remove the wheel to repair a flat without the chain riveter you left at home.)
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Old 02-20-24, 01:24 AM
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Shouldn't be in the middle of the fork ends/dropouts?
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Old 02-20-24, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mauin1x
Shouldn't be in the middle of the fork ends/dropouts?
Depends upon if you want to "change gears." If you have a flip flop hub and use different size cogs or freewheels, you need to account for the space to take up the chain slack or to give enough slack, respectively.
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Old 02-28-24, 06:29 PM
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I don't see an answer to what chain width you're running.
If you use 1/8" chain, Izumi makes a half link with a screw nut attachment.
You could dispense with the quick link.
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Old 02-28-24, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bironi
I don't see an answer to what chain width you're running.
If you use 1/8" chain, Izumi makes a half link with a screw nut attachment.
You could dispense with the quick link.
And if you want a half link for 1/8" chain anywhere in the country, go to a hardware store. 1/2" x 1/8" chain is an industrial standard. The pin might be clevis and cotter like you would see on a sailboat but it will both work and be even more secure.
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Old 02-28-24, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
And if you want a half link for 1/8" chain anywhere in the country, go to a hardware store. 1/2" x 1/8" chain is an industrial standard. The pin might be clevis and cotter like you would see on a sailboat but it will both work and be even more secure.
I've seen that option mentioned before.
Never tried it because the hardware store variety looked so clumsy.
Functional, yeah, cheap, yeah, aesthetic, no.
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Old 02-29-24, 10:07 AM
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The axle position in the dropout is determined by the chain and your gearing. As long as the axle is fully within the slot (and yours is), it'll be fine. If you change your gearing to a smaller sprocket and/or chainring, you'll need to shorten the chain.
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