Can someone provide a link to these said pedals?

I'd just like to say, "CARBON FIBER KICKED STEEL'S ASS!"

*ducks and runs for cover*

this has got to be up there with one of the funniest threads i have ever read...

vomitron,
this now moves you onto my list of 5 bikeforums people i'd like to meet :D




i just hope you stick around long enough for that to become a reality...

Whatever naysayers. I think the expander wedge seatpost is fine. In fact, I've seen a Peugeot frame made for such a seatpost. It had no seatpost clamp.

So yeah, I'd say go with it. What's the worst that could happen? The frame breaks again? Either your frame is trash, or you use the expander wedge and break your frame and your frame is trash, or you use the expander wedge and your frame is perfectly fine. Do it.

or the frame breaks and you bust your other thumb.. and you know what a human is without opposable thumbs.... a complaining monkey

Click the words 'bicycle inventor' in the first post :rolleyes:

Pray tell, why do you think it is one of the dumbest systems. It might have issues with lateral stiffnes putting all the stress on this new cleat and a sole of the shoe, the shoes do not seem walkable, but it does effectively lower your BB without reducing ground clerance.

Since when did you all become so bitter and jaded?

"Since when did you all become so bitter and jaded?"

three weeks ago...began the winter job to compliment my regular full-time job...

October 3rd, 1989.

and I'm a little concerned that someone from my hometown would troll like this!

and in reality, the statement is fundamentally wrong. All that it shows is that a steel tube with a carbon tube inside is stronger than the same steel tube without a carbon tube inside...big shock there.

You can walk just fine in the shoes with the cleats, its made od Ti, unless you are trying to fred flintstone the bike to a screeching halt then you are good.

Yeah, the cleat is "walkable." I mean, it's not walkable like say, a mountain bike shoe, but it's far more walkable than any other road cleat.

As for the seat post, ya'll sound like a bunch of pansies. Have you seen my fscking rear wheel?!? IT'S MADE OF CARBON FIBER, AND HAS BEEN KNOWN TO RANDOMLY EXPLODE.

I obviously have absolutely no regard for my own life.

It's been said that many pro racers choose one size smaller frame then adjust the seat post to fit them, which is more than Max for better aero position. Even then, it's not common that the top of seat tube breaks. I have, however, heard of stories the seat post broke.

From the reason above, I think the frame was defective to begin with.

Hey, anyone knows how that pedal works? Can you pull upwards in it? The system looks like the cleat just slides onto that button thingy from above, no retention...
If there is proper retention, it's not too hard to get out of (I can't see how these two could be achieved) and they managed to make the cleat light and stiff, it's a great improvement. If it's really stiffer than traditional pedals and lowers stacking height by an inch, it'll take the road racing world by storm. (Errr, except that the inventor would need a contract with a pro team to make the amateurs believe it's really that good.)

You keep saying this like its cool to be wreckless with you life. I call dibs on your wetsuit and surfboard...and laptop!

No way. No pro would do such a silly thing as that. Forget the max line, it's irrelevant. The seatpost didn't reach down to the level of the top tube. All the stress was on the seat tube extension, right above a ****ing WELD. Any frame will brake if you do that.

If you pull the seatpost out an inch further than the max line on a normal frame, you're still safe, as the seatpost collar is further down, and the seatpost enters the frame properly. Not on this frame.

To try to add something constructive here:

I don't like the looks of that cob job any more than I like the looks of the original too short seatpost. If you need more seatpost extension, buy a longer seatpost. BUT if you want a cob job that might actually hold your reckless ass, why not insert a thin steel tube into the original seat tube like a patch. It should be the length of the broken peice, plus extend at least 4 inches into the remaining seat tube. then have all 3 pieces brazed together, and slot the top of the new tube to match the seat collar, then use a thinner diamerter seat post that fits the new thicker seat tube. Make sure this one is long enough. It will be heavier than the original frame, but should be lighter and stronger than that crazy seatpost you've got now.

there are seatposts that are made for certain tubesets (i'm thinking certain vitus frames) that are expanding wedge by design... and really damn hard/costly to find. there is no inherent problem with it. of course, you probably want more than an inch or two of the seatpost into the tube.

yea the only thing that raises my eyebrows in this story is that your lbs just had one right there. i was scouring for one once, to no avail.

1986 - Whiskeytown, Cindy Whitehead breaks her seatpost and rides over 40 miles to win.

Let's all get rid of our seatposts immediately.

He didn't. It had to be machined specially for him. Took like five months to come up with that as a solution and have it made. It was far from an overnight job.

WOW REALLY? I woulda just fixed the frame, or replaced it.

Well, it is a unique one of a kind olympic track frame, so I'm not sure if its replacable or not. Fixing it is a more expensive option, not open to those of us that work with children.

And fixed via the bumbike method.