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Phil track cogs look like crap

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Old 10-20-05, 06:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by zerobug
Not to sound critical but... how?
on a brand new build, brand new drivetrain i had to swap out an EAI 14T cog for a dura-ace 14T. the EAI was running extremely rough, which was odd to me bc ive used them before with no problems. putting the dura-ace on solved the prob, sometimes you can feel the difference.
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Old 10-20-05, 07:03 PM
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...and sometimes the newbies can only BS. Hey zerobug, I'd love to entertain you with how the grinding of the EAI with my setup was annoying me so much that I tried something different and the grinding ceased, but I'll spare everyone the details.

Not to sound critical, but if you don't believe me then I guess I'm full of ****.
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Old 10-20-05, 07:05 PM
  #28  
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EAI cogs tend to be wider than many cogs, which means that they can be a little less tolerant of sub-perfect chainlines -- that is, they'll be louder.

as for phil wood, it seems to me that, while they are generally good quality products, they're at least 30%+ hype. pure ****ing hype. **** phil.
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Old 10-20-05, 07:09 PM
  #29  
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****! ********! ****. ****!
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Old 10-20-05, 07:20 PM
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first the bottom bracket thread now this one, i think its hate on phil wood week! el oh el
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Old 10-20-05, 07:27 PM
  #31  
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to quote tip, stop hatin'. their products rock, and they've been nothing but supportive of the community here in sf.

call me a fanboy if you want, and you'll be right. i likes the products and the company, and brent is a great guy. (i say that like i've met him. i haven't, just a few emails, but he was really nice when i asked them for prizes for a race here, and he kicked down handsomely).
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Old 10-20-05, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by spike lateen
Not to sound critical, but if you don't believe me then I guess I'm full of ****.
Whoa, whoa there. I didn't mean to call you out. You stated that you could feel a difference but didn't state what that difference was... I just wondered. To bring up a tired old chiche, don't have a cow.
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Old 10-20-05, 07:57 PM
  #33  
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every one is talking about the 3/32's right? or have the 1/8's hit the street? Only see the 3/32's on the site..
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Old 10-20-05, 08:07 PM
  #34  
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i'm talking about the 1/8", so far only in 16t.
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Old 10-20-05, 08:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dolface
(i say that like i've met him. i haven't, just a few emails, but he was really nice when i asked them for prizes for a race here, and he kicked down handsomely).
When I had those German friends stranded in SF, you and Brent were the only people who offered to help.

Big ups to both of you.

m.
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Old 10-20-05, 08:17 PM
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hells yeah, getting so close, any idea when a 17 might be emerging?

edit: that's 17t x 1/8
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Old 10-20-05, 11:04 PM
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i have an 18 tooth 1/8 pitch phil cog. runs beautifully and personally i like the reflective surface. keep checking your lbs for the higher tooth cogs!

on an unrelated note (sorry!), has anyone ever stripped a locknut on a phil hub? i was tightening my hub today on the non drive side and the allen wrench slipped outta my hand. when i went to tighten it i felt that the wrench doesn't fit so snugly anymore. it doesn't look stripped but i'm worried. someone help!
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Old 10-20-05, 11:09 PM
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what does the wrench look like?
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Old 10-21-05, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by zip22
what does the wrench look like?
the wrench looks very slightly chipped in on the top
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Old 10-21-05, 02:02 AM
  #40  
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17t in 1/8 is already out. That's what I have now. Seems like old Phil is pulling an old Apple move with pushing stuff out either too soon or releasing certain things in certain places.

The only cow I had was the one I ate tonight after chasing Judah up and down hills in the city.
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Old 10-21-05, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by onlythebest
on an unrelated note (sorry!), has anyone ever stripped a locknut on a phil hub? i was tightening my hub today on the non drive side and the allen wrench slipped outta my hand. when i went to tighten it i felt that the wrench doesn't fit so snugly anymore. it doesn't look stripped but i'm worried. someone help!
Email me your address to brent at philwood dot com and I'll send you some new bolts.
If the wrench is iffy replace it.

More 1/8 x16,17, and 19 will ship next week. We're making them as fast as we can and the shops that had backorders in are getting them first.

We could have very easily made $20 black cromo cogs just like everyone else. We did in a couple sizes and they were fine, but then why would anyone want them over the others? We were happy with the tooth profile and width but not happy offering something just like the EAI.
So we started testing the stainless, some in house and a few under riders we know in NYC, MN, and OR. They were not finished like the current ones but the main concern was could we do a stainless cogs that was as durable as a good cromo cog. After a lot of testing with heat treating and material we determined we could.

The finish on the backside is the color after the final heat treat. We thought it looked good with just the front face polished and the backside raw. Some agree and some don't, that is fine. More polishing would mean more time and money.

Thanks for all the input from both sides.
Brent
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Old 10-21-05, 11:40 AM
  #42  
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Brent, thanks for taking the time to respond. I apologize if my post came across as incendiary. I was irked at what seemed like a disconnect between quality of finish and price. I still don't like the non-uniform finish, but thank you for explaining it.

-Jeff
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Old 10-21-05, 12:09 PM
  #43  
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So...you're the direct link to Phil Wood around here huh?...lol
um....I'm waiting on a 36 hole highFlange rear to be sent to BikeWorksNYC...is it back orders on these cogs that's holding that up?!!...just kidding (I think)

BTW....
Originally Posted by Brent at PW
The finish on the backside is the color after the final heat treat. We thought it looked good with just the front face polished and the backside raw. Some agree and some don't, that is fine. More polishing would mean more time and money.

Thanks for all the input from both sides.
Brent
I may be wrong, but...I think it's absurd that you all thought that the cog would look good (or rather, better than otherwise) with only one side of the cog polished. Some agree, but most don't.Maybe there's a few people out there who like their bike lopsided, but I think the last reason you explained sounds a bit mroe reasonable. More polishing= more time and money.

so...question...if I cop one of these great Phil cogs, what would be a doable way to go about polishing the other side myself?
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Old 10-21-05, 12:22 PM
  #44  
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i don't think it's absurd, you can't even see the unpolished side once it's installed.
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Old 10-21-05, 12:25 PM
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what does the unfinished side look like?
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Old 10-21-05, 12:25 PM
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copper-tinted bare metal.
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Old 10-21-05, 12:37 PM
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if both sides were unpolished, would that significantly decrease the price? or is it unsightly?

edit: sorry, i was thinking of the cog as its own product. i imagine as it is, it looks great with the phil hub. make more sense to think of it on the bike than looking at it in person.

Last edited by zip22; 10-21-05 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 10-21-05, 12:43 PM
  #48  
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They were not finished like the current ones but the main concern was could we do a stainless cogs that was as durable as a good cromo cog. After a lot of testing with heat treating and material we determined we could.
I am not an engineer but shouldn't a ss cog outlast a cromo cog based on regular use?
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Old 10-21-05, 12:57 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by captsven
I am not an engineer but shouldn't a ss cog outlast a cromo cog based on regular use?
i'm not an engineer or a metallurgist, but i'm pretty sure that ss has nickle in it, which makes the alloy softer than cromo.
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Old 10-21-05, 01:05 PM
  #50  
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A couple of us in mpls through contacts rode the phil wood 17t and 18t track cog last winter. it just was a normal cog. we got em through a contact to test in the crappy weather...

it worked really well but i dont remember anything special about the presentation...
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