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(am I doing this right?)

Been having issues with my kilo tt.

I've switched back to my kilo from my 725, and also put on a 1/8th 17t cog onto my kilo tt along with a 1/8th chain. However the chainring on the bike is a 3/32, I've read that I shouldn't be running into any issues, but when I start from a dead stop and on the downstroke (right foot for me) it feels like it drops down and there is no forward momentum. I know its not possible that the wheel is losing traction, but I also can't think of an issue it could be with the drive train.

I'm wondering if anyone had any clues as to what this issue could be and how I can fix it, I'd prefer not to have to buy a new chainring to match the 1/8th to match.

Thanks

Your cog is loose.

Thanks, just checked it with my chain whip and it had about another quarter turn to go.

Where can I find a Sun CR18 laced to a fixed/fixed hub?

I just got a flat, it's a very small puncture. I have plenty of patches but i'm out of glue. Is rubber cement from home depot the same thing as the glue from patch kits? If it isn't does home depot have something that's very similar I can buy tomorrow morning? I just want a big thing of patch glue quick. Would this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-3-fl-...0107/100195615

Yes it should work. If it says rubber or rubber based, it should vulcanize a patch onto the tube.
Most 99 cents stores carry it too in a large travel toothpaste size tube.

Use it just like you would with the stuff that comes in kits.

Should I put these FSA SLK riser bars on my Mr Pink if I've been itching to do it? I pretty much only commute to work through the city now and think it'd be awesomeee.

Thanks man appreciate it, I'll go grab some from either the dollar store or home depot tomorrow.

Forgot to mention but avoid "rubber cement" like by elmers for ex; that's the rubbery stuff that's on the back of new gift/ credit cards and used for scrapbooking = no bueno for patching whatsoever.
You want straight up "contact cement".

Got ya, I know exactly what you're talking about. I'll make sure it's industrial stuff and not gummy weak crap.

[MENTION=180928]Leukybear[/MENTION] I grabbed a 3 oz. bottle today for $4. I think this stuff works better than the little bottle that comes with the patch kits. It might just be I can use more since the bottles huge but no complaints. I filled up an empty little vizine eye drop bottle for the road lol.

No. This is not the correct adhesive. Vulcanizing adhesives can be purchased at auto parts stores in the tire repair section.

The stuff I got from Home Depot works great. I have my tire filled up to 115 psi, and rode about 15 miles so far with no trouble.

I primarily use it and it's never failed me.
Sure it may not be "proper" in the eyes of a person who does it by the book but it does have vulcanizing ingredients. And for the price to quantity ratio, it can't be beat.

It can easily take care of a patch made from roughed scrap inner tube as well.

You can't argue with results.
Here's one of my patch jobs with the stuff:


Looks pretty vulcanized to me.

I just looked at the auto patch kits for cars. It was slime brand and on the glue tube it said "rubber cement" which is pretty much the exact same thing we're using.

You guys are making me want to start patching tubes instead of replacing them. I am hoping the urge passes.

Tubes cost money which can add up pretty quickly. Patches are pennies on the dollar.

Buy a jar or large tube of contact cement and bulk patches direct from china on ebay or alibaba and you'll be set after you pair it up with either a dull saw blade, file,or sandpaper/ skateboard grip tape trimmings to roughen the spot.

Easiest way to find a pin hole leak is to fill a tube up to 10/15 PSI and put it in a partially filled sink or basin and look for the bubbles, marking it with a pen so you dont lose it.

So far I have been averaging about 2 flats a year, which is why I haven't made it a big deal. I already do trace down the location of the puncture though, so that I can inspect the tire (usually involves removing something from it) so really it would just be about getting the stuff you mentioned, which I am guessing will cost about the same as one new tube.

You'll be set aferwards

This is why I use a tire with bead to bead puncture protection.

Which tires are those?

I wonder if they're along the lines of what I'm thinking of... anyhow no airable tire no matter how much "protection" it has is 100% full-proof.

Tireliners also help. BUT they do slowly and eventually wear thin tubes and puncture them themselves at where they lapover. Of which is directly correlated along with ride quality degradement of varying degrees depending on how thick/ protective the liner is.

Panaracer RiBMO's have tread and sidewall protection, and come as close to 100% as you could ask.

Cool, maybe i'll get a pair of those instead of Rando's for my next tires.