I need some decent but semi-inexpensive rain gear. It's just for light rides (30 miles and under).

Mostly looking at long pants and some type of shell top layer. I don't like flashy stuff..just simple designs that won't make me look like a total fred.

There is tons of stuff to choose from but from my snowboarding days, what you spend isn't always equivalent to quality/keeping you dry (nothing worse than spending $150 on pants and having a wet butt while sitting on your second lift of the day). Any good bang for your buck models/brands I should stick with?

REI usually has two or three options. Showers Pass is a bit above that, but if you find a sale you might want to go with them. They are very well built and well designed.

Please don't shoot if the question is too silly:

Why does Shimano make the Dura Ace track sprockets no higher than 16 teeth, but they make them in both 1/8 and 3/32 widths? Is 3/32 also an usual width on the velodrome?

It's not unheard of. On the other hand, anything bigger than a 16t cog (unless paired with a monstrous chainring) would be way too spinny for track racing.

Even 16T is too low for racing. I only used my 16T for warmup.

My guess is they realize some people might not be on the track all the time or they just want to hit more of the market and make more gobs of money. Who knows.

I'm looking for a jersey that is mostly black but with a decent amount of hi vis yellow accents. I can't find anything like that, really, most are hi vis yellow with black accents. Anyone know of any?

Ended up ordering the clubman jersey from planet x. Was considering the pedal mafia "church of pain kit" but pedal mafia is a dumb name and I didn't like the crosses on it.

Thank you [MENTION=176970]seau grateau[/MENTION], [MENTION=168526]TejanoTrackie[/MENTION] & [MENTION=367130]veganbikes[/MENTION]!

No prob, bob! Always happy to help when I can!

SunTour did the same. Maybe it's a Japanese thing?

The way I see it from what I've learned so far: apparently the ss/fg transmission has to deal with stronger forces due to the fact that it also does the braking (coaster brake or fg) and, when riding fixed gear, is always in motion. Therefore thicker chain and sprockets seem to make sense.

If Shimano sells their Dura Ace track 3/32 cogs for the road fg conversions (because one can keep the 3/32 thick road chainrings) why then not make the cogs with more teeth than 16?

If the Dura Ace track cogs are indeed only intended for the track, then why make them in both 1/8 and 3/32 widths? I guess my question is: Are there situations on the track where a 3/32 transmission would make a more suitable choice?

I think drive train durability would be the main advantage of 1/8 over 3/32. 3/32 is always going to be a bit lighter, but this is rarely a concern on the track. Some sources I've read describe endurance track racers using 3/32 because the chains are less rigid and easier to push over longer periods of time. 3/32 was probably more commonly used for track and fixed gear when the equipment was more interchangeable. Modern 9+ speed chains are said to be too narrow to be usable on 3/32 fixed cogs.

Here's a couple links that discuss the subject a bit:

https://www.kenhart.com/track/FAQ_Roa...ack_Chains.pdf

https://www.ridethetrack.com/pdf/trackracing_intro.pdf

Hey, thank you very much, [MENTION=176970]seau grateau[/MENTION]! Those links are bookmark worthy. The information there clearly answered my question and then some.

My question arose as I am making my first fixed gear conversion. Having already bought a used Shimano 600 tri color crankset (which I' ve read gives a 42mm chainline paired with an 107mm bottom bracket) my initial intention was to seek for a 3/32 chain and cog, to keep the 600 chainring. But as my fat ass weighs 220 lbs, I wondered whether the 1/8 transmission would be the way to go. Yet, now that I've read what you suggested, it is clear I won't have the power nor the skill to ride so aggressively on the street that a 3/32 setup would become a reliability issue. So, I guess, I would pick which solution comes more handy.

Thank you again!

I dont think 3/32 would really be a reliability issue unless u were mashing with a lot of power. I would personally just switch to a 3/32 chain and cog, thats what I did on my fixed conversion last year and it was plenty durable. I dont think you can go wrong with either decision.

Why are so many people under the false impression that 3/32" chains are weaker than 1/8"?

Cause we live in the land of SUV's and supersize fries.

This is the most logical reason I can think of.

No problem. In most cases, it probably won't make a practical difference either way, so you'll be fine.

In some cases, they are.

And in other cases certain 1/8" chains are stronger than others, making the original "problem" even less relevant.

When comparing two chains made the exact same way, one being 3/32" and the other 1/8" - like the KMC K810SL and K170SL for example - the only actual difference between them is the pins are shorter on the 3/32" version. The plates are the same thickness and I would bet one is just as "strong" as the other.

This.

This. The preference for 1/8th inch for track purposes is because 1/8th inch chainrings and cogs are thicker, stronger and more durable. same reason there is a preference for 144 BDC over 130 BDC it is simpler to make the crank spider stronger than the chainring.

We're talking about 1/32th of an inch here. I'm not persuaded there is any real world difference between them.

Going from a 3/32nd to a 1/8th is a 33% increase.