I wouldn't think so. The small amount of extra chain slack you'd get from one tooth's difference probably won't necessitate moving the wheel much at all.

I switch between a 15 and 17 on my SS cross bike and don't have to move the brakes.

Going to either change to black tires or delabel the Ellipses this spring.

Anybody know the widest tires a Langster can take?

Anybody know hard it is to remove these labels?

I was kinda wondering something along the same lines as the brake thing, I want to put a 16t on the other side of my hub, so I can switch between 15t and 16t, will it affect the length of my chain a whole lot? My rear wheel is fairly close to the seat tube (which has the little "aero" cutout), but I've still got about 1/4"-1/2" of clearance.

I can't really make it longer, it's a K710SL, and you can't really push the hollow pins back in once you pop them out, or so I'm told.

I want to go the other way. Currently running 16 but am getting a little stronger and would like to run a 15 for some training rides on the flatter MUP. Sometime when I'm not so lazy I'll do the math.

framebuilding - How do I calculate the diameter of a chainring from the number of teeth? - Bicycles Stack Exchange

I was thinking about the implication to brake pad position and didn't even think about the chain length. Shouldn't be too difficult to determine how much further back (or forward in your case) the wheel would sit.

Adding a tooth to the cog will only move the wheel forward 1/8th inch, so you should be ok. As to the K710SL, I was able to push the pin back into the link plate, although it was difficult and I went very slowly using a good Park chain tool.

I experimented with pushing one back in with my Rivoli chain tool, and it went back in, but the links didn't move as freely.

I do want to get myself a better tool, and maybe try that. But thanks for the info.

anyone have any experience with the all city pursuit special or 612 chain rings? or have any recommendations for a 47t chainring in 144 bcd that isnt priced outrageously

I don't have the All-City pursuit special, but have heard only good about it. I can personally recommend the Blackspire that is made in Canada as an excellent moderately priced chainring.

Most All City stuff is very good.

Bump....

:)

You have the bike right in front of you. Measure.

Peel them off and use WD40 or Goo Gone to remove the residue.

Resourcefulness is dead.

No, just on life support.

It's not dead, it's just kinda slow.

Better to be pissed off, than pissed on
Better to be a smartass, than a dumbass
Better to be a kinda slow rider, than a kinda slow person

Even if some days you are being to lazy to just measure the gaps...

I'm glad that resourcefulness is dead because I'm hoping someone knows the torque spec for Shimano Dura Ace chainring bolts.

Actually I did look at SHIMANO Dealer's Manual / User's Manual but couldn't find a spec. Nearest I could find was Torque Specifications and Concepts | Park Tool which says 70 to 95 in/lbs.

Also, not knowing any better I'd put a little blue Loctite on these. Do I really need to use red Loctite?

You don't really need a torque spec for chainring bolts. Tighten them until they're tight.

Blue Loctite is fine. Never use red Loctite on anything bike-related. Ever.

Kind of in line with what I was thinking. Thanks.

This man has just won the internet!

Is there a place to order KMC chains and missing links without paying the $9.99 shipping they charge at the KMC website?

Your local shop assuming it has an account with QBP or Merry Sales or J&B or similar distributor that sells K-chains which should be most shops. Merry Sales has a free online catalog you can scan through and most QBP dealers will have a catalog in shop or they should be able to show you the website.

Literally any bike shop.

What's the url?

My experience at most of the local shops has been pretty dismal.