I'm not sure if I call 1880g weight-weenieish...

The wabi standard wheelset comes in at 1725, but they also have a sub15 wheelset that comes in at 1425. I'd call 1425 weight-weenieish.

That price is pretty dang good, although it is $60 shipping for them so factor that in as well. Not crazy about the hubs they used. I know nothing of them, but they are not that attractive looking.

24 spoke two-cross rear? With straight gauge spokes? Good luck with that.

I'd get Forumulas X HPlus Sons all day over those.

Yes! They're not weight weenieish either, but they'll take anything you can throw at them for a few dollars more.

I have that BDop DIY wheelset. Costs $230, +1700 grams (24/28), 24 mm outer rim width. But you have to build it or pay someone to

Thanx to all for helping me avoid a likely bad purchase...

However in response to SquidPuppet's comment - I've been riding a 24 spoke 2x rear wheel for close to 2 yrs and am quite happy with it (but it does have heavily butted spokes tho ;))...

Yeah, that's a piss-poor choice of spokes for that wheelset.

Best helmet for track riding? I'm assuming just any road helmet would do, but not sure if there are anything specific or better suited.

Also, I think the local track requires gloves, which I've never owned before. Fingerless gloves the best way to go for warm weather?

Road helmet will be fine. I've been using fingerless gloves -- they're not required at my track, but encouraged, mainly so that you can hold the rail without burning your hands on hot sunny days (that thing gets reeeeal hot). Again, I just carried over the ones I use on the road.

Hey does anyone know off the top what size clamp the stock surly creamroller stem is? Not sure if it's 25.4 or 26 but I'm trying to grab some new riser bars on my way home.

I'm pretty sure was 25.4

Could just err on the safe side and get 25.4 bars. If the stem is 26, it can be easily shimmed.

What are these parts?

Tiny pieces of metal, slightly bent. They have what appears to be two sided tape on them. Shims for something?

Came with a new Shimano 105 groupset. I've no idea what they are for.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4szdyhvv8r...sthis.JPG?dl=1

Shims to decrease the reach of the levers for those with smaller hands.

Appreciate it guys, you were right it was 25.4. I had forgotten to come back and write here.

Found it in the FD-5800 dealer manual. RTFM.

They are backing plates for the support screw on the 5800/6800 front derailleur so the frame doesn't get damaged. One is curved for round tubes and the other is flat.

Why do so many track riders ride with 167.5?
I just creamed everyone on my last class on a loaner bike, and was startled to find the loaner's crank was 172.5! Never came close to pedal striking and never had a problem. Felt GREAT in fact.

Also, why do track riders all ride with so many spokes?
If a road wheel can take railroad crossings, and curb-hoppings with so few spokes, couldn't a track bike do just fine with even fewer spokes? Are we really pulling that many G's on a 250m track's banking? (My local track is a 333.)

Also, is it illegal (or just poor taste) to ride a road wheel up front on a track bike with a quick-release?

It is against track racing regulations to use a quick release on either wheel, but it's up to the individual track to decide if it's permitted for just open riding or training sessions. As to track arm length many pursuiters use longer crank arm lengths, even 175mm. I use 165mm on both road and track, because I have short legs and like to spin. You won't have any problem with pedal strike on a 333m track, but don't try that at my 250mm track, which has 44 degree banking in the turns.

As to spoke count, it's more about stiffness than strength, and really just pertains to the rear wheel and to powerful sprinters. My racing wheels have only 18 spokes in the front (radial), but 28 in the rear (2X) on a high flange hub.

Gracias Guapo!
I like to spin too, but am 6'2" and feel like a shriner riding those little bitty 167.5's. Heck, my commuter has 177.5's and I spin those comfortably over 100rpm.

Guess I'll have to get a track skewer converter for my C50 front wheel.

https://www.universalcycles.com/imag...large/2258.jpg


Any idea why everyone rides with so many spokes? It's been my empirical observation that fewer spokes equal a faster wheel. And these modern spokes like the CXRays are a far cry from the stuff we used to ride in the 80's.

See my edited previous post. My Cane Creek racing wheels also have CX-Rays as well as a new set of clincher wheels from HeavyPedal that I bought for a new road fixed gear build.

I have an odd seat post diameter of 26.6mm. I want a Thomson 0 setback seat post, but they only make that size in black, and I need silver.

Would getting a 25.4 seat post with a 25.4 to 26.6 shim be safe to do?

Yup. That's what seatpost shims are for.

Perhaps against my better judgment, I am interested in a crabon frame. However, there's this:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8790/2...5ebae0ca_o.jpg

My three quick questions:

- is that crack in the carbon or in the paint?
- if in the carbon, if the crack were to get bigger, would it be visible? For instance, could I mark the end of the crack with a dot of permanent marker and keep an eye on it?
- if I were to spring for carbon repair, what kind of bill would I be looking at exactly? (I assume there have been way worse cases of cracked carbon being successfully repaired)

shoot me a PM if you ever want to sell those ;)