I've done standard square taper bottom brackets on track bikes and since there isn't any gaskets in the cups, it's easy to figure out how tight to go on the NDS size.

Currently I'm rebuilding the square taper on an older mountain bike. After a good cleaning, the axle/bearings/cups look immaculate with no scoring/pitting.

Now when tightening the NDS side, is it okay to have a little bit of side-to-side play on the NDS crank? (just a little, I'm not talking about enough to where it could hit the chainstay) Or do you want no side-to-side play at all?
Since each cup has a rubber gasket in the center, I figure a little play is normal after tightening.
Thanks

Gasket (seal) or not, you want as little play w/o any noticeable binding in the bearings. Also, any play will be noticeable on both crankarms.

I usually install the NDS crank arm when having issues with a particular bottom bracket. It just gives me a better indication of play instead just pushing back and forth on the exposed axle. I still have room to get my park tool tong spanner on the holes and tighten the lock ring even with the crank arm in place.

I do the same, adjust with the NDS arm intalled an the DS arm removed. I use the NDS arm to feel for play at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions and adjust until it turns freely without play.

Didn't realize Phil Wood no longer does 110mm hardware for the 120mm hubs, my keirin frame is 110mm. Wondering if anyone knows of any webstores or any third party options that would let me handle this build.

They still re-space hubs don't they?

Have you contacted Phil Wood's service dept?

They don't make them anymore but last time I checked they still had some of the 110mm conversion kits in stock. Part # is A1SVI10.

EAI Superstar or Dura Ace cog?

Ive always run DA cogs and lockrings with zero problems. Is the EAI worth the extra coin?

same thing with the lock ring? any noticeable difference in quality?

EAI Gold Medal or Sugino Gigas to really go big. DA is certainly a good quality cog but I don't think it is comparable to other DA bits. Superstar is nicely polished and from all accounts a nicer cog and plus it is MUSA. I would probably only change lockrings just to be same same but that I don't see a huge need to switch up as the cog is really the main star.

I know I noticed a difference going to Gigas cogs with their S3 coating. Slick, quiet and the cog just feels nice in your hand. The Gold Medal is quite similar but maybe better because it is gold and MUSA.

Anyone ride a Shimano Biopace chainring setup?

I picked up an early 90's Cannondale mtb that's in great condition but with the usual worn parts (chain, cables/housing, tires, etc..).
Haven't decided if I want to ditch the Biopace triple and just buy a used set of standard chainrings from the local bicycle recyclery. Everything is on order so I haven't ridden the bike yet....but I do have credit at the local used shop (and the chainrings are really inexpensive there).


I was going to use it as a camping bike/light trail riding but also let my step-mom borrow it from time to time....just curious if Biopace is definitely worth ditching or not really all that bad.

I had a roadie with Biopace going back to their original go-round quite some time ago - it took me a bit of getting used to but then it didn't seem to be any big deal for or against 'em. Since then, since I am kind of a vintage bike fanboi, I did own one "minty" bike with Biopace and for no explainable reason other than wanting to preserve them...immediately changed the rings out.

Considering that over the years, even to this day, there are oval ring systems being promoted and sold, and adherents to them - it would seem there should be something behind the idea. Sorry, guess I am not much help :rolleyes:

Now for my question...

Has anybody here successfully used bar-end/reverse/TT brake levers on a Nitto RB-002 handlebar?

Yes, I know that they specifically state that this bar is not suitable for a bar-end lever. But it is what I already own, and from riding hooded roadie levers so much lately, I got used to being on the "horns" & since i put my Nitto on, in a couple incidents even the slight delay/awkwardness in moving my hand to the cross-top lever has been...errr...disturbing.

I foolishly tried Tektro 4.1, which as to be expected did not work, so now am hunting some other solution. Any ideas here?

Thanx...

what is the bar diameter at the end? could you run a cross lever backwards or something?

Here it is executed.

http://www.amazon.com/review/R3DD0SC...sporting-goods

As for biopace I have no issue with mine, I have an 88 specialized that came with 105 and I have replaced everything but the crankset and headset. Installed new Claris derail. front and rear as well as shifter/levers. works just fine with the biopace crankset

Just picked up my first bike in nearly 10 years, looking for a good basic tool kit & portable pump.

Thanks

My bar is 24mm OD at the ends...

I had found several reverse Tri/TT levers that fit on the outside of 22.4mm barends but was having trouble finding something to fit mine until I just ran across this...

https://www.3tcycling.com/road/en/bi...ake-levers-pro

Looks like I would have to drill a hole in my bar for the cable to use these - which I prefer not to do, but unless anyone has any better suggestions soon...I may well give them a try.

Wish me luck...

I gave up on the RB-002 for this very reason -- sexy but impractical for any sort of spirited riding. Loads of style points, though -- it's the best-looking bullhorn by a long shot IMO.

Changed to a traditional road handlebar and couldn't be happier.

Topeak Road Morph is the only portable pump I would bother spending money on. There may be something similar or better out there, but I wouldn't know. I use a floor pump at home and carry CO2 cartridges for on-the-road fixes. A set of tire levers, a cycling-specific multi-tool, and a 15mm wrench should give you almost everything you need to do basic maintenance and such.

PDW Magic Flute FTW.

It's an excellent quality mini pump that doubles as a CO2 inflator.

Cool, I'll been looking at the topeak mini master blaster so at least I'm in the right area. Grabbed the topeak alien ii earlier also. Thanks again.

How come 165mm is typically the shortest length for track crank arms? I just looked at an old set of cheap Eighth Inch cranks I had, and noticed they were 160's. I really liked the way they felt, until I was hit by a car and they were destroyed.

How come higher end sets (Campy, Dura Ace, Sugino, etc) don't go lower than 165?

Wabi wheelset for casual road riding? Very casual.

The standard Wabi wheelset is plenty strong, assuming you aren't a clyde. I can't vouch for the Wabi sub 15.

Anybody able to provide any insight on the long term durability of conti GP classics?
Definitely would like to hear about the tan casing's hardiness to UV exposure.

https://static.bike-components.de/ca...c5295b940.jpeg

From the looks of the casing, I'm pretty sure these are not immune to the conti brake floss phenomenon

The casing looks a lot like the old Conti Competition tubulars, which would eventually dry out and crumble, but this only after 5 or more years of exposure to sunlight. As to flossing, hard to say, but prolly no worse than the modern versions.

Does just under a year with only a couple thousand miles count as long-term? ;)

I got them to replace some older Continental UltraGatorskins on my gearie that I liked very much and to retry 25mm tires in place of 23mm that I've been using exclusively for the past few years...

Yeah, it has not been that long, but as of now the sidewalls are holding up fine and yes - they are definitely subject to the Conti hangy threads phenomenon.

You did not ask about ride quality but in case you are interested, even with all their differences, they still feel pretty much like a slightly cushier version of my old tires. Tread is wearing pretty quick though...

It just occurred to me you could use a BMX hub.