Skip it, I decided to let Scrod build 'em this time. Thanks, though.

Didn't have either problem, so

http://i.imgur.com/KqS5JMh.jpg

Just for future reference, DansComp.com will cut and roll any quantity of spokes to any length. Their prices are insanely low too. Sapim stainless double butted including Polyax brass nipple for 40 cents. $6.00 for shipping.

Hey a circle jerk will be the closest thing to action I have gotten in a little while : (

Looks like 70 cents now. I pay ~$1 per DT straight gauge spoke at the co-op as a volunteer and we don't always have all the sizes in stock. What a deal.

with clipless, my knees hurts (used clipless for lots of years, so I know it's not a fit problem). But I hate the feel of straps. Should I use straps fairly loose (just as a safety measure in downhill parts), or use a nice flat pedal with pins? I use my fg in road training (80-120km per ride), and never had a foot slip without straps, but read lots of horror stories. Of course I have a brake, and use it sooner when riding without any kind of retention. Actually the only time my foot slipped was on a ****ty uphill, and it was just a minor slip.

I have the been in the school of thought that if you are riding clipless and your knees hurt, there is either a cleat issue or the saddle height is off. What kind of pedals are you running? And with the cleats, if you are running an mtb style pedal like EggBeaters or SPD's, even a slight adjustment of the cleat angle can make all the difference in the world.

messed a lot with saddle height, but started with the measured in my last bike fit, and the cleats were in the same position as before (instaled on said bike fit). I'm running Spd-Sl, with the basic Shimano Road pedals. With the Shimano M520 got the same problem. It's not a can't-keep-riding-anymore pain. I ride fine, and then, I got some mild disconfort in the knees, in normal day activities.

I am happy (and you will be too) to point out that you are wrong. ;)

Sapim Race spokes are still 40 cents including nipple.

https://www.danscomp.com/products/43...ted_Spoke.html

Sapim Race spokes are 14g (2mm) on each end with a thinner 15G (1.8mm) center. You might be referring to their Laser spokes, which are 70 cents. Laser spokes have an even thinner 17G (1.5mm) center. I believe that laser spokes are a good idea that's been taken too far, and won't build a wheel with them.

If you haven't used Sapims before, you might really enjoy the benefits of the Polyax nipple.

Their straight 14 gauge spokes are 25 cents including nipple. You can build TWO, 36 spoke wheels for $18.00 :eek:

No problem with Sapim Laser spokes, but I'm not a heavyweight either. All my past spoke failures have been at the bend, where stress risers tend to occur. The biggest problem with building wheels with small diameter spokes is windup during tensioning.

Sapim lasers on my 20/24 build for my 177# still going strong.

Weird, I'm browsing the site and I can't find this page. gonna bookmark it

They changed their site last year and it behaves wonky. The best way to find it is search by brand and this page comes up, displaying ALL of their Sapim offerings. Blades, black, etc.

https://www.danscomp.com/Sapim/bmx/

I see. I went to Spokes&Nipples -> Manufacturer -> Sapim and they only display the CX Ray and Laser spokes.

For me it's not a failure issue. I'm sure Lasers will last forever. I prefer a stiffer feeling wheel.

Their site used to be super friendly, then they "upgraded" it. What a mess. :rolleyes:

Notice no nipples appear on that page? Lame. Search "Nipple" and viola. They offer an upgrade thingy where if you want black nipples the just charge a small upcharge instead of full price. Same thing if you want to use aluminum (yuck) nips.

For your mad Idaho wheely sKiLLz yo, no doubt.

It's less about that (radial flex) and more about the tremendous cornering G forces (lateral flex) I experience due to the incredible speeds I generate. :p

This Deep V / Ultegra wheel is one of the earliest I ever built. I has straight gauge spokes and is solid as a rock and heavy as hell :lol:
http://i.imgur.com/b9P4mDK.jpg?1

I have only broken one spoke before, it was a double butted on a Mavic rim, while I was out of the saddle in a canyon climb. This body is too big for noodles.

From your mad llama motorbike sKilLz yo.

https://d.justpo.st/media/images/201...1459712958.jpg

Win.

i'm assuming those fyxation six fyx ( stupid ass spelling ) conversion kits are kinda trash?

I want a geared bike, and have been thinking of dropping around 1k on one. But looking at this and my FG that I really love, wondering how hard it would be to replace the rear derailleur with a better one and some brifters...

I love my bike, and really a properly geared 6 speed would be plenty

And any road bike thats worth buying that would equal my FG in component quality is gonna need 105 or ultergra groupo

The kit isn't horrible but have a FG/SS as an FG/SS and get a road bike for geared pursuits. If you know what you are doing you might be able to pick up a vintage road bike on the cheap. My Cilo was not expensive and had full Dura Ace 7400 6 speed. Some you might need to put some money into it but what bike doesn't at least at some point.

If I were to get that kit for some reason I would ditch a bunch of the components on it and go with higher quality stuff either new or vintage or just make my own kit in a similar fashion. However I would rather just go for a nice road frame like that new Mr. Pink (which sadly isn't pink but 'merica now)

Salsa Cutthroat Carbon 1x or Warbird Carbon Ultegra?