Skip-stopping on cottered cranks & Quandos!
12-07-05 | 11:36 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Armageddon wasted.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 244
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From: Leucadia, CA
Bikes: Cinelli 84, Masi 83, Bareknuckle, GT Mach 1
Skip-stopping on cottered cranks & Quandos!
Hey y'alls.
Just wondering if anyone's had bad luck skip-stopping or skidding with cottered cranks. Put together an old Fuji and I've noticed even after 1-2 miles I've gotta bang & tighten the (new) cotter pins. Wondering if they'll break if torqued into a full skid...
Well, everyone's had bad luck with Quando hubs, but has anyone increased their lifespan with high-test Loctite and/or just given'er when tightening the lockring? Heard about vice-tightening, but I'm afraid of stripping the threads (not that the won't anyway, sooner or later). Any sound advice and/or recommendations on stronger hubs (on the cheap) would be appreciated.
Thanks, buds.
Just wondering if anyone's had bad luck skip-stopping or skidding with cottered cranks. Put together an old Fuji and I've noticed even after 1-2 miles I've gotta bang & tighten the (new) cotter pins. Wondering if they'll break if torqued into a full skid...
Well, everyone's had bad luck with Quando hubs, but has anyone increased their lifespan with high-test Loctite and/or just given'er when tightening the lockring? Heard about vice-tightening, but I'm afraid of stripping the threads (not that the won't anyway, sooner or later). Any sound advice and/or recommendations on stronger hubs (on the cheap) would be appreciated.
Thanks, buds.
12-07-05 | 11:44 AM
#2
meet the mets
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,555
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From: Bucktown, Chicago
Bikes: Raleigh conversion (hours spent making it look like a Pista); Porter Track, Samson Track, Leto Roadie.
I'd be kinda wary about the cotter pins coming loose...I don't really have any experience with these, though. I think that, when properly adjusted and set-up, they're okay, but it doesn't sound like these are. LBS...or just get new cranks.
Not going to get much cheaper than Formula hubs, and people like 'em. Wheelset's $150 on Nashbar.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...u=13712&brand=
Not going to get much cheaper than Formula hubs, and people like 'em. Wheelset's $150 on Nashbar.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...u=13712&brand=
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Originally Posted by monkey
You could be doing blow off a dead hooker with a needle sticking out of your arm and you wouldn't get kicked out of Humboldt.
12-07-05 | 12:21 PM
#4
robots in disguise
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Baghdad-by-the-Bay
Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
...or just get new cranks.
Last edited by beppe; 12-07-05 at 12:39 PM.
12-07-05 | 12:27 PM
#5
meet the mets
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Bucktown, Chicago
Bikes: Raleigh conversion (hours spent making it look like a Pista); Porter Track, Samson Track, Leto Roadie.
[QUOTE=beppe]
I agree. Another $20 for a Shimano sealed BB.
Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
...or just get new cranks. /QUOTE]
And a bottom bracket spindle, or a totally new bottom bracket. The spindle is an adventure -- there are 3 sizes of bb spindle for cottered cranks -- so getting a new cartridge is probably the way to go.
And a bottom bracket spindle, or a totally new bottom bracket. The spindle is an adventure -- there are 3 sizes of bb spindle for cottered cranks -- so getting a new cartridge is probably the way to go.
__________________
Originally Posted by monkey
You could be doing blow off a dead hooker with a needle sticking out of your arm and you wouldn't get kicked out of Humboldt.
12-07-05 | 01:04 PM
#6
loser
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 385
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From: portland, or
Bikes: steyr, lejeune, schwinn, sears, crescent, blah blah blah.
You might think about avoiding skidding until you have something more than a minimally rugged drivetrain. maybe put those brakes back on.
Try slowing down a bit until you've got $50 for a new BB and used cranks (or $25 for a used spindle/used cranks).
for the hub, using a duraace cog (or similar) so you've got a nice wide threaded contact area will help you avoid stripping as opposed to a thinner cog. I'd say the duraace cog I use now has 50% more contact area of the surly one I used to use.
Try slowing down a bit until you've got $50 for a new BB and used cranks (or $25 for a used spindle/used cranks).
for the hub, using a duraace cog (or similar) so you've got a nice wide threaded contact area will help you avoid stripping as opposed to a thinner cog. I'd say the duraace cog I use now has 50% more contact area of the surly one I used to use.
Last edited by thechamp; 12-07-05 at 01:10 PM. Reason: correction
12-07-05 | 03:32 PM
#7
i am sure that i hate you
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,230
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From: 703
Bikes: 'Cha-ruzu Fosuta Orusan Kein' Fuji Track (2005), Schwinn Tank MTB (?), Fuji Royale (1979)
yeah get a new set of cranks/BB; if youre have problems already it will only get worse (speaking from experience).
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