lock-up techniques
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 321
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From: Seattle
lock-up techniques
so, ive been wondering. im thinking about getting a new lock, cos this chain thing ive got is getting to be a little too much of a hassle, and im thinking about a mini. how do you guys use these? ive seen stuff, like on sheldonbrown etc., that suggest ways of using a mini, and i know/have seen people who just lock their frames, or their rear wheel to the frame. is there a consensus as to the most effective way to use a mini-u?
#6
無くなった

Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Sci-Fi Wasabi
Bikes: I built the Bianchi track bike back up today.
Originally Posted by popluhv
If you have track ends, you can run tight enough tire clearance that a chain breaker or removal of the chainring is necessary to get the wheel off. That way you can concentrate on the front wheel.
#8
...only problem is said thief'll probably have unscrewed your axle bolts and yanked on your
wheel before they figure it out. I'd still lock the rear as more of a visual deterent.
wheel before they figure it out. I'd still lock the rear as more of a visual deterent.
Originally Posted by popluhv
If you have track ends, you can run tight enough tire clearance that a chain breaker or removal of the chainring is necessary to get the wheel off. That way you can concentrate on the front wheel.
#9
how *not* to lock up: (Chombo's photo of wangster's bike)
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,250
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Originally Posted by eyefloater
Wait on that purchase until the NY Minis come out.
Put the Mini u-lock around the rear wheel a couple inches behind the seat tube. In bad areas, secure the front wheel with a cable lock or a second mini-lock. Your bike is not going anywhere.
Never, never, never, put a u-lock around the seat tube or any part of the frame. A dumb crook will attempt to use the frame of the bike as a lever to break the u-lock. He will pretzel your frame long before he breaks the u-lock. That is why the u-lock must enclose the rear wheel and ONLY the rear wheel. If a crook attacks your bike, he will fail. He may damage your rear rim...far cheaper to replace than your frame.
And, always park next to a moron. I saw two expensive Cannondales parked at a museum last year. A two dollar cable was strung through the front wheels...which had quick releases...wasn't any crook gonna be looking at my 1983 Trek.
Last edited by alanbikehouston; 12-18-05 at 07:44 PM.
#14
`
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 915
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From: Chicago
Bikes: vintage carlton track, vintage carlton tourer(fixed)
One more vote for the sheldon-endorsed technique: mini on rear wheel thru the stays, thick cable from the mini to front wheel... Not a bad idea to rig something for your seat too.
#16
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
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From: savannah/ rva
Bikes: single speed mid 90's rock hopper, a 70's nishiki 10 speed, and a 2000 gary fisher w/ front suspention
i have a u lock and one of those kryptonite chains attatched to it. i lock the rear wheel and frame to a sign post with my u lock and i get the front wheel with the chain. its also nice having the chain because i can just sling it over my shoulder instead of having to put in in my bag everytime i unlock
-sam-
-sam-
#17
Originally Posted by chimblysweep
how *not* to lock up: (Chombo's photo of wangster's bike)


Now please, somebody's gotta have that picture of the bob jackson with the purely decorative chain.
#18
MADE IN TAIWAN
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,438
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From: SF
Bikes: Tarmac, Humble, Makino, Schwinn
Originally Posted by chimblysweep
how *not* to lock up: (Chombo's photo of wangster's bike)


damn... always forget the whole point of a lock is to be secure... thats why the 3 rensho's gone now... I forgot and locked it to a dog's leash and when I came out, the dog and my bike were gone!
#19
for short-term parking, i prefer the in-the-tree lockup.
dc's tree protection laws are quite strict, so i doubt any theif would dare cut down one of our nation's capitol's precious trees...
dc's tree protection laws are quite strict, so i doubt any theif would dare cut down one of our nation's capitol's precious trees...

#20
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Salem, MA
Bikes: Land Shark, Level Professional, Tsunami singlespeed, Giant Reign 1
I'm a big fan of the Sheldon method as well. It seems that wherever I park my bike, there's plenty of bikes that would be easier targets. I picked up the bullldog mini and cable combo for about $30- I'm really happy with it.
#22
hang up your boots
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,574
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From: San Francisco
Bikes: 84 Pinarello, Trek Liquid 30, Torker CX 24, Gromada Track
Sheldon method with a cable for the front. however, these days you gotta worry about bars/stem and seat/post too.
#23
Originally Posted by schloe mo
One more vote for the sheldon-endorsed technique: mini on rear wheel thru the stays, thick cable from the mini to front wheel... Not a bad idea to rig something for your seat too.
I feel like you can't go wrong with a U-lock around the frame and rear wheel and something sturdy. Look up some of the post around here where people try to explain Sheldons method. It takes three pages and diagrams and some people still don't get it.
I think a crook is more likly to see you have a good lock on afixed to a permanent object and move to the bike beside you that he can lift over the pole that ruin your frame trying to pry the lock off. I can imagine a person looking at your bike(with Sheldon's method) and thinking someone screwed up and bending either the rear trianlge or rear wheel(and I'm not sure how difficult it is to saw througha wheel but I imagine its easier than a kriptonite u-lock).
#24
#25
Originally Posted by rvabiker
...Sheldons method. It takes three pages and diagrams and some people still don't get it.
I can imagine a person looking at your bike and thinking someone screwed up and bending either the rear trianlge or rear wheel.
I can imagine a person looking at your bike and thinking someone screwed up and bending either the rear trianlge or rear wheel.




