What is this spoke pattern called?
#26
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Originally Posted by Walkercycles
It also stiffens the wheel. It makes the soldered area the effective "high flange" and the spokes only flex from that point out to the rim.
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Originally Posted by bostontrevor
There's some age-old claim that the increased spoke length and off-axis loading allows the wheel to better sustain impacts. Supposedly trials riders like them.
I've never heard of any evidence that can sustain or refute that claim.
I've never heard of any evidence that can sustain or refute that claim.
The individual spoke span is a lot less.
Never heard that one about trials riders, it makes a lot of sense if an existing wheel really needs to be stronger than it already is. I could see where very stiff wheels would help a trials rider with very, very small balance changes. That may be more important?
It must be a nightmare to work on, or to build your first one.
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Originally Posted by bostontrevor
No it doesn't.
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Re: the snowflake, the argument that I've heard is that the spokes are longer and thus have more spring to them. It's a squishier wheel and not as stiff, so it absorbs the impact. But like I said, I don't think anyone's actually tested that.
As for tied-and-soldered, it's been hashed and rehashed. At the end of the day, the spoke junction is immobile even without tying and soldering it. There's no measureable improvement.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/tying-and-soldering.html
As for tied-and-soldered, it's been hashed and rehashed. At the end of the day, the spoke junction is immobile even without tying and soldering it. There's no measureable improvement.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/tying-and-soldering.html
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Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Re: the snowflake, the argument that I've heard is that the spokes are longer and thus have more spring to them. It's a squishier wheel and not as stiff, so it absorbs the impact. But like I said, I don't think anyone's actually tested that.
As for tied-and-soldered, it's been hashed and rehashed. At the end of the day, the spoke junction is immobile even without tying and soldering it. There's no measureable improvement.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/tying-and-soldering.html
As for tied-and-soldered, it's been hashed and rehashed. At the end of the day, the spoke junction is immobile even without tying and soldering it. There's no measureable improvement.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/tying-and-soldering.html
The total length of one spoke is longer yes. The distance from one nipple to the other if you measure the spoke is longer yes. But part of it is twisted with another spoke making it react like two spokes instead of one. Isn't that like using two 2x4's for a stronger stiffer beam, instead of one? I think that would have to be stiffer? The span of the unsupported single spoke is reduced too isn't it ?. Just as smaller wheels are stronger, and shorter beams are stronger, doesn't that make the single spoke span shorter and stronger? The triangle created at each end looks like a bridge or roof truss that makes something stronger too. Maybe there is a lot of movement between the two twisted parts and that just throws that whole thing out the window? Or as you say if there is no problem to start with why fix it?
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Originally Posted by 2manybikes
The total length of one spoke is longer yes. The distance from one nipple to the other if you measure the spoke is longer yes. But part of it is twisted with another spoke making it react like two spokes instead of one. Isn't that like using two 2x4's for a stronger stiffer beam, instead of one? I think that would have to be stiffer? The span of the unsupported single spoke is reduced too isn't it ?. Just as smaller wheels are stronger, and shorter beams are stronger, doesn't that make the single spoke span shorter and stronger? The triangle created at each end looks like a bridge or roof truss that makes something stronger too. Maybe there is a lot of movement between the two twisted parts and that just throws that whole thing out the window? Or as you say if there is no problem to start with why fix it?
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hihi
I must report that my 3x snowflake rear wheel has broken a spoke after being coated with saline muck for a month and a half.
it was cool
oh well.
I must report that my 3x snowflake rear wheel has broken a spoke after being coated with saline muck for a month and a half.
it was cool
oh well.
#37
troglodyte
Originally Posted by Seggybop
hihi
I must report that my 3x snowflake rear wheel has broken a spoke after being coated with saline muck for a month and a half.
it was cool
oh well.
I must report that my 3x snowflake rear wheel has broken a spoke after being coated with saline muck for a month and a half.
it was cool
oh well.
i run a 3-leading 3-trailing coaster brake wheel on my funky-weather bike, good to see someone else with a coaster.
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ah... it's actually a (former) Bendix 2 speed coaster brake hub. I took it apart, dremeled and JB Welded various things, and now it is a 2 speed fixed gear hub.
I do really want to get another 3spd coaster hub though~ definitely one of the best parts anyone could use for getting around.
how well has 3l3t pattern worked?
I do really want to get another 3spd coaster hub though~ definitely one of the best parts anyone could use for getting around.
how well has 3l3t pattern worked?
#39
troglodyte
Ah, too cool.
3l3t has worked out very well. I interlaced the spokes (there's one guy on the net who didn't, why I mention) and did a pretty thorough job stress-relieving the wheel, and that sucker is s-o-l-i-d, rode every day to the train for 4-5 months w/ 28c tires and haven't had to so much as touch up the wheel. Seems to handle the stress of the coaster brake well too. I have a rim and hub for a matching front, but haven't gotten around to getting spokes yet.
3l3t has worked out very well. I interlaced the spokes (there's one guy on the net who didn't, why I mention) and did a pretty thorough job stress-relieving the wheel, and that sucker is s-o-l-i-d, rode every day to the train for 4-5 months w/ 28c tires and haven't had to so much as touch up the wheel. Seems to handle the stress of the coaster brake well too. I have a rim and hub for a matching front, but haven't gotten around to getting spokes yet.