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spoke tension question
so my wheels are in perfect true, have about 1000 miles on them. phils laced to velocity
fusions, 3x. is it common practice after X amount of miles to have the wheels retensioned, or at least checked? do the spokes settle and lose some tension? they are straight as the day i got them, never needed truing. wondering because just lately, i have thought that i heard them flex against each other when i initally get on the bicycle, but i could also be imagining that. when i go around and squeeze pairs of spokes, tension seems uniform (not un-informed, i have wheelbuilding and repair experience). should i not worry about it? get it checked prophylactically? thanks rafi |
Spokes stretch a little when new, now is a perfect time to retension them. They won't need much and remember, if your rear wheel has a lot of dish, the non-drive spokes will pull the rim over more than the drive side with an equal turn..
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Oh, also, a flick with your finger will tell you if they are uniform, the pitch should be the same. on the rear they will not be the same from one side to the other.
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^^^Dude, what forum are you in? Dish? Tut tut!
OP: if your wheels are true, spokes have the same pitch, and none FEEL loose, you're fine. Especially if they were built by a good builder. |
Originally Posted by genericbikedude
^^^Dude, what forum are you in? Dish? Tut tut!
OP: if your wheels are true, spokes have the same pitch, and none FEEL loose, you're fine. Especially if they were built by a good builder. |
not to mention that even a single-sided rear fixed wheel has dish.
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Originally Posted by mcoine
how many wheels have you built?
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Originally Posted by rafi
not to mention that even a single-sided rear fixed wheel has dish.
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^ agreed
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okay. i havent built any single-speed rear wheels, only front wheels and
casette style rears. regardless, the thread has been derailed |
1 Attachment(s)
/continuing the derailment
Sorry generic and rikardi, but you two are wrong. A wheel with a single-sided hub, as in the pic below, does have dish. Sorry, rafi. Just needed to clear that up. /end derailment |
Originally Posted by rafi
okay. i havent built any single-speed rear wheels, only front wheels and
casette style rears. regardless, the thread has been derailed The fact is I gave rafi valid advice about his wheels, and genericbikedude is only here to start arguments about something he knows nothing about. |
Originally Posted by beppe
/continuing the derailment
Sorry generic and rikardi, but you two are wrong. A wheel with a single-sided hub, as in the pic below, does have dish. Sorry, rafi. Just needed to clear that up. /end derailment |
Originally Posted by beppe
/continuing the derailment
Sorry generic and rikardi, but you two are wrong. A wheel with a single-sided hub, as in the pic below, does have dish. Sorry, rafi. Just needed to clear that up. /end derailment Thank You! |
A well built wheel shouldn't need touched unless you hit a pothole or something. Spokes settling in is a myth. It's called an incomplete wheelbuilt, where the spokes heads weren't set, or the spokes haven't been relieved of twist properly. Assuming the wheel is built well, which it sure sounds like, then you're good to go until it goes out of true... Carry on.
-brad |
Why would anyone WANT dish? That hub makes no sense. Has it been respaced, or is it meant for 126mm conversions?
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Originally Posted by beppe
/continuing the derailment
Sorry generic and rikardi, but you two are wrong. A wheel with a single-sided hub, as in the pic below, does have dish. Sorry, rafi. Just needed to clear that up. /end derailment |
excellent, thank you all. to genericbikedude, i know what i am talking about, i rescind my statement, but that you for your input
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I'm happy to admit that I might be wrong, but somebody please explain! Thanks!
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Originally Posted by Devolution
A well built wheel shouldn't need touched unless you hit a pothole or something.
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Originally Posted by genericbikedude
I'm happy to admit that I might be wrong, but somebody please explain! Thanks!
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Originally Posted by mrRed
damn, if I needed to re-tension every time I hit a pothole that would suck ass. That would make it like once a week or so.
I'm saying that a well built wheel shouldn't need trued unless you obviously took an impact that would have made it go out of true. It shouldn't work its way out of true over time, not with modern components and a skilled wheel build. -brad |
sorry, my sarcasm isn't working too well. but I did have a case where a big pothole cause some spokes to loosed, although it seems to me that it has to be a significant impact to change the tension / shape.
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Originally Posted by rafi
okay. i havent built any single-speed rear wheels, only front wheels and
casette style rears. regardless, the thread has been derailed |
I just had a high flange 32 hole rear hub built up a little over a month ago. Now the tension is dangerously unbalanced, -two of the spokes on one side are completely slack, and the wheel made a creeking sound and felt uneven like it a flat spot or bump on one side, the last time I rode it (I have since removed the wheel). I ride 700c (mavic cxp33's) & 23mm tires and have gone off some curbs and pot-holes . . my question is, shoud my lbs which built up this wheel for me, charge me for trueing it back to the proper balanced tension?
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