Wheelbuilding- Pulling the stickers off
#1
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From: Williston, VT
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-T, Soma Rush, Razesa Racer, ⅔ of a 1983 Holdsworth Professional, Nishiki Riviera Winter Bike
Wheelbuilding- Pulling the stickers off
I know what my rims are, and the stickers have no aesthetic apeal to me, so there is no question that I will pull them off. The question is when. It seems it would be easier to remove the stickers before I build the wheels, because it will beeasier to remove them, and clean up the residue without spokes in the way, but do the stickers serve any practical purpose to wheelbuilding? Prbably not, but I thought I'd ask. What about the one that says "Do not remove this sticker under penalty of law"?
#3
Ferrous wheel
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From: New Orleans
Bikes: 2004 Gunnar Rock Hound MTB; 1988 Gitane Team Pro road bike; 1986-ish Raleigh USA Grand Prix; mid-'80s Univega Gran Tourismo with Xtracycle Free Radical
I usually forget to pull them off until after I build the wheel. I use naptha to clean up the residue.
#4
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V Track Bike, 1976 Schwinn Sprint Fixed Gear Conversion, 1975 Alan Aluminum Lugged Road Bike, Cannondale Touring, GanWell Road
According to Sheldon:
"It is customary to orient the rim so that the label is readable from the bicycle's right side. If the hub has a label running along the barrel, it should be located so that it can be read through the valve hole. These things will not affect the performance of the wheel, but good wheelbuilders pay attention to these things as a matter of pride and esthetics."
So, as long as you remember which way the label was oriented, it's okay to take it off. I guess you can also figure this out by the orientation of the eyelets adjacent to the valve hole.
#5
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it's probably like the tag on beds that says the same thing. if you sell the bed without the tag, that's when it's a legal issue. probably the same thing here, too. just my guess.
#6
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Bikes: IRO Mark V Track Bike, 1976 Schwinn Sprint Fixed Gear Conversion, 1975 Alan Aluminum Lugged Road Bike, Cannondale Touring, GanWell Road
I forgot to say:
I take them off before I build the wheel, too. Granted, I've only built two wheels so far, making me no expert.
Also, there's usually stuff on the label you might want to write down, such as the maximum PSI the rims can handle.
I take them off before I build the wheel, too. Granted, I've only built two wheels so far, making me no expert.
Also, there's usually stuff on the label you might want to write down, such as the maximum PSI the rims can handle.
#8
how would you mark them for a builder if you are having rims polished and powderocated
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#9
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They're opposite the valve holes, as mentioned above.
#10
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From: Williston, VT
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Originally Posted by SyntaxPC
According to Sheldon:
"It is customary to orient the rim so that the label is readable from the bicycle's right side. If the hub has a label running along the barrel, it should be located so that it can be read through the valve hole. These things will not affect the performance of the wheel, but good wheelbuilders pay attention to these things as a matter of pride and esthetics."
So, as long as you remember which way the label was oriented, it's okay to take it off. I guess you can also figure this out by the orientation of the eyelets adjacent to the valve hole.
#13
Originally Posted by SyntaxPC
According to Sheldon:
"It is customary to orient the rim so that the label is readable from the bicycle's right side. If the hub has a label running along the barrel, it should be located so that it can be read through the valve hole. These things will not affect the performance of the wheel, but good wheelbuilders pay attention to these things as a matter of pride and esthetics."
So, as long as you remember which way the label was oriented, it's okay to take it off. I guess you can also figure this out by the orientation of the eyelets adjacent to the valve hole.whoa! pretensious wheelbuilder alert
#14
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V Track Bike, 1976 Schwinn Sprint Fixed Gear Conversion, 1975 Alan Aluminum Lugged Road Bike, Cannondale Touring, GanWell Road
Originally Posted by MLPROJECT
whoa! pretensious wheelbuilder alert
#18
jack of one or two trades
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
I like Sheldon's little tips like this for wheelbuilding. It's kind of a "code" that let's you judge the work somebody does, even if it is based on something stupid. If your wheelbuilder takes the time to orient the rim that way, put the valve hole over the hub marking, and put the tire on so the label is opposite the valve hole, it's a sign that he puts pride in his work.
Not saying that if a wheelbuilder/shop doesn't do this they aren't quality, but if they do, they most definitely are.
Not saying that if a wheelbuilder/shop doesn't do this they aren't quality, but if they do, they most definitely are.
#20
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From: Eastcoast
Bikes: Cocaine the white stallion, Custom Witcomb pista, (Being restored) 80's Pogliaghi Track, (destroyed) RAP Round Breeze NJS, Cannondale Jekyll 900, 84/5 Pinarello Montello (all italian)
Originally Posted by shants
sheldon, while he may have good information, is, and always will be, a ******bag.
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#21
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From: SF
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I don't mind the stickers, as long as there's not too many of them. I kept them on my suzue promax, figured that at least 20 bucks of the cost were the stickers, might as well keep them on.
#22
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From: oakland, ca
Bikes: heh, like that info would fit here...
I've built three wheelsets this week and found that having the stickers on while building greatly helps the process. When I find out where the wheel is out of true, I generally count up or down from either the sticker or the valve hole to remember which spokes need adjustment. Having two points of reference makes it much easier than having one (and a small, hard to find one at that.) I pulled the stickers off of two of the wheelsets after building and had no trouble at all with the removal (third set was sold to someone else, so I thought I'd let them decide on stickers or no.)
#23
jack of one or two trades
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Originally Posted by shants
sheldon, while he may have good information, is, and always will be, a ******bag.
#24
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
I like Sheldon's little tips like this for wheelbuilding. It's kind of a "code" that let's you judge the work somebody does, even if it is based on something stupid. If your wheelbuilder takes the time to orient the rim that way, put the valve hole over the hub marking, and put the tire on so the label is opposite the valve hole, it's a sign that he puts pride in his work.
Not saying that if a wheelbuilder/shop doesn't do this they aren't quality, but if they do, they most definitely are.
Not saying that if a wheelbuilder/shop doesn't do this they aren't quality, but if they do, they most definitely are.




