riser bars for urban riding
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: NYC
Bikes: All 70s and 80s, only steel.
Originally Posted by pinkrobe
Risers are weak. Get some $7 flat bars and cut them to 20" or less. Bonus points if you can find a bar with a defunct bike company logo on them - GT, Kooka, Nishiki, etc.
Ah, disagree. I have flats, and the lack of curve is antithetical to the aesthetic to me. Plus, I like the little bit of drop afforded to be able to change hand position a bit.
#27
Originally Posted by peripatetic
Ah, disagree. I have flats, and the lack of curve is antithetical to the aesthetic to me.
#29
Senior Member
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Originally Posted by teiaperigosa
although I don't rock risers, my road drops are 37cm center to center at the ends...the size really works for me squeezing in between cars, but not too small that I don't have leverage (I'm 6'2"...long arms)
Arm length shouldn't have anything to do with it unless maybe your top tube is way too short, causing your elbows to stick way out.
Unless you're build really weirdly, your shoulders (or hips, in which case the narrow bars don't matter) will be the widest part of you, and the 42 cm Syntace bars I just got are narrower than the 44cm bars on my fix are way narrower than the 24" riser (-5 degree for a +/- level stem, for fashion's sake) bars on my ss city bike, to the point of being uncomfortable. In ten years of riding bikes in the city, with bars this wide (or wider), I've never hit a rearview or something sticking off a car, except with a rolled up tube mailer sticking out of my bag. It's the engine, not the machine.
I know some of you are skinnier and narrower than I am, but I know a doofus in Philly who rides handlebars that are so narrow that the ends of his hands hang off the ends of them "so I can get between cars" - he's max 5'4" and his handlebars are easily 4" narrower than his shoulders. And his chain squeaks and is soggy and slack (not to mention his loose headset), so I know that even though he does everything "for performance" he has no idea how to ride a bicycle. Show me an adult that has 30 cm c-c shoulders, and I'll show you someone with a birth defect.
Remember that a cat's whiskers help it gauge what it can get through - and if the whiskers are clipped, it'll get stuck, maybe not at the head, but at the middle part, like when the rearview hits you in the kidney.
#31
Barbieri Telefonico
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Bikes: Crappy but operational secondhand Motobecane Messenger
Is one suppossed to follow a formula for handlebar width?
I ride with 42cm handlebars and they are narrower than my shoulders ... still working fine though.
I ride with 42cm handlebars and they are narrower than my shoulders ... still working fine though.
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#32
ganbatte!
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: nyc
Bikes: '06 Vanilla touring, '09 Vanilla cx, Zanconato cx, Moots Psychlo-X RSL prototype, Nagasawa track, Kalavinka track, Black Cat 29er, Cannondale Rize 2 26er, Serotta CRL Legend
Originally Posted by huhenio
Is one suppossed to follow a formula for handlebar width?
I ride with 42cm handlebars and they are narrower than my shoulders ... still working fine though.
I ride with 42cm handlebars and they are narrower than my shoulders ... still working fine though.
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#33
ietrats...
while I have no idea of where your location is, and what city you're talking about....if you've been riding in the city for 10 years and think that your shoulder width is the most relevant in squeezing through cars, then we ride very differently...
mostly the body of cars (down low) and their rear view mirrors ( again, down low) are the determining obstacles for me...if any body part, the width of my hips are most relevant in my experience...
and even whith larger vehicles with protruding mirrors and the like....I find that I am able to move my upper body around (ie...twist my shoulders, or do some boxing stick and move **** with my head) to avoid hitting anything
while you've never hit anything with those bars, I bet you I get through tighter gaps than you...'s all a matter of how you ride
-signed,
uptown
while I have no idea of where your location is, and what city you're talking about....if you've been riding in the city for 10 years and think that your shoulder width is the most relevant in squeezing through cars, then we ride very differently...
mostly the body of cars (down low) and their rear view mirrors ( again, down low) are the determining obstacles for me...if any body part, the width of my hips are most relevant in my experience...
and even whith larger vehicles with protruding mirrors and the like....I find that I am able to move my upper body around (ie...twist my shoulders, or do some boxing stick and move **** with my head) to avoid hitting anything
while you've never hit anything with those bars, I bet you I get through tighter gaps than you...'s all a matter of how you ride
-signed,
uptown
#34
knucklehead
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: East Village, NYC
Bikes: Rocky MT Track, Vivalo, Pista Concept, De Bernardi Track
#35
Freestyle Walker
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: La Grange/Chicago / Illinois/ United States/ Earth
Bikes: Kink Empire Revision B, IRO Mark V*, Standart STA500, Terrible One Barcode*
If you ride any set of handlebars enough, you will get used to them. Ive seen people ride super wide bars, and super narrow bars. I had a set of Nitto bullhorns, but I never used and didnt like using the bullhorn part. So I bought a super cheap no-brand name pair of mountain bike bars and chopped them as short as I could (there is a taper in the way, otherwise I would go shorter) and put some comfy soft grips on.
#36
Originally Posted by teiaperigosa
and even whith larger vehicles with protruding mirrors and the like....I find that I am able to move my upper body around (ie...twist my shoulders, or do some boxing stick and move **** with my head) to avoid hitting anything
#37
Senior Member
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Originally Posted by teiaperigosa
ietrats...
while I have no idea of where your location is, and what city you're talking about....if you've been riding in the city for 10 years and think that your shoulder width is the most relevant in squeezing through cars, then we ride very differently...
mostly the body of cars (down low) and their rear view mirrors ( again, down low) are the determining obstacles for me...if any body part, the width of my hips are most relevant in my experience...
and even whith larger vehicles with protruding mirrors and the like....I find that I am able to move my upper body around (ie...twist my shoulders, or do some boxing stick and move **** with my head) to avoid hitting anything
while you've never hit anything with those bars, I bet you I get through tighter gaps than you...'s all a matter of how you ride
-signed,
uptown
while I have no idea of where your location is, and what city you're talking about....if you've been riding in the city for 10 years and think that your shoulder width is the most relevant in squeezing through cars, then we ride very differently...
mostly the body of cars (down low) and their rear view mirrors ( again, down low) are the determining obstacles for me...if any body part, the width of my hips are most relevant in my experience...
and even whith larger vehicles with protruding mirrors and the like....I find that I am able to move my upper body around (ie...twist my shoulders, or do some boxing stick and move **** with my head) to avoid hitting anything
while you've never hit anything with those bars, I bet you I get through tighter gaps than you...'s all a matter of how you ride
-signed,
uptown
I'm of the XY persuasion, and my shoulders are wider than my hips, even with my winter hibernation layer and baggy pants. I'm also taller than average and ride a taller than average bike, so my hips are usually higher than the bodies of cars.
I don't twist and shout through tight spots though - maybe a little bit of English on the bike to sway a bit, but I wouldn't normally try to ride through any spot I couldn't walk through without pivoting my shoulders. Then again, I don't ride that fast either, and I don't take chances riding in traffic unless it violates rule number one of piloting a vehicle on public roads, which is "Just go."
Different strokes and all. I didn't mean to sound hostile or anything; I think I was mostly railing against the moron I know who rides 8" wide bars and no handbrake with a loose stem and headset on a spanking new sparkling pista (and has already been hit a half a dozen times). I'm sure that's not you, unless you happen to live with my buddy Eric.
#38
Car magnet
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Savannah, Georgia
Bikes: 80's Hoffy track frame 49x15, 80's guerciotti track 47x15(destroyd by a car), '78 ross conversion(RIP, died of old age), '06 fuji track(RIP, hit by a trolley), '75 Alan Aluminum(in the works)

i ride those, they're still pretty wide and i think i'm going to chop another inch or so off each side, but they get the job done and i don't have any trouble splitting traffic and such.
#39
Yay!11! I has!!!1
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From: Eastcoast
Bikes: Cocaine the white stallion, Custom Witcomb pista, (Being restored) 80's Pogliaghi Track, (destroyed) RAP Round Breeze NJS, Cannondale Jekyll 900, 84/5 Pinarello Montello (all italian)
I've moved from my chopped risers on a basically flat stem lifted high to this set up (which I'm pretty sure puts me in the jackass category when it comes to common sense) of flat bars on a drop stem at med height. Both sets of bars are pretty short but I started with them longer. It was a matter of personal choice for me to chop em down so far (although the grips are super long ie: are wider than my hand in wool mittens, and i have since put a light and a front BMX style brake on which should give you an idea of how much bar their is) because I wound up never using the wider part and didn't like all that excess junk hanging off so cut em down. Also I switched to a bike that was a little bigger and liked the sprintier feel.
note: the stem has since been changed to a 100, the 90's on the drop bars on a bigger bike that needed it.
note: the stem has since been changed to a 100, the 90's on the drop bars on a bigger bike that needed it.
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#40
likes avocadoes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 1
From: oakland, ca
Bikes: heh, like that info would fit here...
I just got some 46cm nitto 'noodle' bars mod 177.
https://www.rivendellbicycles.com/web...ape/16111.html
but just because I linked to riv doesn't mean that I'm an old fart of some sort...I just like comfy bikes and comfy bars.
https://www.rivendellbicycles.com/web...ape/16111.html
but just because I linked to riv doesn't mean that I'm an old fart of some sort...I just like comfy bikes and comfy bars.
#45
wild
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 87
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From: philly
Bikes: centurion
this is the only bike i've ever seen that i think risers look good on
https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2006...ennethAlan.htm
https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2006...ennethAlan.htm
#48
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 168
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From: SF
something tells me (and this isn't a harder-than-thou post) that y'all with narrow risers don't ride up many steep hills. I've got 40cm bullhorns, and I wrench the crap out of them getting up the hill into diamond heights here in SF. I couldn't imagine riding on some of the bars posted in this thread.
#49
^^^^ agreed ^^^^
i cut about 2 inches off each end of a set of normal mtb risers and that is as narrow as i will go.
chopping your bars SUPER narrow might be nice till you got to climb a big old hill.
i cut about 2 inches off each end of a set of normal mtb risers and that is as narrow as i will go.
chopping your bars SUPER narrow might be nice till you got to climb a big old hill.
#50
Originally Posted by trackandtrials
something tells me (and this isn't a harder-than-thou post) that y'all with narrow risers don't ride up many steep hills. I've got 40cm bullhorns, and I wrench the crap out of them getting up the hill into diamond heights here in SF. I couldn't imagine riding on some of the bars posted in this thread.




