How hard is it to install a new cog? I want to change out my track cog on an IRO hub. It was just put on about 3 weeks ago but the gearing is too low. I'd like to try and do it myself, obviously it'll be more expensive because I have to purchaser a chain whip and lockring spanner but it's the principal damn it. I wondered though if it was hard to do without stripping the threads etc? Also any recs on best place to order new cog/tools from?

don't know about where to order new cog/tools from, but people say that the hozan lockring pliers are the tool of choice. i'd probably agree, since my experience with lockring wrenches has been realizing that some slip off way easily, and that's a pain.

it's not hard to change cogs. just be careful. clean and grease the threads, and screw it on gently so that you know you're not cross-threading it. be firm when you tighten it down. go for a ride w/o resisting (rely on the hand brake if you have one), mash up a couple of hills, and then re-tighten the lockring.

it's easy to do, just make sure you are unscrewing the lockring and cog the right ways (not tightening it further!) remember the lockring is crossthreaded.

park tools are always good, though more expensive... their chainwhip is great. i've used their lockring tool, and while i got the lockring off and on, it was a little bit of an ordeal... but from what i hear it's that way about all lockring tools. if you are going to invest in a chainwhip though, make sure it's the right size chain, a 3/32 will do you no good getting off a 1/8 cog!

along with queerpunk, i agree make sure everything is clean and greased. things should go smoothly, if the cog and lockring don't go on easily then don't force it!

reverse threaded. crossthreaded is when you eff up threads. reverse threaded is, lefty-tighty, righty-loosey.

as opposed to standard threading, lefty loosey, righty righty.

it's early, give me a break

8am classes are a b*tch

just clearing it up.

i used to complain about 8 am classes too. then i remembered that for high school i got up before six to catch a bus before seven. and now that i'm out of college i realize that 8 am classes aren't that hard, because you don't really have to focus, and it's over in an hour.

How do I determine if it is 1/8 or 3/32 cog? Any rec on where to buy cogs?

check this thread. you can either look on the cog, the package, or measure it yourself to determine its size.

1/8 = BMX chain.. regular chain
3/32 = road chain...

Doesnt matter basically if u have 1/8 or 3/32 because almost all the people is putting trac/bmx chains on their bikes (some people dont, but bikes bought in a lbs have 1/8 chains). So anything u get it will work because obviously the chan is wider and the 3/32 teeth fits anyways.

Cogs usually tight when u are pedaling so is quite easy to know where it tights and were to lose... the only problem are the lock rings, some companies do the lockring thread to tight or lose at the same clock turn as the cog (stupid idea) but well.... i have no clue about the iro hubs but apparently are jusy like any other fixed wheel? did u figure it out if u have a lockring on?

If u want to make a cheapo tool to "unscrew" cogs grab a set of PLIERS VISE GRIP STYLE ...and a piece of 1/8 chain long enough to give 2 turns around the cog. Now I think u figure it out... apply torque obviously in the way to unscrew the cog OK? Ive seen idiots do it at the otherr way and screiwng up the thread... well i saw a guy putting the pedals at the opposite direction, the worse part is that he made it in both pedals, DAMMM!!!!!!!!. I think U can figure it out. All make too much sense...

Cya around...

Oh u can get cogs at ebay... cya

The Hozans are awesome. You can use them to tighten/loosen lockrings that have already been mangled by hook spanners.
Be sure to tighten the cog down hard with the chainwhip before puttin on the cog. A lot of people say just spin around the block which is why we have to deal with so many loose drivetrains. Grease/antisieze is your friend.

your LBS is a great place to pick up a cog. surly, dura ace, whatever... they can probably get it for you. they are only $15 or so, so if you got a "deal" online you might get it for $10... support the LBS!


and i agree about 8am classes not being *that* bad... i think it's the not going to bed until 2-3am that kills it, and only having it 2 days a week instead of every day. throws my sleep pattern off.

support the LBS**********???

Well some lbs's r really good other ones only wants to ripp u off.. at least in here are awefull... The other day talking with a sales man.. I just ask him "if he has one of this ones" (i just handle him a campagnolo fix gear cog) the guy saw him and asked me back.. "is this from a 9 or a 10 sp cassette????"... i just said.. "Thanks, ill go to talk with the mechanic..." even the mechanic got some troubles figuring out what he had in his hands...

At least in here I have to get all the stuff in the web.. nobody carries anything... I think the only serious LBS i found is in a little town called Pourcelville,VA. They carry good stuff but not always what im looking for. Makes sense anyways... shimano low end, (not even think in campy because many have no clue what is it...) and other bike makers have all the market and the market goes to regular people that will use the bike for 1 month so they get cheapo stuff... and if they carry colnago or other good brand they will charge u alooooooooottt... wonder untill when people will understand that they only wants to rip u off...

cya

ps: 4 sure ni texas the situation its different... u guys have a nice league... so probaly it is nice going to an LBS.

[QUOTE=wearyourtruth]your LBS is a great place to pick up a cog. surly, dura ace, whatever... they can probably get it for you. they are only $15 or so, so if you got a "deal" online you might get it for $10... support the LBS!

QUOTE]

My LBS just charged me $30 for a 17t surley cog. Did I get ripped off?

that's a bit expensive, but not terrible. Be wary of cogs that are much cheaper than this- a cog is not a good place to skimp.

plus you're in IDAHO.

True. There are a few fixed riders here (and lots of singlespeeders) but I get the impression that most of them buy online. The LBS did not act like it had helped with too many conversions like the one I am trying to do. See this thread if you wish....https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/175992-i-m-little-frustrated-my-lbs.html

To make sure you don't thread the cog on crooked, start by resting it atop the hub and turning the wrong way (counter-clockwise, as though you were unscrewing it), very slowly. Within one revolution, you will feel the cog pop down into the threads as though it got to a comfortable place where it wanted to be. Stop there and start tightening. You can do the same thing with the lockring, but remember that it threads the other way, so start by turning it clockwise till you feel it get to the happy place.

There's always this alternative to installing/removing a cog without a chainwhip: The Rotafixa Method

Of course, you still need to get a lockring tool. But the abovementioned method does work.


Once you've installed/removed the cog and ring you'll be surprised how simple it was.

I used to do that when i didnt have the tools w/me... works super fine the problem is the paint...

Cya