Quick question -

I picked up this Record track hub at the swap meet yesterday, and I'm wondering how I get the little cap things off. Do I just jam something into that little hole and yank on it? Are they threaded? They seem stuck on there pretty good - maybe they don't come off?

I want to get in there and do some serious cleaning of the races and cones. I don't think that they're pitted, but it would be easier to tell if I could gte them off.

Thanks!

just pry it out with a screwdriver? If you're talking about that cap that surrounds the cone, that's what i do. It'll pop out.

Yeah, you can see it there in the very center with the little dot. I don't know if it would bend or something possibly. I don't want to mess anything up trying to fix it.

mine took very little pressure and they popped right out.

nice stufff u got...

I would leave the dust cap on unless you know what you're doing. Just use a q-tip to clean behind them.

I overhauled my Campag record road hub and it looks exactly the same from that angle so I am assuming that they're similar. If they are then you can just pob the cap off with a screwdriver at the edge or something softer in the axle hole. The little hole in the dust cap is to allow extra grease out when you pump new grease into the middle of the hub.

The only problem with this is that it is damn hard to get a q tip into the right place. The dust cap has a u shaped channel on the inside that gets nicely filled with old grease. You would need a set of dentist's tools to clean it properly without taking it off the hub. If the hub has relatively clean grease on the races you could leave the dustcap on and reassemble the hub before pumping it full of grease from the middle (assuming it has the little grease port covered by a clip).

The rear doesn't have the middle grease hole. The front one does. The caps popped off fine - I just didn't know if they were different than others that I've worked with and didn't want to break something by accident.

After cleaning the rear, there look to be 3 worn spots on the drive side on the races. Depending on the angle, you can see them, and if you take a pen or a dental tool and run along the metal you can feel it get a little rough. Pretty close to how my DA rear hub is, and I was told that was 'past it's servicable life' by a wrench at the LBS. Bummer. The finish problems on the flanges aren't cleaning up as nice as I'd like, either.

Still, the cog and lockring are in perfect shape and probably worth what I paid for the hub, so I think it was a good deal. Anyone happen to know if the threading on the Campy cogs and lockring is going to be different than other more modern hubs?

Thanks again.

The cog will be compatible with any brand.. The lockring is different from the Shimano ones, but some will take it.. Miche and such..

I think the cog will be standard, but your lockring threading is almost certainly different. The ISO standard (dura ace, etc) is 1.29" x 24 tpi, but Campy uses the Italian standard of 1.32" x 24 tpi.

I think Phil hubs use the Italian size.

Hmm - the cog looks like the beefiest part of the whole thing, so that's good to know. I haven't rocked a 15 in awhile, but I'm usually 14 or 16, so it could be a good medium. I'm assuming that for the lockring I couldn't use a Phil or DA on the Campy hub once I get it back together? It doesn't list the TPI, so I don't know how far off it would be.

And yeah, I could probably be using the search feature. And question should have been plural in the thread title. I'm lazy...

This is starting to make a little sense - the lockring threaded on perfectly onto the tubular wheelset (now toast) that came with my Bianchi. But the Phil lockring I have wouldn't go onto my DA hubs. But it does thread on to the Campy perfect.... Surly must fit somewhere in the middle, because I've used the Phil on a Surly fine. Weird.

I think surly´s threadcutter is dull. You always have to muscle it on, it is not smooth even on a Surly hub..