Ken Cox

I just spent my vacation money upgrading my Pista with various parts, including a Phil Bottom Bracket and a Stronglight crank.
When I got the bike home from my lbs (it rode like a dream), I put the bike up on the workstand and spun the crank.
The chain sounded a little noisier than before (silent before); and, looking at the spinning crank, chain and cog from the rear, the chain seemed to bend just a bit to the left (center).
It my not bend at all, and I may only imagine it or an optical illusion makes it look that way.
Because of the tiny amount of bend/misalignment (possibly imagined), I feel a little weird asking my lbs to play with it; and so, I'd like to experiment with moving my bottom bracket myself, to see if I can get a totally silent chainline.
I see that Phil sells a "consumer" grade Portable Installation Tool.
Does anyone have any experience with adjusting their own Phil Bottom Bracket, and will this tool accomplish this?
On Monday I'll give Phil a call, or send an e-mail, but I thought I get some feedback here, first.

treechunk

I would say that it's perfectly reasonable to buy the tool, but your LBS should really take care of the labor for free. If they install something incorrectly, they have a responsibility to fix it. If you ask nice, they might let you watch, which would allow you to know what you're doing when you get the tool.

r-dub

For chainline adjustment, I'd definitely recommend getting two of the tools and two big adjustable wrenches. For simple tightening/loosening, one will do w/ British threading (two necessary w/ italian threads because one will loosen as the other tightens.) If your LBS knows what they're doing, they used blue loctite on the threads, so if it's set (which it has by now) it's best to take them all the way out, clean off the threads, and reapply a few drops of the blue stuff.

Rev.Chuck

It is a good tool to have if you like tools. Once you get a PHil in the right spot you may not remove it for several years.
I use a Park alignment tool, it clamps to the cog, then align the crank off of that. Usually it takes one rough set to figure how close you are, removal, reinstall, and then a final check. Then I take the thing apart, one side at a time, and locktite the cups in. I also like to grease up the inside of the cup where the bearing sits to ward of creaks.