I would of posted this in the bicycle mechanics forum but I figured I will get more definitive answers from this crew.

I am installing a new drivetrain and have questions. (I used the search-did not find what I was looking for.)

This is what I am working with: Bianchi Pista Concept 04 frame (finally time to build) Campy Record 165 cranks with 48 tooth chainring. Phil Wood 110.5 Campy specific bottom bracket with mounting rings. Izumi 1/8" chain, used dura-ace 16 tooth track cog with lockring. I've set up everything so far but without locktite on the BB. My drivetrain sounds loud so here are my questions for troubleshooting:
1. Any recommendation on installing the Phil Wood BB mounting rings so that they are uniform. Should I use calipers/rulers to measure the amount on each side of the BB shell? Count how many rotations as I install either side?
2. I do not have a torque wrench...how tight should my crankbolts be? Tight, Tight-tight or Super-tight?
3. Do I really want to locktite the mounting rings into my frame? Will this pose a problem adjusting the chainline during my final install?
4. Since I already spent so much money on bling components should I spring for a new track cog?

thanks for any input.

1) Just count/eyeball exposed threads.
2) Very tight. Inbetween tight-tight and super-tight
3) Phil says use loctite, I use loctite.
4) DA are very nice. The only upgrade to them, imo, are Phils, which I have on one of my bikes and love.

Thanks, did you still grease the threads in your BB shell in addition to using locktite?

Loudness is usually either: chainline, lack of grease/lube, worn components.

I'd probably guess lack of lube, but it might be chainline. Should be 42mm up front if you're using a track hub out back. Measure from the center of the seat tube to the center of the chainring.

An unlubed chain will make some serious noise. Also, a really tight chain will make more noise than a slack(er) chain. Lastly, are there tight spots in your rotation? Some stuff to think about.

Grease and loctite do not play well together, I've heard.
No grease. Just loctite.

Vomitron's points about lube/chain tension are right on.
Check those out.

yeh, I have yet to lube this new chain...any tips on getting off that gross anti-rust crap they put on new chains?

Mineral spirits?

the best degreaser by far.

i'm sort of intimidated by the thought of installing an adjustable bb by my lonesome. i'd probably shadow a professional if i had records going on a phil.

if one installs the cups, cog, cranks and chain and it doesn't line up, does one have to take everything off to adjust the cups?

ProLink cleans that stuff off chains as well as lubricates. Run the chain through a rag moist with it, then lube with ProLink as usual.

No.
You take two phil BB tools and two adjustable wrenches and loosen one side/tighten the other side until it's lined up how you need.

It's a lot easier than it sounds.
I did mine all by myself without any experience.

Well, yes. You need to remove the chain and cranks.

too bad phil tools dont come with a u-shaped head

With the Phil bottom bracket, you have the luxury of dialing your chainline in to be dead nuts perfect, so you might as well do it. Once you get it all put together the first time, use a dial caliper or fairly precise ruler to measure your chainline at both ends of the chain. If you did everything right and have the right parts, you'll probably be pretty close. Do the math to get the difference between your two measurements and then move the BB sideways by that amount, reassemble, and measure again.

If that DA cog is worn very much, you might as well put a new one on even if you just get another dura ace. DA's cogs are of more than adequate quality for the job; no need for a Phil unless you want to spend the money.

You might consider a gearing change though. I don't know your background, but 48/16 is on the tall side for what I like to ride on the streets where I live. A 17 tooth cog would take you down to a slightly lower gear, about 74 gear inches compared to 79, but then you would have 17 skid patches instead of just one that 48/16 gives you. If you're going to be doing any skidding, you should think about this.

Thanks for the input. I have been riding 48x16 for over 5 years on the street and my knees have yet complain (but my tires do get shredded.) I was planning on taking my new build to the velodrome. It took me this long to use a track bike for its intended purpose – go figure.