Loose BB (loctite or scrap?)
#1
Thread Starter
Don't sweat the technique
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Logan Square, Chicago
Bikes: 1973 Fuji Flair fixed, 1971 3-speed schwinn breeze cruiser, 1980s Panasonic Village fixed
Loose BB (loctite or scrap?)
(I tried to search but I'm getting time-out errors. sorry folks)
The non-drive side of my BB keeps coming loose. This is an olllld fuji flair
beater and the BB is stock, but i've never had problems with it before until
recently when I de/regreased the bearings and lubed up the threads. I'm
pretty sure I put it together correctly, too.
Anyway, replacement isn't an option right now. Is loctite the answer or am I
missing something that I should check?
The non-drive side of my BB keeps coming loose. This is an olllld fuji flair
beater and the BB is stock, but i've never had problems with it before until
recently when I de/regreased the bearings and lubed up the threads. I'm
pretty sure I put it together correctly, too.
Anyway, replacement isn't an option right now. Is loctite the answer or am I
missing something that I should check?
#5
Thread Starter
Don't sweat the technique
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Logan Square, Chicago
Bikes: 1973 Fuji Flair fixed, 1971 3-speed schwinn breeze cruiser, 1980s Panasonic Village fixed
well yeah, I can budget 12 bills. I just assumed that if loctite wasn't the answer I would have to replace the entire BB
#8
Originally Posted by chuck_norris
That's cyberdick to you.
Why'd you call me earlier?
Why'd you call me earlier?
[/Gainesville Hijack]
#9
無くなった

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,072
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From: Sci-Fi Wasabi
Bikes: I built the Bianchi track bike back up today.
Originally Posted by kisha
well yeah, I can budget 12 bills. I just assumed that if loctite wasn't the answer I would have to replace the entire BB
If it's the threads on the shell itself that are stripped (the sealed unit will come undone) you might be able to re-tap it. Unfortunatly, that wasn't the case for me, since I have an Italian BB. So I used blue loctite, and it's held up well for 7-8 months. I haven't tried taking it out yet, though the only sealed one I could find was a couple of mm off for chainline...
But it should hold. So that would be like a $4 tube of loctite (or what you already have) instead of a $12 BB... That might end up needing the loctite anyways...
#10
Thread Starter
Don't sweat the technique
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Logan Square, Chicago
Bikes: 1973 Fuji Flair fixed, 1971 3-speed schwinn breeze cruiser, 1980s Panasonic Village fixed
Update:
threads are fine. cups aren't cracked. My LBS told me that the cause could've been that one of the cages was bent, so that could have been the problem. I got rid of the old bearing cages and replaced the old bearings with new bearings greased up real good. tightened until my hands turned red, went on a 10 mile ride and my **** was wobbling again. So either my fat ass is too much for my BB, or it's too cheap to handle my "aggressive" riding. I'm going to try loctite tonight before I throw it in the alley.
threads are fine. cups aren't cracked. My LBS told me that the cause could've been that one of the cages was bent, so that could have been the problem. I got rid of the old bearing cages and replaced the old bearings with new bearings greased up real good. tightened until my hands turned red, went on a 10 mile ride and my **** was wobbling again. So either my fat ass is too much for my BB, or it's too cheap to handle my "aggressive" riding. I'm going to try loctite tonight before I throw it in the alley.





