Need Hub Recommendations!
#1
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Need Bianchi San Jose Hub Recommendations!
They can be double-sided, so long as one side is free. I just got a Bianchi San Jose ss/cx frameset. It's 130mm in the back and probably cannot get to 42mm on the front because of the wider stays. Problem is, most 130mm hubs are made for a 42mm chainline, and I think this one was made for 52mm MTB SS spacing in front. Every wheelset I've come across, from IRO to Paul, uses hubs that either have 42mm chainline or 135mm spacing. I need a wheelset with 130mm spacing and 52mm chainline.
Any wheelset recommendations/ideas? My last resort will be either sending the frame out to be cold-set respaced to 135, or trying a road cassete wheel with cog spacers and one of those nashbar bolt-on skewers. Anyone had experience keeping a ss/fixed wheelin place with those? Thanks in advance!
Any wheelset recommendations/ideas? My last resort will be either sending the frame out to be cold-set respaced to 135, or trying a road cassete wheel with cog spacers and one of those nashbar bolt-on skewers. Anyone had experience keeping a ss/fixed wheelin place with those? Thanks in advance!
#2
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
You could try a normal road hub with a Surly fixxer, though I'm not sure what kind of a chainline that will leave you with. Anybody using a fixxer have any measurements?
#4
don't pedal backwards...
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From: Minneapolis
Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker set up for commuting and loaded touring, old Sekine road frame converted to fixed-gear, various beaters and weird bikes, waiting on the frame for my Surly Big Dummy build
How about this: Cold-set the frame to like 140mm. It's actually really easy and you can do it yourself at home with some careful measuring and a big two-by-four for leverage. Cold-setting is actually just a fancy term for somewhat carefully bending your rear stays to a slightly different position. (This is assuming you have a steel frame. Carbon, aluminum, etc. are a whole different ball game with regards to cold-setting)
With the super-wide frame, now score yourself a simple flip-flop hub with 120mm spacing and an extra-long axle (Formula, etc.) and space the non-drive side out to get an off-center 140mm spaced hub. The 42mm chainline now becomes a 52mm chainline, and you have one weird-looking rear wheel. The wheel will have to be dished to get the rim centered on the (no-longer symmetrical) axle, but probably no more than most road wheels are.
edit: changed the numbers slightly to fix my math. 140mm instead of my previously stated 145mm should work perfectly.
With the super-wide frame, now score yourself a simple flip-flop hub with 120mm spacing and an extra-long axle (Formula, etc.) and space the non-drive side out to get an off-center 140mm spaced hub. The 42mm chainline now becomes a 52mm chainline, and you have one weird-looking rear wheel. The wheel will have to be dished to get the rim centered on the (no-longer symmetrical) axle, but probably no more than most road wheels are.
edit: changed the numbers slightly to fix my math. 140mm instead of my previously stated 145mm should work perfectly.
#5
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
You could try a normal road hub with a Surly fixxer, though I'm not sure what kind of a chainline that will leave you with. Anybody using a fixxer have any measurements?
Originally Posted by mattface
aren't Paul hubs 45-46mm?
#6
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Originally Posted by MacG
How about this: Cold-set the frame to like 140mm. It's actually really easy and you can do it yourself at home with some careful measuring and a big two-by-four for leverage. Cold-setting is actually just a fancy term for somewhat carefully bending your rear stays to a slightly different position. (This is assuming you have a steel frame. Carbon, aluminum, etc. are a whole different ball game with regards to cold-setting)
But I'm posting here to find out if anyone knows about a wheelset I can just go and buy so I don't have to send the frame out. If I do have it done, I'll likely go to 135, which will give me enough 52mm chainline options to work with. Kogswell and Surly hubs come to mind, and I'm certain there are more.
#7
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
Can a 135 Phil hub be respaced with a 130 axle?
#9
jack of one or two trades
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Originally Posted by B17
They can be double-sided, so long as one side is free. ...
... or trying a road cassete wheel with cog spacers and one of those nashbar bolt-on skewers. Anyone had experience keeping a ss/fixed wheelin place with those? Thanks in advance!
... or trying a road cassete wheel with cog spacers and one of those nashbar bolt-on skewers. Anyone had experience keeping a ss/fixed wheelin place with those? Thanks in advance!
#10
spin
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Champaign, IL
Bikes: raleigh m-60, azonic steelhead, schwinn world sport fixed gear
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Okay, sorry I misunderstood. I thought you wanted a flip-flop. I take back my recommendation of the fixxer, and say go with the road wheel with cog+spacers, and get a chain tug to keep the wheel in place. That will allow you to keep a QR skewer, and keep chain tension, and good chainline. Also, it is easy and cheap.
#11
i am sure that i hate you
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: 703
Bikes: 'Cha-ruzu Fosuta Orusan Kein' Fuji Track (2005), Schwinn Tank MTB (?), Fuji Royale (1979)
I think WI ENO hubs are variable spaced and have a 48 mm chainline.
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#12
umm.. yeah, just get any road freehub and a cassette cog that will give you the ratio you want, then fill up the rest of the freehub body with spacers and you can put the cog wherever the heck on the freehub body you want, getting whatever chainline you want.
#13
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Okay, sorry I misunderstood. I thought you wanted a flip-flop. I take back my recommendation of the fixxer, and say go with the road wheel with cog+spacers, and get a chain tug to keep the wheel in place. That will allow you to keep a QR skewer, and keep chain tension, and good chainline. Also, it is easy and cheap.





