Carbon Steerer Tubes
#1
Thread Starter
scottish bike terrorist
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: C-Bus OH
Bikes: C.Itoh Fixed Conversion, Trek Y3, countless parts bicycles
Carbon Steerer Tubes
Do you trust em? Can you back it up?
I'm trying to spec out my new bike, and I'm if getting a fork with a carbon steerer tube will be an issue.
I'm trying to spec out my new bike, and I'm if getting a fork with a carbon steerer tube will be an issue.
#4
Back to being a Clyde....
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Santa Clara
Bikes: Giant OCR1(specialized carbon seatpost,Terry Fly sadle, Syntace C2): Leader TT frame, Easton EC70fork, Aerolite bars, nashbar bullhorn, Titan Wheels: Fuji Track Pro(2003)
Originally Posted by blsecres
George Hincapie snapped one at this years Paris-Roubaix


NO HE DIDN'T...that steerer was ALLOY, not Carbon.
"The last crash apparently a result of the first incident happened when his aluminum steer tube broke at the intersection with the stem."
#6
LF for the accentdeprived
Joined: May 2005
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From: Budapest, Hungary
Hincapie's steerer was Al, and he crashed it earlier.
As to the original point, dunno. Sheldon says he doesn't recommend them, and, other thing being equal, I'd pick an Al steerer to save a few bucks and have more peace of mind.
As to the original point, dunno. Sheldon says he doesn't recommend them, and, other thing being equal, I'd pick an Al steerer to save a few bucks and have more peace of mind.
#7
Senior Member
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From: Pittsburgh!
Bikes: Track bike, road fixed, cross fixed, two single speed mountain.
Aluminum steerers can actually be a lighter system than carbon steerers since you don't have to use a bulky reinfoorcing plug in them. The all carbon fork may be lighter, but factor in that special plug and the aluminum steerer with convention starnut can come out ahead.
#8
I was hoping that picture wouldn't make its way over here...
Let me give the Tivo version...
Pix of broken bike.
Smug anti carbon zealots point fingers
Carbon zealots spin doctor the pix
Trek jumps in and starts their own spin...including flaming every other carbon manufacturers (aka offshore)
Eventual conclusion...pro riders kick the snot out of their bikes
<cue the carbon vs alloy vs everything else flamewar>
Let me give the Tivo version...
Pix of broken bike.
Smug anti carbon zealots point fingers
Carbon zealots spin doctor the pix
Trek jumps in and starts their own spin...including flaming every other carbon manufacturers (aka offshore)
Eventual conclusion...pro riders kick the snot out of their bikes
<cue the carbon vs alloy vs everything else flamewar>
#9
i rode a full carbon fork (in addition to the carbon post, bars, and other stuff) on my road bike for 3 or 4 years with absolutely zero problems. rode it all over rough nyc streets, rain, snow, thousands of training miles, group rides, racing, the occasional minor crash, and never a problem.
i'd use a carbon fork without a second thought.
i'd use a carbon fork without a second thought.
#10
It's funny how anti-carbon people are, without realizing there's a reason why everyone uses it: strength. You think track racers give two shts about weight in comparison to other factors? No, it's strength, and stiffness that matter. It just so happens that you can achieve many times the strength of other materials for a fraction of the weight, without rider weight limits like in Ti.
As for "catastrophic failure," you do realize aluminum only bends once, right? Then it snaps? And that the joint between aluminum and carbon is going to be weaker than a solid piece of carbon? If water enters the carbon matrix and the carbon isn't properly insulated (fiberglass), you'll get some nasty galvanic corrosion (hell, without insulation you'll get it without the water).
If you can afford it, go for the cabron steerer tube. You'll have to be a little more careful with putting on the stem, but if you're not a ******, it'll give you a stiffer, yet more shock-absorbing ride.
As for "catastrophic failure," you do realize aluminum only bends once, right? Then it snaps? And that the joint between aluminum and carbon is going to be weaker than a solid piece of carbon? If water enters the carbon matrix and the carbon isn't properly insulated (fiberglass), you'll get some nasty galvanic corrosion (hell, without insulation you'll get it without the water).
If you can afford it, go for the cabron steerer tube. You'll have to be a little more careful with putting on the stem, but if you're not a ******, it'll give you a stiffer, yet more shock-absorbing ride.
#11
Senior Member

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From: birmingham
Bikes: a tvt soon to become a s/s...
what he ^ says.
*if* you get one, after you tighten the stem, don't twist it or anything. if you didn't get the stem on square first time, loosen everything fully and try again. otherwise you risk scoring the carbon, which then would be where it would crack.
also make sure you have a torque wrench. carbon doesn't like over-torqued bolts.
fsnl
sparky
*if* you get one, after you tighten the stem, don't twist it or anything. if you didn't get the stem on square first time, loosen everything fully and try again. otherwise you risk scoring the carbon, which then would be where it would crack.
also make sure you have a torque wrench. carbon doesn't like over-torqued bolts.
fsnl
sparky
#14
Hacksaw with a special blade, mind you. Depends on the manufacturer but high tooth count or ceramic blades are the norm. Always read the installation instructions or take it to a shop.
#15
Thread Starter
scottish bike terrorist
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From: C-Bus OH
Bikes: C.Itoh Fixed Conversion, Trek Y3, countless parts bicycles
Awesome, I'm gonna go for the carbon steerer, and I'm going to have my LBS cut it for me. Thanks for all the help!
#16
re:member
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Cracow, Poland
Bikes: unknown make TT bike, fixed; Romet Sport, gone; titanium Pinarello gone;Colnago with Campy C-Record/Super Record,on it's way; Funny Gianni Motta; Buehler track, Polrad track chrome; titanium MTB on 28'', fixed; Tri Wheeler, fixed
Originally Posted by screamingveg
Awesome, I'm gonna go for the carbon steerer, and I'm going to have my LBS cut it for me. Thanks for all the help!
#18
LF for the accentdeprived
Joined: May 2005
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From: Budapest, Hungary
Originally Posted by vomitron
It's funny how anti-carbon people are, without realizing there's a reason why everyone uses it: strength.
#19
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Originally Posted by vomitron
It's funny how anti-carbon people are, without realizing there's a reason why everyone uses it: strength. You think track racers give two shts about weight in comparison to other factors? No, it's strength, and stiffness that matter. It just so happens that you can achieve many times the strength of other materials for a fraction of the weight, without rider weight limits like in Ti.
.
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#20
ALso, no star nut, just a compression plug which gives the stem an internal "backing" to prevent deformation.
Obviously, threadless only. I just installed my new spez. carbon pro fork w/carbon steerer. Dropped more than 1/4 a lb with the fork alone switching from a reynolds comp.
Obviously, threadless only. I just installed my new spez. carbon pro fork w/carbon steerer. Dropped more than 1/4 a lb with the fork alone switching from a reynolds comp.
#21
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Originally Posted by LóFarkas
The steerer is a different story. Everyone agrees that carbon doesn't really like things being clamped onto it. If you overtighten, it can and will crack the carbon. I guess its surface is not as hard as metal anyway, so the edge ot the clamp could damage the carbon if it has burrs, or you crash etc.





