is there anything really wrong with the specialized langster?
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,990
Likes: 36
From: Williston, VT
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-T, Soma Rush, Razesa Racer, ⅔ of a 1983 Holdsworth Professional, Nishiki Riviera Winter Bike
It will eat your soul, and leave you an empty shell of a man.
Other than that though, the Langster is fine.
Other than that though, the Langster is fine.
#29
I sing the body electric
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: PHL
Bikes: 2006 CrossCheck, Fuji Track 2004
1 U.S. dollar = 1.10149991 Canadian dollars
Therefore, a $600 USD Mark V is $660.89 Canadian (or $60.89 C more than the Langster).
I will point out that if you can find a fuji dealer, i think they are $500 USD or $550.79 USD.
Also, Spicer Cycles has frame&forks for $200 USD (220 Canadian) which you can build up from.
Therefore, a $600 USD Mark V is $660.89 Canadian (or $60.89 C more than the Langster).
I will point out that if you can find a fuji dealer, i think they are $500 USD or $550.79 USD.
Also, Spicer Cycles has frame&forks for $200 USD (220 Canadian) which you can build up from.
#31
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 706
Likes: 1
From: Portland, OR
Some cheap single bolt posts slip and creak, some are all fine and dandy. I find the Langster post slips and on me after a few rides and creaks all the time. I have a cheapo Kalloy single bolt on another bike that's stayed put for years. I also have a single bolt post on my road bike that stays put. With all the single bolt posts I've had, I'd say half slipped and that the Langster's post is the worst. I think on the Langster a carbon post would be good because it'd smooth out the ride a little. I've been pretty anti-carbon on most parts of the bike, but after a few long rides I'm reconsidering one on my Langster.
#32
ganbatte!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 0
From: nyc
Bikes: '06 Vanilla touring, '09 Vanilla cx, Zanconato cx, Moots Psychlo-X RSL prototype, Nagasawa track, Kalavinka track, Black Cat 29er, Cannondale Rize 2 26er, Serotta CRL Legend
Originally Posted by LóFarkas
Isn't it possible that it was not tightened down properly when you *first* rode it and the first slipping(s) ground down the serrated surfaces?
Considering there are so many good posts available in the aftermarket for 20-30 bucks, swapping it out isn't a huge deal. Just haven't done it yet, so I'm annoyed
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3RENSHO SRA | CO-MOTION CROSS | SAMSON | KALAVINKA | DE ROSA | DE ROSA PRO | CANNONDALE SIX13 | CO-MOTION NOR'WESTER
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3RENSHO SRA | CO-MOTION CROSS | SAMSON | KALAVINKA | DE ROSA | DE ROSA PRO | CANNONDALE SIX13 | CO-MOTION NOR'WESTER
many many bikey photos
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
It was anice set up for 400 but it is just a rough ride, they are fine but you will probably get a better bike by shopping around used stuff and finding something else. By better I mean something you will like more and thus ride more. The AL straight for is just too much... Other than that go for it. But used is not a bad way to go. (keep the front brake for the time being) any time you are cutting corners you risk getting a drive train (specifically hub, cog, chain) that may not be able to handle the rigors of fixed riding (all road parts are not designed for this, most track parts aren't either).
brakes are always a good idea.
The langster looks good with wide slight rise bars and oury blue grips. Rides better too.
brakes are always a good idea.
The langster looks good with wide slight rise bars and oury blue grips. Rides better too.
#35
C21 H30 O2
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Oakland
Bikes: more bikes than toes and fingers
There sure are a lot of complainers on this site. I've had mine for two years now and despite its bad reputation because it's an off the shelf rig made by a large company, I have to say that I quite like it. [I also have a custom Rock Lobster, for the track and when I want to ride something with a bit more bling.]
I ride mine a lot and have not had a single problem with the components. I have replaced the bars (with bullhorns), put ultegra breaks and aero levers on, different seatpost and saddle, and am running time pedals. No carbon fork...yet. The wheels have held up perfectly for me, and I am not that light. I do, however, know how to true wheels properly. I think the biggest disaster to wheels is when someone who doesn't really understand wheels, starts to work on them, and messes up the tension - then they are bound to only get worse and worse.
I find the geometry quite comfortable - it rides like a road frame rather than a track frame, but I primarily use it for the road so that is perfect. I use it for training rides and for commuting. I have ridden it on the track, and have had no problems there, although the geometry is a bit slack. It's more about the rider than the bike, on the track. It is stiff, but I don't find it all that bad - at least not as bad as folks here seem to think.
IMHO - can't go wrong with it, but there may be better options out there depending on your preferences.
I ride mine a lot and have not had a single problem with the components. I have replaced the bars (with bullhorns), put ultegra breaks and aero levers on, different seatpost and saddle, and am running time pedals. No carbon fork...yet. The wheels have held up perfectly for me, and I am not that light. I do, however, know how to true wheels properly. I think the biggest disaster to wheels is when someone who doesn't really understand wheels, starts to work on them, and messes up the tension - then they are bound to only get worse and worse.
I find the geometry quite comfortable - it rides like a road frame rather than a track frame, but I primarily use it for the road so that is perfect. I use it for training rides and for commuting. I have ridden it on the track, and have had no problems there, although the geometry is a bit slack. It's more about the rider than the bike, on the track. It is stiff, but I don't find it all that bad - at least not as bad as folks here seem to think.
IMHO - can't go wrong with it, but there may be better options out there depending on your preferences.
#36
ganbatte!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 0
From: nyc
Bikes: '06 Vanilla touring, '09 Vanilla cx, Zanconato cx, Moots Psychlo-X RSL prototype, Nagasawa track, Kalavinka track, Black Cat 29er, Cannondale Rize 2 26er, Serotta CRL Legend
Originally Posted by RedDeMartini
regarding the seatposts...are y'all greasing the threads?
You can't get it tight enough to stay without grease.
I see it a lot on shortcut builds and it causes noise and loosening.
You can't get it tight enough to stay without grease.
I see it a lot on shortcut builds and it causes noise and loosening.
__________________
3RENSHO SRA | CO-MOTION CROSS | SAMSON | KALAVINKA | DE ROSA | DE ROSA PRO | CANNONDALE SIX13 | CO-MOTION NOR'WESTER
many many bikey photos
3RENSHO SRA | CO-MOTION CROSS | SAMSON | KALAVINKA | DE ROSA | DE ROSA PRO | CANNONDALE SIX13 | CO-MOTION NOR'WESTER
many many bikey photos
#37
Originally Posted by celephaiz
1 U.S. dollar = 1.10149991 Canadian dollars
Therefore, a $600 USD Mark V is $660.89 Canadian (or $60.89 C more than the Langster).
I will point out that if you can find a fuji dealer, i think they are $500 USD or $550.79 USD.
Also, Spicer Cycles has frame&forks for $200 USD (220 Canadian) which you can build up from.
Therefore, a $600 USD Mark V is $660.89 Canadian (or $60.89 C more than the Langster).
I will point out that if you can find a fuji dealer, i think they are $500 USD or $550.79 USD.
Also, Spicer Cycles has frame&forks for $200 USD (220 Canadian) which you can build up from.





