chainline with paul hubs
#1
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Biggity-bam
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From: West Lafayette IN, Ann Arbor MI
Bikes: Pista Concept, Fetish beater, Fuji road
chainline with paul hubs
Sorry for another "fix my problem" thread, but I'm fed up with my poor chainline. I'm running DA track cranks with the Shimano BB (109.5mm spindle). The rear wheel I'm using is a Paul hub with a 1/8 EAI cog. Oh, and a SRAM PC-1 chaing. The cog seams much farther out than the chainring. What can I do to fix the problem? Thanks, its annoying the heck outta me.
Last edited by Learn_not2burn; 06-23-06 at 07:43 AM.
#3
Member's Only
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From: MPLS
Bikes: Bridgesetone RB-1 fixie, Surly CrossCheck, Surly Instigator, Salsa AlaCarte, Bianchi Timberwolf SS
or the real answer is go into the lbs and get a longer bottom bracket. (they've got tools to do the measurements)
#6
jack of one or two trades
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Originally Posted by dirtyphotons
is the chainring on the inside or outside of the crank spider? if it's on the outside, and you need to go farther out, these might help.
#7
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Biggity-bam
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: West Lafayette IN, Ann Arbor MI
Bikes: Pista Concept, Fetish beater, Fuji road
Son of a *****, I wish I had known about the ****ing 44mm crap, I would have gone with the Phils. I just used google for "paul hub chainline" and the first thing that popped up was the old BF thread concerning the hubs. Sorry about that, I'm a non-searching ******.
Last edited by Learn_not2burn; 06-23-06 at 09:47 AM.
#9
kill both bass players
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: sacramento
-1 for companies that come up with some non-standard/propriatary junk. paul stuff is cool, but it doesn't make sense to buy it given that the majority of the ss/fix stuff out there is on a different standard.
#10
not so much.
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From: salem, OR
Bikes: EAI Bare Knuckle track, Gianni Motta track, Lemond road bike, Nishiki road fixed conversion, piles of parts.
Originally Posted by padelsbach
-1 for companies that come up with some non-standard/propriatary junk. paul stuff is cool, but it doesn't make sense to buy it given that the majority of the ss/fix stuff out there is on a different standard.
#12
Thread Starter
Biggity-bam
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: West Lafayette IN, Ann Arbor MI
Bikes: Pista Concept, Fetish beater, Fuji road
I tried flipping my EAI cog, and the chain hits the spokes. The Izumi V chain won't even come close to fitting, and the master link on the SRAM PC-1 chain hits, what chain are you guys using that allows you to flip the cog? Anyone use a spacer combined with the flipped cog to produce perfect chainline? I'm probably going to just machine 2 mm off my EAI cog to make it fit. That would be the correct amount to machine off correct?
#13
Senior Member
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oooh, hold a straight yardstick up there along your chainline and measure how far you're off before you start machining. or maybe flip the cog again and see if you can find some cog spacers to get the cog out there.
Gee, I cut it twice, and its still too short...
Gee, I cut it twice, and its still too short...
#14
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Biggity-bam
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From: West Lafayette IN, Ann Arbor MI
Bikes: Pista Concept, Fetish beater, Fuji road
The reason I assumed 2 mm was because The cranks and cog I have work perfectly with a phil hub that has a chainline of 42mm, therefore producing the 2 mm diff. I used a similar method as the yard stick, and found that 2mm in the ball park, but I have never had much accuracy with that method.
#15
A bottom bracket spacer worked for me. A fixed friendly lbs might carry some. You might get lucky and find a 2mm one. Otherwise they got them here:
https://www.rivendellbicycles.com/web...ngs/12209.html
The new bb with longer spindle argument is often questionable too because I've never gotten staight answers on if the difference in lengths is drive side or symmetrically divided.
good luck.
https://www.rivendellbicycles.com/web...ngs/12209.html
The new bb with longer spindle argument is often questionable too because I've never gotten staight answers on if the difference in lengths is drive side or symmetrically divided.
good luck.
#16
jack of one or two trades
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Originally Posted by papalok
A bottom bracket spacer worked for me. A fixed friendly lbs might carry some. You might get lucky and find a 2mm one.











