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chainline with paul hubs

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Old 06-23-06 | 07:22 AM
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chainline with paul hubs

Sorry for another "fix my problem" thread, but I'm fed up with my poor chainline. I'm running DA track cranks with the Shimano BB (109.5mm spindle). The rear wheel I'm using is a Paul hub with a 1/8 EAI cog. Oh, and a SRAM PC-1 chaing. The cog seams much farther out than the chainring. What can I do to fix the problem? Thanks, its annoying the heck outta me.

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Old 06-23-06 | 07:42 AM
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is the chainring on the inside or outside of the crank spider? if it's on the outside, and you need to go farther out, these might help.
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Old 06-23-06 | 07:53 AM
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or the real answer is go into the lbs and get a longer bottom bracket. (they've got tools to do the measurements)
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Old 06-23-06 | 08:23 AM
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there was a thread about this once...
basically the pauls have a 44mm chainline
instead of the standard 42mm.
...so either flip the cog which gets you
fairly close, or get an axle which is 4mm wider.
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Old 06-23-06 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtyphotons
is the chainring on the inside or outside of the crank spider? if it's on the outside, and you need to go farther out, these might help.
He did say DA track cranks...

Ditto on the 44mm chainline -- flipping the cog would be the easist fix and the one I'd do.
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Old 06-23-06 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtyphotons
is the chainring on the inside or outside of the crank spider? if it's on the outside, and you need to go farther out, these might help.
<shudder>, flip the cog, flip the cog, flip the cog. Or just deal with a shatty chainline the way the rest of us do.
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Old 06-23-06 | 09:35 AM
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Son of a *****, I wish I had known about the ****ing 44mm crap, I would have gone with the Phils. I just used google for "paul hub chainline" and the first thing that popped up was the old BF thread concerning the hubs. Sorry about that, I'm a non-searching ******.

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Old 06-23-06 | 09:47 AM
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haha, oops
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Old 06-23-06 | 01:04 PM
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-1 for companies that come up with some non-standard/propriatary junk. paul stuff is cool, but it doesn't make sense to buy it given that the majority of the ss/fix stuff out there is on a different standard.
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Old 06-23-06 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by padelsbach
-1 for companies that come up with some non-standard/propriatary junk. paul stuff is cool, but it doesn't make sense to buy it given that the majority of the ss/fix stuff out there is on a different standard.
It's not entirely non-standard. White Industries shares a similar setup as well as other single speed setups. With the Pauls you can easily use a road crank with the cog installed normally to give you the 46mm chainline for the chaingring on the outer position on a road crank. Or you can turn the cog around and use a track crank setup.
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Old 06-23-06 | 06:58 PM
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this why u should invest in a good ol set of DA hubs!
 
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Old 06-24-06 | 01:31 PM
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I tried flipping my EAI cog, and the chain hits the spokes. The Izumi V chain won't even come close to fitting, and the master link on the SRAM PC-1 chain hits, what chain are you guys using that allows you to flip the cog? Anyone use a spacer combined with the flipped cog to produce perfect chainline? I'm probably going to just machine 2 mm off my EAI cog to make it fit. That would be the correct amount to machine off correct?
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Old 06-24-06 | 01:55 PM
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oooh, hold a straight yardstick up there along your chainline and measure how far you're off before you start machining. or maybe flip the cog again and see if you can find some cog spacers to get the cog out there.

Gee, I cut it twice, and its still too short...
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Old 06-24-06 | 03:00 PM
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The reason I assumed 2 mm was because The cranks and cog I have work perfectly with a phil hub that has a chainline of 42mm, therefore producing the 2 mm diff. I used a similar method as the yard stick, and found that 2mm in the ball park, but I have never had much accuracy with that method.
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Old 06-25-06 | 03:19 AM
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A bottom bracket spacer worked for me. A fixed friendly lbs might carry some. You might get lucky and find a 2mm one. Otherwise they got them here:
https://www.rivendellbicycles.com/web...ngs/12209.html
The new bb with longer spindle argument is often questionable too because I've never gotten staight answers on if the difference in lengths is drive side or symmetrically divided.
good luck.
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Old 06-25-06 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by papalok
A bottom bracket spacer worked for me. A fixed friendly lbs might carry some. You might get lucky and find a 2mm one.
Good idea. I like this suggestion best. Cheap, and fairly fool-proof. The second best idea is not worrying about being off by 2 freaking millimeters. I've got a converstion that is off by a good 5 mm, with a ramped and pinned chainring, and I don't have a problem with it.
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Old 08-13-14 | 04:40 PM
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i ran into this issue after realizing it and noticed some extreme wearing on my new goldmedal cog. to me its worth it to straighten the chainline with about 2 mm of spacers than prematurely wear out a $100 cog.
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Old 08-14-14 | 04:23 AM
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why do people ask questions such as thins and never provide pictures?
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Old 08-14-14 | 11:13 AM
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to be fair this thread was started 8 years ago
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Old 08-14-14 | 11:45 AM
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I had a set of wheel built with paul hubs, and then came up on a legit deal for some sram s300s (road version) and it's solid for me. chainline is straight as an arrow
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Old 08-15-14 | 05:56 PM
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chainline

XTR M950 BB 112.5mm
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Old 08-15-14 | 06:26 PM
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Your cog is slipping.
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I would never be concerned with a chainline being off by 2mm.
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