TOO Tight?
#1
TOO Tight?
When I put the bike on a stand and crank the pedals and then stop cranking with my hand, I notice that the chain seems to pulsate and sometimes the cranks turn (catch a little) when the rear wheel spins. Mind you this is when it's on the FREE side of the flip hub. When riding the bike in FREE MODE an uneven clicking/ friction noise comes from the rear hub. Could this be because the chain is TOO tight?
*All the parts are brand new and lubed
*I checked w/ Sheldon Brown, and I've Searched*
*All the parts are brand new and lubed
*I checked w/ Sheldon Brown, and I've Searched*
#3
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Could also be that the chainring bolts aren't quite right. How much movement do you get if you move the chaing up and down about half way between the cog and chainring?
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#4
Originally Posted by sivat
Could also be that the chainring bolts aren't quite right. How much movement do you get if you move the chaing up and down about half way between the cog and chainring?
*with marginal pressure, i wasn't pushing it as hard as I could.
#6
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That sounds about right, a total of 1/2-1" of movement is normal. If it doesn't work, set the chain as tight as you want to run it, loosen the chainring bolts a bit, spin the cranks a few times, then tighten the chainring bolts back down.
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#7
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Originally Posted by Mehow
When I put the bike on a stand and crank the pedals and then stop cranking with my hand, I notice that the chain seems to pulsate and sometimes the cranks turn (catch a little) when the rear wheel spins. Mind you this is when it's on the FREE side of the flip hub. When riding the bike in FREE MODE an uneven clicking/ friction noise comes from the rear hub. Could this be because the chain is TOO tight?
*All the parts are brand new and lubed
*All the parts are brand new and lubed
#9
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Bikes: Bianchi Advantage Fixed Conversion; Specialized Stumpjumper FS Hardtail
Originally Posted by Mehow
could the pulse in the chain be caused by the fact that:
"chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric" -Sheldon Brown
"chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric" -Sheldon Brown
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I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track
#11
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Originally Posted by sivat
set the chain as tight as you want to run it, loosen the chainring bolts a bit, spin the cranks a few times, then tighten the chainring bolts back down.
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I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track
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Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track
#12
I tried it, but the chain still pulses. I'm convinced that my bike is trying to convey that it's alive, and therefore must be respected as such. [I'll take it to my LBS tomorrow, and i'll see what they think about it]
Thanks sivat
Thanks sivat
#16
coasterbrakelockup
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From: parts unknown
Bikes: surly steamroller w/coaster brake, electra single speed cruiser, specialized rockhopper commuter, no-name single speed folder, 700c ultimate wheel, 24" unicycle, specialized bmx lsd, single seat single speed huffy tandem, pink upsidedown parade bike
My bmx bike does the same thing because of a crappy freewheel.
#17
It's a conversion (Miyata "nine-twelve") . . .the chain ring is a brand new Salsa 42t . . . I think it's the fault of the freewheel. Since, it makes funny noises, and appears to be catching (which causes the chain pulse)
I'll visit the LBS tomorrow . . . they are bound to figure it out.
I'll visit the LBS tomorrow . . . they are bound to figure it out.
#18
is the freewheel an ACS? I have the same issue, took my bike to the LBS and the guy dumped a crap load of tri-flow in the cog. The noise went away, but there was still tighness in the chain at some points. I just turned the crank to where that spot was and loosened the chain to 1/4 inch up and down slack. Then tightened the wheel at that point. It works better in the stand. I haven't ridden it yet.





