Rear spacing question...
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
Rear spacing question...
So im looking into buying a frame for my first fixed gear, everything seems good on it, but the spacing on the dropouts is 128mm... is that alright for a fixed gear?
-Seth
-Seth
#2
faster and dangerer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Bikes: Benotto w/Chorus and stunty parts, Giant ranier w/XT, Rossin Fixie w/campy, stronglight, ambrosio
Well that depends on what rear hub you are wanting to use.
Standard track/pista hub spacing is 120mm or 110 for older stuff, so you will have to squeeze the dropouts
If you are thinking of running a flip flop hub like a surly they have a O. L. D. of 135mm, but actually come to think of it I believe that they do have a flip flop hub in 120mm now.
We are talking about mm here.
It's fine to spread or squish the dropouts by a few mm on either side.
What is the frame material?
If you do end up getting a hub with a smaller o. l. d. (over-lock-nut distance) than the frame dropout spacing you can always put a few spacers in between the lock-nut and cone (if this will still leave enough protruding axle to thread the wheel nuts onto) if not you could throw in a longer axle and do the same.
Standard track/pista hub spacing is 120mm or 110 for older stuff, so you will have to squeeze the dropouts
If you are thinking of running a flip flop hub like a surly they have a O. L. D. of 135mm, but actually come to think of it I believe that they do have a flip flop hub in 120mm now.
We are talking about mm here.
It's fine to spread or squish the dropouts by a few mm on either side.
What is the frame material?
If you do end up getting a hub with a smaller o. l. d. (over-lock-nut distance) than the frame dropout spacing you can always put a few spacers in between the lock-nut and cone (if this will still leave enough protruding axle to thread the wheel nuts onto) if not you could throw in a longer axle and do the same.
Last edited by Kaibot; 08-09-06 at 11:51 PM.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
so squeezing 10 or so mm is no big deal? Its a steel frame, so that shouldnt be to tough should it? I wanted to put track hubs on there, so you think that'll work?
Thanks a lot man, I appreciate it.
-Seth
ps...
If you can think of anything else I should know before starting to build this thing, or buying the frame, feel free to tell me man...
Thanks a lot man, I appreciate it.
-Seth
ps...
If you can think of anything else I should know before starting to build this thing, or buying the frame, feel free to tell me man...
#4
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 2
From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
Originally Posted by ElSetho
so squeezing 10 or so mm is no big deal? Its a steel frame, so that shouldnt be to tough should it? I wanted to put track hubs on there, so you think that'll work?
Thanks a lot man, I appreciate it.
-Seth
ps...
If you can think of anything else I should know before starting to build this thing, or buying the frame, feel free to tell me man...
Thanks a lot man, I appreciate it.
-Seth
ps...
If you can think of anything else I should know before starting to build this thing, or buying the frame, feel free to tell me man...
#5
faster and dangerer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Bikes: Benotto w/Chorus and stunty parts, Giant ranier w/XT, Rossin Fixie w/campy, stronglight, ambrosio
I would be more concerned about spreading the frame than pinching it.
Four mill on either side isn't that much
Four mill on either side isn't that much
#9
or tarckeemoon, depending
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 2
From: the pesto of cities
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
Originally Posted by Ziemas
How would putting a 120mm hub effect chainline on a frame with 126mm or 130mm spaced dropouts?
Chainline is mostly determined by your bottom bracket spindle width and what side you put the ring on if you're running road cranks.
#10
Banned
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 10,082
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by marqueemoon
All other things being equal the position of the cog won't change relative to the center of the axle if you respace a 120 hub to 130. I guess that's the point I was trying to make. Why tweak the frame more than you have to?
Chainline is mostly determined by your bottom bracket spindle width and what side you put the ring on if you're running road cranks.
Chainline is mostly determined by your bottom bracket spindle width and what side you put the ring on if you're running road cranks.
#11
Biggity-bam
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: West Lafayette IN, Ann Arbor MI
Bikes: Pista Concept, Fetish beater, Fuji road
Just by a hub that you can add spacers too. Best buy is an IRO. Then just at 4mm of spacers to either side. It won't affect your chainline at all.
#12
If your axle is not long enough to accomodate spacers then it is also possible to buy a longer axle for the rear hub instead of squeezing the frame. i did this and it worked out fine. Yes you get the great experience of removing your axle and trying to get it dialed in again but that bit of pain will be worth it becuase then you will always know how to service your own hubs.
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: New Mexico
gnarley guys, thanks.... so what it sounds like is 120mm hub with 4mm of spacers on each side, eh? Im not sure if anyone said what axle length I should go with though... it think yall said 130mm...
Again, thanks for all the help
-Seth
Again, thanks for all the help
-Seth




