It's even smarter to know the basics of chain installation before trying one's hand on a $50 chain. Failing that, one can still be part of the smart kids' crowd by buying a masterlink instead of Rube-Goldberging a pin back in.

All things seem fine until they don't; 'seems fine' isn't a great metric for what I'd put my safety on when there are cheap and easy alternative solutions. Also, a chain doesn't care whether you're commuting or racing. Even in the commuting case I'd just as soon not be late to work or stranded even if I didn't get hurt.

I pushed a pin out two nights ago, on my one and only half-link. It was the last half-link at the LBS.

After the requite foul-mouthing, I took "ye old skateboard tool".


Why? Because the screwdriver blade side had a nice taper and fit between the two sides of the outer chain link.
I pinched the skate tool in the vice laying flat, used needle-nosed pliers to hold the link, and tapped it in with a tiny hammer.

Something like this:


[not the actual link in question, this is just a hired stand-in link]

i've witnessed my brother do it without a chain tool. i recall it involved a hammer and nail-punch and shocking amounts of foul language.

WHACK &*^%@$# WHACK &**&@#&*^ WHACK *(!Q@#$&* (ad nauseum.)

Especially when the punch slips and slices open a finger. Mine is still sore from the adventure last Sunday.

And to the earlier poster who thinks chain tools prevent the pin from pushing all the way out -- not all of them (if any).

I found that it was a little less infuriating if I pushed the pin in from an old chain or from the extra piece of chain left over. The other method I found is to out the pin into the center section (where you should just be able to slide it through) then take the junction that has the two little dohickies that will go on the outside (try to stay with me and my technical language) and only worry about ONE of the little dohickies! Use the chain tool to push the pin from the inner section through one of the outer sections (like almost all the way through). Then move the inner section to its correct position, sandwiched between the two dohickies, and put the side of the chain up that has the peg sticking out. Now you should be able to use the chain tool to push the pin back through all sections of the connector as long as you go slowly and softly. If you try to angrily jam it through the other sections you will likely miss and have to start all over. Let me know if you want me to make a diagram.

Is it possible, someone has NOT heard :

" A chain, is only as strong as its weakest link. " ?

...or it somehow, does not apply to bike chains ???

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Are you talking about multi-speed shimano pins ... 8, 9, 10 ?

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Now, that IS the correct answer .
( nice to see, someone weigh all the factors, time, wear, etc ... even budget... to come up with the *easy* solution. )

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I *think* he wants to "cheat" the system ... he did something dumb, now he wants to fix it, quickly and cheaply. ( Can't blame him tooo much, we all been there... )

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Phew!!! I finally got the pin inside. The toughest part was to hold the pin in place! This is what I did. I dipped the tip of the pin in puncture glue and placed it on the hole, left it for few seconds. Then placed the chain in the chain tool, rotate and there it was
What a relief

Hey, guy, stop putting those dots at the end of your posts. It's really ****ing annoying.


Carry on y'all.

Use grease to hold the pin in line with the hole then carefully use the chain tool and make sure the pin stays in line.

Take superglue, put a little droplet on table or countertop or something that you don't mind they're being super glue on, and roll one edge of the PIN in the super glue droplet. Then, place with the super glue on it right on the Chain hole where it needs to be inserted and hold it there for 30 seconds or so to let it dry in place. Then, when dry, you want to place the chain with the PIN that's super glued back into the tool that you used to remove the PIN and tighten the tool to close the pin back in.

I hope rustang fixed his problem.....