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2 Simple Brooks Saddle Qs.

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2 Simple Brooks Saddle Qs.

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Old 10-03-06 | 12:49 PM
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2 Simple Brooks Saddle Qs.

1.) Do you need to break in the saddle at all before butchering? Is it chop worthy right out of the box?

2.) Is the B17N any taller than your average saddle? It looks like it in pictures, and I need to know because my seat post won't go down any further, so if the saddle ends up being taller than my current one I might me screwed...

Thanks!
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Old 10-03-06 | 12:57 PM
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Might as well butcher it right out of the box, that way while you are riding it you won't know how comfortable it was before you mutulated it.
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Old 10-03-06 | 12:59 PM
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Yes Brooks saddles are significantly taller than plastic saddles.

Why would you want to cut one up? Please tell me you don't want to make a taint cutout.
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Old 10-03-06 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidnssbm
1.) Do you need to break in the saddle at all before butchering? Is it chop worthy right out of the box?

2.) Is the B17N any taller than your average saddle? It looks like it in pictures, and I need to know because my seat post won't go down any further, so if the saddle ends up being taller than my current one I might me screwed...

Thanks!
if you mean the seatpost is so long that it hits something on the inside of the seat tube (for instance the water bottle braze on) then just hack a cm or so off the bottom of the post. if you mean it goes down to the point where the clamp hits the seatlug then spend the money towards a frame that fits! careful of your boys till then.

yer on your own for the butchering, but remember that you can always decide to try it later. you can't unbutcher it. why not see if you like it as is?
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Old 10-03-06 | 01:05 PM
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yes they tend to have a taler profile than your average saddle

as far as chopping them you may wont to factor in your weight because it can make the skirts bow outward causing some uncomfortable rubbing on your inner thighs ( see tying ) so when you chop it just tie the skirt as well to prevent this and mmake the saddle a little stiffer

on another note if ou seat post won't go down any further than your bike may be too big for you unless you are riding some crazy tt or pursuit bike
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Old 10-04-06 | 06:05 AM
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... or he has a funky aero seatpost or a Miche. Let's give the OP the benefit of doubt
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Old 10-04-06 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by LóFarkas
... or he has a funky aero seatpost or a Miche. Let's give the OP the benefit of doubt
or (to go the other way) he's one of those people who thinks the seat is positioned correctly when you can sit on it with both feet flat on the ground
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Old 10-04-06 | 07:53 AM
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yeah, okay. that was kinda cocky of me. didn't account for weird seatposts or the feet on the ground thing (not a rule i or anybody i know goes by, but to each his own). sorry op.

to re-answer your question yes, the b17 has a larger distance from rails-to-gooch than your average non-leather saddle.
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Old 10-04-06 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtyphotons
or the feet on the ground thing (not a rule i or anybody i know goes by, but to each his own). sorry op.
THat's probably not really the problem. I HOPE that's not the problem. But while it's true a Brooks is a little taller than most modern saddles, if you can't get a Brooks saddle low enough there is definitely a fit problem with your bike. Either the frame is too big, there is something strange about the seatpost such as a 450mm seatpost on a small frame, or the frame is simply too big. Anyway you look at it get the fit figured out before you worry about spending $100 on a saddle.
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Old 10-04-06 | 08:04 AM
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Old 10-04-06 | 08:08 AM
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looks like a good fit to me. provided the seat's at optimum height, seems like a brooks would require a new seatpost.
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Old 10-04-06 | 08:15 AM
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yup even if not for fit reasons a Brooks would require a different seatpost. Otherwise the fashion police would have to impound that thing for flagrantly clashing seatpost/saddle styles.

Neat looking bike though. what are those handle bars, and don't they get tangled in your knees?
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Old 10-04-06 | 10:40 AM
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they are just reversed bullhorns made to be promenade style. my knees dont hit at all.

thanks for people who answered the Qs!
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Old 10-04-06 | 10:46 AM
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you must have short shins or a weird riding style then.

Your brake could use a bit longer housing too.
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Old 10-04-06 | 10:48 AM
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my body is 100% physically normal and the caliper doesn't pull at all, do i really need longer housing?
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Old 10-04-06 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidnssbm
they are just reversed bullhorns made to be promenade style. my knees dont hit at all.
Interesting approach. I think the downturned bit wouldn't work for me, but it gives me a good idea for a new type of flop and chop. I think that bike would look real nice with a brooks and a more traditional style seatpost.
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Old 10-04-06 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidnssbm
my body is 100% physically normal and the caliper doesn't pull at all, do i really need longer housing?
Everybody's built different. my knees would be uncomfortably close to those bars, and I'm of relatively normal build as well.

If your brake is working fine, you don't "need" a longer housing, but it does look like there is a bit of a kink by the brake there, and the housing will probably wear out faster. when it starts to bind replace the cable and housing with slightly longer. It's not a problem until it becomes a problem, and then it's a cheap easy fix.
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Old 10-04-06 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidnssbm
my body is 100% physically normal and the caliper doesn't pull at all, do i really need longer housing?
need? No. Would it be better? Yes.

Most peoples knees would be bouncing off that when out of the saddle.
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Old 10-04-06 | 11:18 AM
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i use the brake for emergencies only. ive only used it maybe 3 times and thats when i first started riding fixie, so im not worried about it.

my knees dont hit no matter what, but i may chop them a bit after the bend anyway.

im a bit bummed i need a new seat post now... i liked that one. oh well. hey who knows, maybe it wont be too drastic of a difference.
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Old 10-04-06 | 11:25 AM
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just make sure you chop them in a way that allows for good end cap placement. Not using any would be very unadvisable.
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