Biopace on a FG?
#26
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Originally Posted by humble_biker
I would think that it would cause the chain to stretch faster because of the increase in load each revolution.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
#27
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Originally Posted by sloppy robot
in theory its not supposed to do this [change chain tension through the revolution].. but ive never seen one in action
BTW, this is why the "add 4 teeth to the chainring and you will be fine with one more link in the chain" axiom doesn't always work with vertical dropout frames.
Last edited by LóFarkas; 10-18-06 at 09:58 AM.
#28
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Originally Posted by ISDH
I had to set one of these up for a customer, with the chain tight enough to pop I could easily derail it in the stand.
Destination resort and all that.
I'll fix you lunch and you can show me how you easily derailed the chain in the stand, 'cause mine won't do it.
Maybe I don't try hard enough.
(Please read the above as written, in a friendly, respectful voice.)
#29
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ken--it could be that because you're running a comparatively large biopace chainring, it has less "differential" in the ovoid than the smaller rings. You might also have a stiffer frame than others (?).
As I posted, on my end, it really was night & day between the 42t biopace and the 43t round ring. My chain was constantly derailing with the biopace, even though I did really like the feel of it, maybe because my frame (185# on a '71 raleigh supercourse conversion) is noticeably flexy, maybe because of the ramped teeth.
As I posted, on my end, it really was night & day between the 42t biopace and the 43t round ring. My chain was constantly derailing with the biopace, even though I did really like the feel of it, maybe because my frame (185# on a '71 raleigh supercourse conversion) is noticeably flexy, maybe because of the ramped teeth.
#31
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Originally Posted by ISeeDeadHuffies
Biopace = worse than suicide hub in terms of safety, if you do it use a brake or two. It'll work but it will be VERY easy to throw the chain. And also loud, not smooth & generally a sh***y set up.
aeroplane - glad to have a fellow crusader .... where did the school system fail on that one?
#33
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Read the Sheldon article on chains, and then revise your theory.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
#34
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Originally Posted by humble_biker
ok, thanks. So what part of the chain stretch article deals with Bio Pace. I know how and why chains stretch. Live long and prosper Sheldon. Besides that it's just stupid.
https://sheldonbrown.com/biopace
https://sheldonbrown.com/chains
Sheldon "Non Sequitur" Brown
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#35
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Thanks for clarifying that.
It seems to me that you can through chain adjustment in the drop out get a good average of tight to slack ratio. But it if it isn't pretty close the high spot of the CR is going to cause undue fatigue and shorten the life of the chain. Is this accurate?
It seems to me that you can through chain adjustment in the drop out get a good average of tight to slack ratio. But it if it isn't pretty close the high spot of the CR is going to cause undue fatigue and shorten the life of the chain. Is this accurate?
#36
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Originally Posted by humble_biker
Thanks for clarifying that.
It seems to me that you can through chain adjustment in the drop out get a good average of tight to slack ratio. But it if it isn't pretty close the high spot of the CR is going to cause undue fatigue and shorten the life of the chain. Is this accurate?
It seems to me that you can through chain adjustment in the drop out get a good average of tight to slack ratio. But it if it isn't pretty close the high spot of the CR is going to cause undue fatigue and shorten the life of the chain. Is this accurate?
Chains don't fatigue, they wear.
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/chains
Sheldon "My Knees Like Biopace" Brown
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#38
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Originally Posted by sivat
Watching someone ride a fixed with a biopace ring is kinda weird since the chain goes slack, tight, slack, tight... every revolution. Otherwise, it seems to work ok.
except i dont have a biopace. My chainring is just outta wack. Just curious, I dont use clips or straps, is it possible that if i pedal with different strengths on my legs that it can bend the chainring out of round? I dont know how to fix my chainring high and low problem but it is getting worse AND it does correspond to a certain point in my chainring.
Any advice? I'm thinking of just buying a new 44t one because I want to up my gear inches now.
#39
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I recently switched my FG over to a biopace II setup (46:16) without any problems so far. I have heard a lot of rumors about them, so I picked one up off ebay for $10. So far its been a good experiment, I understand the problems associated with higher spin rates, but for a city bike its great!
#40
Have been running biopace for over a year. See link to FGG in my sig. Works great. OP: When you tighten the chain, get it very snug with the cranks vertical. They'll be just right when the cranks are horizontal.
I have NO problems with it. Ive run round and biopace (depending on what I have when I build the bike) and I can't tell the difference. I have 3 biopace cranksets (one in use) and my next bike will use them to. I just have no reason NOT to.
I have NO problems with it. Ive run round and biopace (depending on what I have when I build the bike) and I can't tell the difference. I have 3 biopace cranksets (one in use) and my next bike will use them to. I just have no reason NOT to.
#41
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In response to ISDH's comment "...with the chain tight enough to pop I could easily derail it in the stand," I went out into the garage and put my bike in the stand.
With the chain in its most slack position, with no tension on it, I could in fact derail it by pulling sideways and pushing the chain forward while turning the crank at the same time.
On the other hand, pressure on the crank kept the chain straight and secure.
In two years of riding with a biopace, I have had no trouble with the chain.
In order to derail the chain while riding, I would need to exactly match the speed of my rear wheel with my crank, so as to not put any tension on the chain, and then someone would need to pull sideways on it.
Or so it seems to me.
This biopace thing brings out as much controversy as daylight savings time.
With the chain in its most slack position, with no tension on it, I could in fact derail it by pulling sideways and pushing the chain forward while turning the crank at the same time.
On the other hand, pressure on the crank kept the chain straight and secure.
In two years of riding with a biopace, I have had no trouble with the chain.
In order to derail the chain while riding, I would need to exactly match the speed of my rear wheel with my crank, so as to not put any tension on the chain, and then someone would need to pull sideways on it.
Or so it seems to me.
This biopace thing brings out as much controversy as daylight savings time.
#42
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Originally Posted by humble_biker
ok, thanks. So what part of the chain stretch article deals with Bio Pace. I know how and why chains stretch. Live long and prosper Sheldon. Besides that it's just stupid.
#43
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
You missed the point. Your assertation was that the varying forces on the chain due to the eccentric ring would stretch the chain faster. The Sheldon article points out that chain wear occurrs because of running a dirty chain, not the amount of force on it.
#44
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Originally Posted by humble_biker
Sorry to disagree but it is a combination of both. The dirty and less cared for chain obviously will ruin faster, but to believe that the forces acting on a chain doesn't cause the pins pulling against the plates to actually "bite" into them resulting in the chain appearing stretched is silly.
If that's you main concern, go for big rings and sprockets. Better yet, make sure they are even numbered and keep the chain/sprocket phase relationship constant.
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html for details on this.
Sheldon "Live Long And Prosper" Brown
#45
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Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
The average tension on the chain is no different with a Biopace chainring than it is with a round or elliptical ring of the same size.
If that's you main concern, go for big rings and sprockets. Better yet, make sure they are even numbered and keep the chain/sprocket phase relationship constant.
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html for details on this.
Sheldon "Live Long And Prosper" Brown
If that's you main concern, go for big rings and sprockets. Better yet, make sure they are even numbered and keep the chain/sprocket phase relationship constant.
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html for details on this.
Sheldon "Live Long And Prosper" Brown
#46
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Originally Posted by humble_biker
Now we're getting closer to the OP. So you're saying that the force on the chain is equal regardless of when it is on the high or low point of the BP CR?
There will be slight variations due to the non-roundness, but the magnitude of these variations is much smaller than, the variations that normally occur duing the pedaling cycle.
The maximum tension will be slightly higher, probably about the equivalent of using a chainring 2 or 3 teeth smaller, but the average will be the same.
Bottom line, I do not believe that there is any difference in chain wear with Biopace chainrings compared with round or even traditional ellipticals.
Sheldon "It's An Imaginary Problem" Brown





