What did I just buy? It seems like a nice track wheel, but I could be wrong. I will let the pictures do all the explaning. One weird thing is, the side for a SS cog is spaced diffrently then the fixed side. Weird. BTW, I got this thing so cheap, you dont even want to know the price. Now I just need to find affordable tires for it. . .. .




Another BTW, that QR is one I just threw on.

Could this be because that side is not for a "SS cog" but a multi-speed freewheel? I had one of these once that took a 6sp freewheel on one side and a track cog on the other.

Is this for the track?
Or are you planning on riding this on the street?

if you have buyer's remorse, I'm here to take that thing off your hands (for more than you paid, even). I'll actually put it to use on the track.

P.S. The 1150 is fixed on one side, and takes a 6/7/8sp thread-on freewheel on the other. Those aren't SS threads (per-se, though you could thread on one in theory).

I was thinking that it used a multi speed freewheel. I had seen the bike this wheel was on, and it had a multi speed freewheel installed. I was eyeing this wheel for a while, then I saw it sitting in a corner today. I got it for about the same price of a meal at a fast food joint. His reason for selling, was it is too crazy.

When I get this wheel going, I can either save it for when I start track racing, or ride it VERY carefully on the street.

One more question. The bike that it was on had a rear brake. Can I use a brake on this wheel?

please dont ride it on the street. sell it to vomitron. he will race with it.

Two words: water damage.

Dont worry, it was not left in the rain. It was just wet when I took the pictures. Or you can tell it got too wet before or something?

Sorry people, I do not want to sell it right now. Next year, I want to go to the track. I have wanted to go for a while, but I cannot afford even a low end wheel. My suicide hub is good for around town, but I need a track hub for the track.

1) You can use it with a brake. It's designed to be a dual-purpose road/track wheel. It's heavy as sin (though not as heavy as those ******** aerospoke wheels), and often times the hubs/bearings/threads have problems, so ride with caution (that just means check the skin, and thread semi-regularly).

2) You would be perfectly fine using a suicide hub on the track (unless we're talking about match sprints). You basically never apply enough backpressure to unthread the cog. In fact, a lot of people take old 7sp freewheel discs, put on an adapter (that basically spaces the cog out farther) and ride those.

3) If I got that for under $10 and didn't really ride on the track, I would ride the sht out of it on the street. Don't let peoples' pansy fears keep you from riding that ***er like you stole it. Even in a crosswind, your rear isn't going to go sliding around that much anyway.

Congrats on the totally rad buy!

Thanks for the information vomitron! You said to check the skin, what exactly does that mean? The glue bead where the hub meets the wheel?

Since I got this wheel for only 10$, I am going to ride it on the street. It is going to be a "go fast" wheel. I can either use it on my fixie, or a LeTour I am working on. Using them on the fixie might not be too good, since you say the threads are fragile. First I have to figure out the whole tubular deal. They are expensive!

Vomitron has and will always remind me of .....



are my images working?

Umm..you're from N'awlins, mang; it was a tasteless joke.

https://www.thebikebiz.com/product_p/...btir-gan01.htm

Congrads,

I personally own a 900 for over five years now and use on track & street.
The only failing item are the bearings ( I ride the disk allot). which Zip will be most happy to sell
you.
This past season, I installed a road axle and a six speed freewheel for the Boonsboro Time Trial.
This design, not being lenticular ( curved ) makes the most awesome sound!!!! Great buy even if it does
weigh more than current units. As far as the cost of tubies well, once you ride them you will appreciate
them. They ( tubies) heat up quicker, which makes them very sticky on whatever surface you ride.
Also, the rubber compound is by far ( even the cheap ones ) better than any clincher.

i wanna say something here, but i cant figure out a way to put it without sounding like a jerk...

lol.

you should ride that **** in crosswinds. you'll "go fast."

Street racing Argggggg...

https://teamnosleep.photosite.com/Alb...ilysprint.html

i recommend tufo s22s or jet pros.

fairly cheap if you know where to look, soft/grippy compound on the jet pros, can use tufo's sealant, removable valve cores- which are important incase you break a presta head. you don't want to have to chuck away a whole tyre.

but yeah. nice purchase.

fsnl
sparky

Threw it on to check spacing and chainline. Everything lines up well. I threw a freewheel on for the pic. It looks weird but cool.

very cool. i have one just like it. one thing to watch out for, i needed a disc wheel pump adaptor thingy for mine. like this:



hey, you think you could take a picture of the side of the rim of your disc for me? like the disc/rim interface. I'm wondering if mine is delaminating, or if it was just a weird paint job (it used to be green, but the last owner painted it black).

You mean this? The black part is worn from either the rear brake, or excess tubular glue.

you're putting that disc on a conversion!!!?!?!?!?!?111 with a 27" wheel in front? why don't you sell that disc and buy some bar wrap and a wheelset for your bike, rather than embarassing yourself further.

I just threw up in my mouth a little.

Oh, most tracks won't allow conversions. You can usually rent for a small fee, though.

Dude, the disc is pretty much a piece of wood. Not like it is a CF disc or anything. . . . 27' is going to get swapped to 700. I just threw these bars on, and I did not get the time to do the wrap yet.

EDIT: Well, it does look like crap.