It looks like I'm going to have to modify my Panasonic to SS for now. This is mainly because I need a simple college commuter that I can ride, take on the train and lock up at school without having much to think about. I have a spare rear Sanshin wheel that I would like to remove the 6spd freewheel and put on a BMX freewheel or whatever fits. Can this be done? And if so, would someone enlighten me on the threading... is it "standard" or "metric"? TIA

yes very easily just remove old freewheel grease threads and mount bmx freewheel
you may ned to move the chainring aroun on the crank arm posts and redish/respace the rear wheel to acheive proper chainline

all are very easy to do and can be done within an hour with moderate mechanical knowledge

Retem, thanks, I thought that's what it was but just wanted to make sure.
HOw about the threading... the Sanshin hub is dated 1986, it's from an old Fuji... would it be standard threading or metric?

you will know when you pull the freewheel off if its metris they tend to be alot smaller

Thanks man.

something to think about when redishing...
Redish little by little. As you get closer to centering the rim, make sure that your spokes don't start poking out beneath the rim tape. I got my rim pretty close to center w/o the spokes protruding.

When you guys redish, do you adjust from the inside (screwdriver) or outside (wrench)? I always found it more precise from the inside but the weakness of the brass nipples strips the slot pretty easily... I lost my 4mm wrench so I might have to go buy another one. I really just wanted to go fixed... I used to ride fixed and I'm used to it, but the cheap solution now is making use of this wheel with a $7 freewheel. I figure it will hold me over for a while. Thanks again.

These are nifty too. Help with the chainline.

https://www.triathlete.com/store/product.php?id=38624

Get a spoke wrench. If you do the top thing with a screwdriver, you are gonna have to remove the tape.
If the wheel is old, drip some oil on the spokes so it gets to the threads.
Rotafix a fixed cog and you are good to go...as long as you keep one of yoru brakes.

I forgot you could use an olb bb lockring and some red locktight to space out the freewheel too

To redish, do you tighten one side and loosen the other, or do you just tighten one side and leave the other side alone?

I've personally never redished a wheel, but I've built wheels. I would tighten/loosen. I think that tightening one side would put too much tensional stress on the spokes, making for a very weak wheel.

yes it is a balance all wheels have some dish to them

bluenote157,
You mean that I can mount a fixed cog on that same wheel? What do you mean by "rotafix"?

yeah just keep brakes on the bike because it can come undon with some hard skidding

you could just use a fixed cog and a bb lockring as well with some hardcore metal to metal epoxy jb weld isn't as good as epoxy

Here is a write up from the FGG on how to redish a standard freewheel wheel and make it a fixed.
https://www.fixedgeargallery.com/wheels/

Id assume your panasonic is the same system as mine- all metric, 68mm BB, and 700 wheel size.

Why not just leave it geared if it all works? I asure you, nobody wants a derailleur from an old Panasonic. What is it, a shimano tourney? Suntour?

Hobarlemagne,
Our bikes are similar except mine is Tange 1 (I think your is Tange 2?) tubing with Campagnolo Veloce 10, Truvativ Elita compact cranks, Chris King headset, and other goodies. The wheel I'll be using is from a completely different bike, and I didn't pull the freewheel off yet so I wasn't sure if it was standard(english) or metric.

bluenote157, got your PM. Thanks man.