Originally Posted by Retem (Post 9345531)

this was a sticky at one point but fell out of favor I guess

Originally Posted by Lennysody (Post 9345442)

Hoping to bring this thread to life-Great thread- but I need some help/assistance here. I have an old Schwinn Varsity frame that I'm converting to a SS, but as of right now the bike weighs a metric ton. As you probably know most, if not all Varsity's had kickstands and I'm wondering if I could saw/torch that beast off(the kstand is welded on) without losing the integrity of the frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Originally Posted by chip thunder (Post 3702341)

Dish soap and sugar, when applied to a splinter that you can't get out and left to sit under a band aid for 8 hours or so will also help to draw the splinter out. No more digging like a madman.

Thanks mom!

Originally Posted by artimus (Post 9346393)

As a tool maker that works in a composite(carbon) facility, I get slivers all the time(metal and carbon). Iuse a disposable razor and shave them out. This is excellent for those nasty carbon slivers that you can NEVER grab with tweezers.

Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops (Post 10744089)

Fuuuuu*******kkk! I was never much into carbon fiber composites (impossible to inspect, sensitive to humidity) but this account definitely seals the deal for all eternity. Yea, yea, I know, you won't get those slivers if the part isn't broken or badly scratched. In an accident, though, I am happy if I "only" have to deal with the usual consequences - a nasty contamination with carbon slivers would be too much.

Originally Posted by carleton (Post 10743599)

Bump for the new guys.

Originally Posted by carleton (Post 10744123)

It's funny that you quoted artimus mentioning "metal", too. But, I'm sure that won't change your opinion on the matter.

Originally Posted by artimus (Post 9346393)

As a tool maker that works in a composite(carbon) facility, I get slivers all the time(metal and carbon). Iuse a disposable razor and shave them out. This is excellent for those nasty carbon slivers that you can NEVER grab with tweezers.

Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops (Post 10744245)

Well, let me help you with your reading:

I bolded and underlined the part that's worrisome. Got it?

Originally Posted by skadoosh (Post 10745852)

how come this isnt a sticky?

Originally Posted by jol (Post 3677840)

De-anodising (anodizing - for the stateside) and polishing a Cinelli quill stem
(or any other aluminium (aluminum - as before) part)
The [165] with-beer method.

Tools


Beer. (Weird one my girls dad had. MVP?)
Oven cleaner. (Sodium Hydroxide is the chemical you need I believe)
Fine grade wet'n'dry paper. (This was 1200 grit.)
Cup of water for the wet'n'dry.
Your aluminium part. (Disassembled as much as possible)
Metal polish cream. (Not pictured sorry. Mine was Autosol)
2 Cotton rags. (Old pyjamas pictured)
Old bucket or tray. (For the oven cleaner)

This stem was bought off Ebay and was a little shabby. Few knocks and scratches and
generally dull looking with it's factory anodise.

Step 1
Remove all parts/bolts and put part to be de-anodised in an old bucket/tray.
Spray on oven cleaner making sure not to get it on you or in your lungs.
A good coating helps. I don't think you can have too much. I had to turn
the stem with a stick to get at all the sides. Leave it for 10-15 minutes and have some ale.


Step 2
Rinse off all the cleaner a couple of times before you touch the part.

The part should be dull all over. If there are still spots of anodise, hit it again.

Step 3
Use the wet'n'dry to sand out any deep scratches, a general all-over rub works well at getting a
smooth surface. Avoid sanding any logos/pantographs if you care. The part should now look like this.


Step 4
Here is where the rubbing begins. You might need more beer. I did.
The method I find works best is to wrap an index finger in cotton cloth and apply a small blob of
metal polish cream to the fingertip. Rub the part like crazy all over for as long as you can bare.
Then get a clean rag (your 'dry' rag) and buff the polish off. The more times you repeat these
steps the more mirror-like the finish. I actually find it really satisfying but beer does help.

Bling
Your new shiny part.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/landres/6.jpg



Hope this helps. I tried using a dremel on a Campy Aero post a few weeks ago and find this method works better.
Now I just need the rest of the bike! Pics when finished.

Cheers.
JOL

Originally Posted by ssindosk8rss (Post 10886784)

I tried to do the DIY polishing thing but i saw that my seatpost had this weird black rigid crap on it. Anyone know how to get rid of it before I polish it?

Edit: I tried the EasyOff but it didnt take that off