Sugino RD vs. 75 for street riding
#126
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i think ill probably just go with some cheaper zen messengers unless i am feeling a little rich.
but dura ace, DANG.
280$ give or take for crank arms NO CHAINRING?
im just a around town street rider
but dura ace, DANG.
280$ give or take for crank arms NO CHAINRING?
im just a around town street rider
#129
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Bikes: Serotta Colorado III Track (Renyolds Ouzo Pro Aero Fork, Dura-Ace to Mavic CXP-14 wheels, Sugino crank, Thomson and 3T the rest), Steelman Cyclocross (Campy Record 10, Deda Newton & Thomson stuff)
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I run my Mighty Comps with a campy ISO BB. But, it's the really old 151bcd version.
They look great, and run the same as the cranks on my cross bike (FSA SL-K, to tie into the external bb issue).
They look great, and run the same as the cranks on my cross bike (FSA SL-K, to tie into the external bb issue).
#132
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I rode Sugino RD's for about a year and a half and they do the job...or good enough of a job.
Improving the quality of one's riding experience by improving the machine upon which one rides comes as the result of incremental improvements.
A little improvement here, a little improvement there, and after awhile the improvements start to add up to something meaningful.
However, if one keeps track of the money, one will find that these incremental improvements cost a lot of money.
I presently ride two fixed gear bikes: an "ice bike" with studded tires; and a fairly light-weight good-weather speedster.
I insure the light weight bike (the nicer of the two bikes) for $2400 so that I can replace it if and when it gets stolen.
$2400 sounds like a lot of money for a fixed gear bike, but I do not have especially high end components on this bike (the money adds up so quick).
In addition to a cheap frame set, I have a very cheap Stronglight crank on it.
The frame set aside, what would I gain by putting an expensive Sugino 75, Grand Mighty, Dura Ace or Campagnolo crank on this bike?
Well, first of all I'd get a stiffer crank.
However, I don't think of myself as a powerful rider, and my cheap frame flexes so much I don't know how much I'd gain from a stiff crank.
I wouldn't get a lighter crank because, as far as I can tell, I already have the lightest crank on the market.
The above said, by upgrading my crank, I would get a more circular and better centered crank, and, with a high end chain ring to match, I would have an all around truer circle that would allow me to run a tighter chain.
Right now, because of the tiny normal imperfections of my Stronglight crank (no better nor worse than any other comparably-priced crank) and the rings that will fit it (130mm BCD), I have to ride with what seems to me a very slack chain, which embarrasses me because of the way it looks, and which conceivably could come off more easily due to its slackness (hard to imagine but possible).
I think if someday I could afford a lighter, stiffer frame, then I could see some benefit from a stiffer crank, such as a Dura Ace, but only a tiny benefit that would cost me a lot of money.
So, instead of investing in an expensive crank, I put my money into wheels, tires, bearings, pedals, seat post, stem, saddle, and a brake.
A Sugino RD crank works great...or good enough.
If someone wants a nicer looking and lighter crank, but does not want to pay for a Sugino 75 crank, I recommend the Stronglight crank from Bussinesscycles.
Improving the quality of one's riding experience by improving the machine upon which one rides comes as the result of incremental improvements.
A little improvement here, a little improvement there, and after awhile the improvements start to add up to something meaningful.
However, if one keeps track of the money, one will find that these incremental improvements cost a lot of money.
I presently ride two fixed gear bikes: an "ice bike" with studded tires; and a fairly light-weight good-weather speedster.
I insure the light weight bike (the nicer of the two bikes) for $2400 so that I can replace it if and when it gets stolen.
$2400 sounds like a lot of money for a fixed gear bike, but I do not have especially high end components on this bike (the money adds up so quick).
In addition to a cheap frame set, I have a very cheap Stronglight crank on it.
The frame set aside, what would I gain by putting an expensive Sugino 75, Grand Mighty, Dura Ace or Campagnolo crank on this bike?
Well, first of all I'd get a stiffer crank.
However, I don't think of myself as a powerful rider, and my cheap frame flexes so much I don't know how much I'd gain from a stiff crank.
I wouldn't get a lighter crank because, as far as I can tell, I already have the lightest crank on the market.
The above said, by upgrading my crank, I would get a more circular and better centered crank, and, with a high end chain ring to match, I would have an all around truer circle that would allow me to run a tighter chain.
Right now, because of the tiny normal imperfections of my Stronglight crank (no better nor worse than any other comparably-priced crank) and the rings that will fit it (130mm BCD), I have to ride with what seems to me a very slack chain, which embarrasses me because of the way it looks, and which conceivably could come off more easily due to its slackness (hard to imagine but possible).
I think if someday I could afford a lighter, stiffer frame, then I could see some benefit from a stiffer crank, such as a Dura Ace, but only a tiny benefit that would cost me a lot of money.
So, instead of investing in an expensive crank, I put my money into wheels, tires, bearings, pedals, seat post, stem, saddle, and a brake.
A Sugino RD crank works great...or good enough.
If someone wants a nicer looking and lighter crank, but does not want to pay for a Sugino 75 crank, I recommend the Stronglight crank from Bussinesscycles.
#134
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I've got 75's.
If you want to see flex, watch a strong person riding on a roller, one where the fork is attached (not the 2 rollers where the bike is free). It's nuts to actually see the flex! Although I'm sure there's more since the fork is rigidly attached to the ground.
If you want to see flex, watch a strong person riding on a roller, one where the fork is attached (not the 2 rollers where the bike is free). It's nuts to actually see the flex! Although I'm sure there's more since the fork is rigidly attached to the ground.
#135
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I've often wondered how someone with soft-soled shoes could differentiate crankset flex from tire flex, wheel flex, frame flex and shoe flex.
And how much do you guys that keep breaking crankarms weigh?
#136
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I weigh about a buck ninety and I seem to have wrecked a set of tru-vativs. Of course, it's hard to know if my weight was the only factor in their eventual ruin. I didn't break an arm or anything; the splines just eventually got worn down, making the cranks loose on the bb no matter how much I tightened them down, and eventually the right arm just came off while I was crossing park avenue-- kind of scary.
Springing for 75s just seemed like a safe bet after that. I actually just got them delivered her about ten minutes ago-- bout to set them up and take a spin. I don't expect them to feel a whole lot different, but I do expect them to never let me down.
Springing for 75s just seemed like a safe bet after that. I actually just got them delivered her about ten minutes ago-- bout to set them up and take a spin. I don't expect them to feel a whole lot different, but I do expect them to never let me down.
#137
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220# here riding nothing but RDs and I'm the group ride camel meaning I carry a back pack full of emergency gear on every ride, never an Issue. This topic is meaningless without a test bike cause basing your choice of cranks on someone's opinion is no means to reach a factual conclusion.
#138
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Crank flex goes to a whole new level in the roadie forum where $500 on a crankset is peanuts and you ain't squat if you aren't riding a 900gram carbon frame stiff enough to support Sasquatch at a 50mph sprint.
#141
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