Chain lock length
04-02-07 | 02:45 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by nayr497
I have a kryptonite chain, but somewhere during one of my moves lost the lock. Does anyone have any idea if you can/where you can buy just the lock itself?
Most retailers sell the lock/chain as a pair.
Most retailers sell the lock/chain as a pair.
https://www.motorcycleonlinestore.com...nite_locks?b=1
04-02-07 | 03:16 PM
#28
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From: massachusetts
Originally Posted by nayr497
I have a kryptonite chain, but somewhere during one of my moves lost the lock. Does anyone have any idea if you can/where you can buy just the lock itself?
Most retailers sell the lock/chain as a pair.
Most retailers sell the lock/chain as a pair.
04-02-07 | 03:55 PM
#29
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From: Nausea, New Hamster
Bikes: (see https://wildavis.smugmug.com/Bikes) Bianchi Veloce (2005), Nishiki Cascade (1992), Schwinn Super Sport (1983)
Originally Posted by veggiemafia
…what length of chain do you guys use? Advantages of such and such length?
- Wil
04-02-07 | 04:14 PM
#30
Sheep Fondler
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From: Jersey
04-02-07 | 07:08 PM
#32
not actually Nickatina
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From: OR
I just don't see the need to have a chain lock unless you're a messenger. A mini-U lock locked up correctly with little to no room to slip tools inside is going to be nearly impossible to break in a timely manner with regular old tools. If anything a theif will go for an easier target, or try to break the thing you've locked your bike to (if you were stupid and locked it to say, a thin link on a fence, or a short sign post). But yeah, 2 mini-Evo's are going to be less weight than good chain and provide for a hell of a time for anyone that wants to get through them. Hell, 2 mini NYFU's would probably be lighter than a heavy chain too.
04-02-07 | 07:15 PM
#33
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eh? you don't live in a very high crime area do ya I got my chain on the cheaps and it works great.
04-02-07 | 07:15 PM
#34
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From: massachusetts
Originally Posted by andre nickatina
I just don't see the need to have a chain lock unless you're a messenger. A mini-U lock locked up correctly with little to no room to slip tools inside is going to be nearly impossible to break in a timely manner with regular old tools. If anything a theif will go for an easier target, or try to break the thing you've locked your bike to (if you were stupid and locked it to say, a thin link on a fence, or a short sign post). But yeah, 2 mini-Evo's are going to be less weight than good chain and provide for a hell of a time for anyone that wants to get through them. Hell, 2 mini NYFU's would probably be lighter than a heavy chain too.
04-02-07 | 07:29 PM
#35
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From: Pixxxburgh, PA
I think I'm going to go with either 2 mini evos or 2 onguard pitbull minis, after all. PGH is a pretty low-crime city (for the most part) and I'd say 9.7 out of 10 of the bikes that are stolen/****ed with are locked on college campuses for a week at a time with $10 cables.
04-02-07 | 09:38 PM
#36
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From: OR
Originally Posted by Retem
eh? you don't live in a very high crime area do ya I got my chain on the cheaps and it works great.
a mini u-lock with little to no room for tools is about as secure as it gets.
but you're right, portland isn't the worst place for bike theft. it's mostly bikes locked with cheap cables / really cheap U locks that end up getting stolen. you don't see bikes with a missing wheels very often...
04-03-07 | 01:46 AM
#39
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From: Austin
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Originally Posted by Landgolier
Yeah, the wheel in the shackle trick rules, I'm not the first to figure it out but I actually came up with it locking up two bikes, one through the back wheel and frame on a light pole, and then for the other I didn't have much chain, and while I was wrestling with it trying to get some slack and scratching both of our bikes I had a little light go on in my brain and just locked the other bike's wheel inside the shackle sheldon-style. With one bike it gives you enough for a bike rack or maybe a really skinny light pole, if all you have is a big light pole it's a no go but it will get you around anything a U-lock would have. YMMV based on wheelbase, obviously. An added advantage of this method is that it fills the shackle pretty completely, making prying harder and risking making the bike unrideable when breaking the lock, though if someone is jacking your colnago to throw it in a van this won't help.
For people who need chain sleeves, try going to REI, EMS, or anywhere else that sells climbing gear and getting 2" tubular webbing. I don't actually know if it will fit krypto chains, but it should fit most home depot chain. Should be like $2 for 3', explain to them what it's for so that when they cut it with the hot knife they will leave the ends open rather than smushing them together as they normally would. But be sure you get tubular webbing, they will probably try to sell you 2" seatbelt which is flat. 2" tube is kind of an old-school thing, not every place will have it. If you do this please buy 4' extra and send it to me, and I will be your friend forever and buy you beer when I'm in your town, and we will both bask in the eternal glory of knowing that we finally figured out if this is a good way of getting cheap replacement chainskins or if it's a little too small, and were able to share this knowledge with all mankind. I'm actually very serious, I have wanted to try this for like a year now but have not been near anywhere that stocks it and am too cheap to pay $6 shipping for $2 of webbing. The stock krypto webbing is like 2 1/4" or so, but seems to fit pretty loose, if this stuff works it would be the one ultrajam to rule them all as it is burly as hell and comes in a couple of colors.
Link to the stuff in question: https://www.rei.com/product/472049
For people who need chain sleeves, try going to REI, EMS, or anywhere else that sells climbing gear and getting 2" tubular webbing. I don't actually know if it will fit krypto chains, but it should fit most home depot chain. Should be like $2 for 3', explain to them what it's for so that when they cut it with the hot knife they will leave the ends open rather than smushing them together as they normally would. But be sure you get tubular webbing, they will probably try to sell you 2" seatbelt which is flat. 2" tube is kind of an old-school thing, not every place will have it. If you do this please buy 4' extra and send it to me, and I will be your friend forever and buy you beer when I'm in your town, and we will both bask in the eternal glory of knowing that we finally figured out if this is a good way of getting cheap replacement chainskins or if it's a little too small, and were able to share this knowledge with all mankind. I'm actually very serious, I have wanted to try this for like a year now but have not been near anywhere that stocks it and am too cheap to pay $6 shipping for $2 of webbing. The stock krypto webbing is like 2 1/4" or so, but seems to fit pretty loose, if this stuff works it would be the one ultrajam to rule them all as it is burly as hell and comes in a couple of colors.
Link to the stuff in question: https://www.rei.com/product/472049
I am having a hard time envisioning this trick to get a little more slack so that I can lock up the bike & both wheels without having to remove the front wheel. Is there a page on the internet with a picture of this? Thanks.
04-03-07 | 02:12 AM
#40
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I don't have a pic but I will try to describe it a little better. Hold your lock up by the crossbar (the part the key goes in. The chain links will shift down to the curve of the shackle. Stick a couple fingers inside the shackle; that's where your tire and rim will go. So to lock up, run the chain through the back wheel, and being the ends to the front. Insert the shackle through both chain ends, then put the shackle around the tire/rim and put the crossbar on between two spokes. Unless you have to turn it slightly sideways for a fender the crossbar will end up parallel to your axle.
04-03-07 | 08:31 AM
#41
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: 1985 Pinarello Catena Lusso / 1983 Pinarello Montello / Raleigh Marathon / Camel Cigarettes conversion / 1957 Worksman cruiser / Puch 140 / Raleigh Grand Prix
Originally Posted by andre nickatina
I just don't see the need to have a chain lock unless you're a messenger.
04-03-07 | 05:01 PM
#42
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From: OR
Originally Posted by I Like Peeing
Only thing is, someone riding all day doesn't want a heavy chain on their back...so that makes no sense. Then a few posts later, you mention how quickly a chain can be broken anyway... back to the mini.
04-03-07 | 06:14 PM
#43
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From: Austin
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Originally Posted by Landgolier
I don't have a pic but I will try to describe it a little better. Hold your lock up by the crossbar (the part the key goes in. The chain links will shift down to the curve of the shackle. Stick a couple fingers inside the shackle; that's where your tire and rim will go. So to lock up, run the chain through the back wheel, and being the ends to the front. Insert the shackle through both chain ends, then put the shackle around the tire/rim and put the crossbar on between two spokes. Unless you have to turn it slightly sideways for a fender the crossbar will end up parallel to your axle.
Hmmm. I sortof think I get the picture, but a real picture would be nice. The U-part of the U-lock is the shackle, right? So, are you saying that you use the U-part of the U-lock, as some sort of giant padlock to hook the ends of the chain? And then you use the crossbar part of the U-lock to secure one of the wheels? For example, and please correct me if I'm wrong on this...
Do you basically do your trick to increase the slack on your chain lock like this?
1) Wrap the chain around the rear rim
2) The ends of the chain will be hooked together with the shackle (U-part of the U-lock), near the downtube
3) The crossbar of the U-lock locks the front rim while the front wheel is still in the fork. And you do this since the chain lock is not long enough to thread through the front rim, correct?
Just wondering, but is my understanding of all that correct? Thanks very much. This thread is very helpful. Oh yeah, one last thing, how long is your chain lock? 3'3"? Longer or shorter?
04-03-07 | 07:34 PM
#44
Team Sohoku
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From: Not where I want to be.
Bikes: BMC, Cannondale, '87 Nishiki Modulus, 3Rensho Keirin
I use a 3ft + chain and I have a Masterlock with removable shackle (used to lock reefer trucks) that I slip over the forkblade, dropout and QR lever to keep the front wheel in place. So far, so good...but if someone really wants my bike, they'll find a way.
Veggie...sorry about your bike. I hope the guy that did it dies a violent, entertaining death.
Veggie...sorry about your bike. I hope the guy that did it dies a violent, entertaining death.
04-04-07 | 11:50 AM
#46
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From: Philadelphia
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Originally Posted by andre nickatina
the thing is, if you're a messenger and you're being paid for speed/fast time, you need to be able to lock your bike to whatever is in sight. also, you're probably not going to have the bike locked for more than a few minutes so the chance of getting it broken isn't that high, unless you live in NY or something. so it does make practical sense. but if you're not a messenger, the only reason i can really see for a chain lock over a good U-lock is if you're using it with another lock for overnight locking to secure the wheels.
04-12-07 | 08:27 AM
#47
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From: Austin
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If you have to leave a bike locked up for all or most of the day, do you think a nini u-lock + chain would be a good idea? Just wondering what the most reasonable method(s) of locking would work in this instance, short of the Pee-Wee Herman 200 foot chain lock method.
04-12-07 | 08:38 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by bellweatherman
If you have to leave a bike locked up for all or most of the day, do you think a nini u-lock + chain would be a good idea? Just wondering what the most reasonable method(s) of locking would work in this instance, short of the Pee-Wee Herman 200 foot chain lock method.
I leave a good ($1000ish) bike locked up all day with a krypto chain, no worries. I leave a $300 decent beater with a gray krypto and a cable all day, also no worries. This is pretty much anywhere in chicago.
04-12-07 | 08:39 AM
#49
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From: DFW
I recommend going with the Home Depot chain option. You don't need the heaviest gauge, just something that will scare people off. As far as keeping it from ruining shirts, go to REI or any other outdoors store that carries rock climbing equipement, and pay about $1.50 for a few feet of climbing rope webbing. Total price of my chain lock setup was $14. The webbing also keeps the chain from marring the paint on your bike. Also, having a ****ty looking bike helps, at least for me.
04-12-07 | 09:05 AM
#50
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Originally Posted by bellweatherman
Hmmm. I sortof think I get the picture, but a real picture would be nice. The U-part of the U-lock is the shackle, right? So, are you saying that you use the U-part of the U-lock, as some sort of giant padlock to hook the ends of the chain? And then you use the crossbar part of the U-lock to secure one of the wheels? For example, and please correct me if I'm wrong on this...