standover clearance?
 

I think I've just about nailed down my new bike, but I have one lingering concern about geometry: standover clearance.

First, is standover height more typically measured from ground to top, or ground to center?

I'm specifically looking at the Jamis Sputnik 62cm. I'm 6'3.5", but only have a 32" pants inseam (really short legs, tall torso), so maximizing top-tube length is critical to me.

The 62cm Sputnik has a 34" standover height. I was experimenting with a measuring tape and a dowel, and found that 34" is just brushing the bottom of my nuts, but leaves a good 1/2-3/4" clearance from my pelvis. I can straddle this height comfortably flat-footed. Is this adequate? What's the risk of seriously hurting myself in an accident? Anyone have first-hand experiences to scare me away?

It doesn't seem like I'm going to find a bike that has the top tube length I need, and provides more clearance than that. (One day maybe I can afford a custom frame...)

Anyone know how Jamis measures? Is 34" standover to the top or center of the top tube?

What do people think?

I think you'll be fine. You'll just need to tilt the bike to the side a bit if you are really bailing hard.

when do you stand flat footed over your bike?

i think that most people who are comfortable handling a bike will not need any more standover clearance than that.

for technical offroad stuff it's advisable to have more, and some people want their polo bikes to have more, depends how you play. i also suppose cyclocross style hop-on mounts could be slightly more risky, but those are risky enough if you're not comfortable with them. best to practice at slow speeds at first.

i have a bike that basically is about 5mm from my taint when i'm standing straight over it.

you do not want it to be too tall. it's a pain to get on and off and i'm seriously worried if i ever have to bail and can't get to the side enough.

make sure you have an inch or an inch and a half. you don't want it to be too tall.

I don't see how the leg comes over the back and if you miss the saddle your going to bash something(hopefully your thigh) on the tt no matter how low it is.

I don't understand how it's hard to get on and off a bike with insuficient standover. Are you "stepping though" or something?
I've ridden bike that were too big for me and never had a problem. The leg goes over the bars or over the saddle.

hi,
standover is measured to the top of the tt as that's what you must stand over.
inseam measurement is not equal to pants inseam
it sounds like the 62cm is an ok size for you..
your standover clearance is small but adequate
also keep in mind you can affect dimensions a tiny bit with stem length and even tire size

That's what I thought too, but Surly for one seems to think differently, which is why I asked which measurement is more "typical." See here: http://www.surlybikes.com/steamroller.html (notice the asterisk next to s/o height and the corresponding note below the chart).

Sounds like I shouldn't be too worried. Can't wait to get my sputnik!!!

Will probably need shorter cranks (165 or 170, instead of the stock 175) and a front brake. Any suggestions (small budget)?

The only reason i clicked on this thread was because i thought it was about getting permission to go out and take peoples lunch money and sh,it.

who bails off a road bike by trying to straddle the top tube and land flat footed??


while this is good advice for a mtb, i don't think it is good advice for a road bike with classic geometry. this bad rule of thumb leads many to buy bikes that are waaay too small for them.

depending on the temperature my balls are either resting for 5 mm off the top tube. It doesn't matter. And if you bail like that your more than likely going to get hurt either way.

http://sheldonbrown.com/starting.html


Some Wrong Ways:

The Cowboy Mount is popular among cyclists who learned to ride on a bicycle that was too large for them. Indeed, this is the only way to get started on a bike that is seriously too tall for the rider. This dubious technique involves standing next to the bike, putting one foot on a pedal, then swinging the other leg over the saddle while the bicycle is in motion.

The cowboy mount places the rider's weight on the bicycle while it is leaning over at a sharp angle. This puts considerable lateral stress on the frame and the wheels. Bicycle wheels, in particular, are not designed to withstand serious sideways stresses, and this poor mounting technique is very hard on your wheels.


Correct Basic Starting Technique

Stand astride the frame, both feet on the ground. Most people get to this position by swinging a leg over the saddle, but if you have low handlebars, you can do it over the bars as well. If you have a "lady's" bike or other bike with a low frame, you may be able to lift your foot over the frame. It sometimes helps to lean the bike to the side before straddling it.

Do not try to sit on the saddle while the bike is stopped, this is not usually possible if your saddle is properly adjusted.

Rotate the pedals so that the pedal for your less skillful foot is 45 degrees forward of straight up.

Put your foot on the high pedal, then press down hard. This will simultaneously:

Let you use the pedal as a step to lift yourself high enough to get onto the saddle...and:

Apply driving force to the chain, causing the bike to pick up speed.
If you have not learned to do this, take the time to practice. It may sound difficult, but it isn't as hard as it sounds. Once you get used to it, it will become second nature. You will become a better, safer cyclist, because you will be able to bring your bicycle quickly up to a speed that allow you to ride without wobbling.

And I repeat:
The only time you should ever be standing flat footed over the bike is when you are at the level of experience where you need someone(like sheldon) to tell you how to mount a bike.

oh ****, thats totally how i start... and stop =/

Don't worry unless you are swinging way to the side it's not putting much(if any) more stress on the wheels then mashing and swinging the bike around beneath you.

with a 32" inseam you should ride a 54cm with either a 57cm tt or a long stem to compensate

He could get away with a 55. I have just under a 31 inch inseam and have a 54. [technically its a 55 center to top of seat collar]
Given you odd measurements, check out some longer stems.

this is actual measured inseam [book in crotch to floor method], not pants size inseam, correct?

yes it should be I have a 34" inseam and ride a 57 and am 6'4" I am another fud I run a 100mm stem with long reach deep bars and it fits perfect

Sorry, I meant 57 instead of 55 although you would be able to ride a 57, you won't have much seat post height.

I have a 32" inseam and ride a 57.

It's tough being a monkey. My girlfriend is 6" shorter than me and we can wear the same pants (if I suck in :p)

No:

my girl is a foot shorter than me I liek the title sasquatch I am a very hairy man too
dude use the competitive cyclist fit calculator and measure twice

seriously, everyone's legs are different lengths than others of the same height. you can't give top tube lengths without knowing someone's torso length and bar position.

and mountain bikes should have way more than 1.5" over the top tube