rust-proofing / to paint or not to paint
#1
Thread Starter
Cannondale Shill
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,695
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From: Kingston, ON, CAN.
Bikes: '06 CAAD8, SRAM Rival/Force and fixie of unknown origin
rust-proofing / to paint or not to paint

Alright, I've had this thing for about a year now and use it as my commuter/around-town bike when I want to get somewhere when I don't want to use transit or ride my Cannondale. The guy who owned it before me stripped the paint down to the raw steel and I don't think he bothered clearcoating it or anything afterward. I've been using this thing in the rain occasionally and have started seeing signs of surface rust at the BB cluster:

It's a great bike and I got it for a steal, so I don't want it rusting out on me. I'm probably going to tear it down and linseed oil the inside of the tubes in the next week or so, but have a question: when people say "boiled linseed oil," do they mean purchasing linseed oil and then boiling it at home, or can the boiled stuff be bought at Canadian Tire or Home Depot? I assume you just drop some into the tubes and swirl it around so that everything inside gets coated.
I've also been debating whether or not to give the bike a rattle can job as well. I love the chrome look, but I don't want to deal with surface rust. I suppose I could just go over it with several layers of clear coat, but I feel that a bright chrome bike is going to attract unwanted attention from thieves. I use a Krypto Evolution U-lock whenever I have to lock it up, but I'm thinking that people are going to be less likely to notice a flat black bike than a bright and shiny silver one.
If I was going to paint the thing, what kind of paint should I pick up from the hardware store? Getting it done at an automotiv painter or having it powder coated is not an option for me right now due to cost.
#2
baby eater!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 408
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From: bushwick, brooklyn
Bikes: fuji track '06, fixed lowrider, fixed folding bike
Rustoleum always works well...if you want it to look good just be sure to primer it first and do a bunch of really thin layers..and let it dry really well in between each layer, and lightly sand in between each layer too..it just makes the paint alot more durable and even looking...
#3
I was just looking to do the exact same thing... there's some good looking stuff on the krylon website... probably very similar to rustoleum.
I was thinking of getting the krylon rusttough primer and then a rusttough enamel over... maybe then with a clear coat.
Here's the site...
I was thinking of getting the krylon rusttough primer and then a rusttough enamel over... maybe then with a clear coat.
Here's the site...
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,603
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From: northern California
Bikes: Bruce Gordon BLT, Cannondale parts bike, Ecodyne recumbent trike, Counterpoint Opus 2, miyata 1000
There is a paint expert on BF known as Dr. Deltron. Try for a response from him. Any lugged frame that is rideable is too nice to give to the rust demons. If nothing else clear-coat the rust to slow further damage.
#5
Fred
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 277
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From: Boston, PRM
Bikes: 1983 Schwinn Super Sp0rt, Trek hybrid, eBike, Xootr
Boiled Linseed oil can be processed linseed oil. But a commercial BLO finish usually contains solvents and other agents to promote better penetration and faster curing. It was used a lot on furniture and rifle stocks and is still used quite a bit today, although better finishes have been introduced. Starting as early as WWII, BLO was replaced with a Tung Oil formulation. I've never heard of it being used on metal.
Spraying the rusty areas with Duro Extend, a rust neutralizer works well. If you are really cheap, use Coke or other mild acid.
Rustoleum makes a heavy rust primer formula that goes on over surface rust pretty well. Their spray enamal finishes are quite durable and available almost everywhere. Alternatively, auto parts stores and WalMart carry Duplicolor, available in the full range of automoticve colors.
It's all about surface prep. Neutralizing the rust, degreasing before applying primer, a light sanding and another wipedown, and spraying many thin coats outdoors on a warm, still day with low humidity all help.
Rustoleum has some FAQ's on their website, ot to mention Dr. D's Dissertations here.
Spraying the rusty areas with Duro Extend, a rust neutralizer works well. If you are really cheap, use Coke or other mild acid.
Rustoleum makes a heavy rust primer formula that goes on over surface rust pretty well. Their spray enamal finishes are quite durable and available almost everywhere. Alternatively, auto parts stores and WalMart carry Duplicolor, available in the full range of automoticve colors.
It's all about surface prep. Neutralizing the rust, degreasing before applying primer, a light sanding and another wipedown, and spraying many thin coats outdoors on a warm, still day with low humidity all help.
Rustoleum has some FAQ's on their website, ot to mention Dr. D's Dissertations here.
#8
Originally Posted by thatcher
im really suprised the frame isnt more corroded.
#9
out of shape
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,456
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From: va
There's a product called Frame Saver that is made specifically for coating/rustproofing the inside of steel frames. If you have any doubts about the linseed oil, you can get Frame Saver at your LBS or online.
Make sure you mitigate the rust areas (mechanically) before you apply any sort of finish: it'll ensure an even coat that won't chip off later.
Make sure you mitigate the rust areas (mechanically) before you apply any sort of finish: it'll ensure an even coat that won't chip off later.
#11
Thats chrome plated
Typical thin chrome they did so the lugs and highlight areas will be chrome
I would just keep at it with steel wool to keep the rust at bay since it doesn't look like the tubes (thinnest and most sensitive part) are rusting. A bit of surface rust kept in check on the thick lugs probably wont jurt it and it looks cool all chrome like that.
Typical thin chrome they did so the lugs and highlight areas will be chrome
I would just keep at it with steel wool to keep the rust at bay since it doesn't look like the tubes (thinnest and most sensitive part) are rusting. A bit of surface rust kept in check on the thick lugs probably wont jurt it and it looks cool all chrome like that.
#13
The cost of 2-3 cans of primer, 2-3 cans of paint, 1-2 cans of clearcoat, is well over half the cost of a professional paint or powdercoat job, plus it chips and scratches really really easily.
I spent a week stripping priming and spraypainting my frame, it took about that long for it look like ass. The powdercoat is amazing when it comes to durability.
Boiled linseed oil is the same stuff you buy in a can at the hardware store, no need to heat it up. Plus, it's very flammable. I used JP weigels framesaver made for the purpose, ride all winter, and the frame is fine on the inside.
I spent a week stripping priming and spraypainting my frame, it took about that long for it look like ass. The powdercoat is amazing when it comes to durability.
Boiled linseed oil is the same stuff you buy in a can at the hardware store, no need to heat it up. Plus, it's very flammable. I used JP weigels framesaver made for the purpose, ride all winter, and the frame is fine on the inside.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 1
From: Philadelphia
Bikes: 1985 Pinarello Catena Lusso / 1983 Pinarello Montello / Raleigh Marathon / Camel Cigarettes conversion / 1957 Worksman cruiser / Puch 140 / Raleigh Grand Prix
Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
The cost of 2-3 cans of primer, 2-3 cans of paint, 1-2 cans of clearcoat, is well over half the cost of a professional paint or powdercoat job, plus it chips and scratches really really easily.
I spent a week stripping priming and spraypainting my frame, it took about that long for it look like ass. The powdercoat is amazing when it comes to durability.
Boiled linseed oil is the same stuff you buy in a can at the hardware store, no need to heat it up. Plus, it's very flammable. I used JP weigels framesaver made for the purpose, ride all winter, and the frame is fine on the inside.
I spent a week stripping priming and spraypainting my frame, it took about that long for it look like ass. The powdercoat is amazing when it comes to durability.
Boiled linseed oil is the same stuff you buy in a can at the hardware store, no need to heat it up. Plus, it's very flammable. I used JP weigels framesaver made for the purpose, ride all winter, and the frame is fine on the inside.
...and Framesaver is excellent.
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 53
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From: mostly flat florida though I do live near the ridge I have 200' foot elevation ride wich is rare!!
Bikes: El cheapo specials for road and Mtb and a GT bmx
Get a gun bluing kit and see how that looks it will definately be unique!!
#18
All-round nice guy.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 448
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From: Ontario Canada
Bikes: Kish road bike, Seven mtb, Marinoni road and track bikes.
That frame is chrome plated.
Don't bother about any expensive commercial "frame saver" product. Just use a litre of engine oil inside the tubes, (pump it in with a dollar store turkey baster) swish around and let drain. Remove the seatpost and BB unit to get to the main tubes. There will be small holes in the ends of the stays and fork. What I use is auto rustproofing stuff that one of the rustproofing shops will sell you. If it's good enough for a 150k Porsche...................
Don't bother about any expensive commercial "frame saver" product. Just use a litre of engine oil inside the tubes, (pump it in with a dollar store turkey baster) swish around and let drain. Remove the seatpost and BB unit to get to the main tubes. There will be small holes in the ends of the stays and fork. What I use is auto rustproofing stuff that one of the rustproofing shops will sell you. If it's good enough for a 150k Porsche...................





