I can't get it fixed!!!!!!!
 

I got a fixed hub, but as i pedal back wards, to skid/slow down, the cog disengages! It spins off!!!!!!

Im thinking its because i greased the threads, but i dont think that should effect it... i have a spacer there just to make sure the lock ring is making contact... did i go seriosly wrong?!

I have taken the wheel of the bike like 15 times adjusting everything... and it wont work.

I tried tightening the cog using my own pedaling powah and the rotafix method. both have failed.

I hope the hub isn't stripped!

Of course, pics.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...t/IMGP5677.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...t/IMGP5678.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...t/IMGP5697.jpg

Its hard to tell from the pics, is that the grease on your threads?

also, that **** needs to be cranked down really tight, cog and lock ring. If all else fails you can try red locktite

edit: -1 for my reading comprehension

Do U Has A Lockring?

that was my first thought also, -1 for your reading comprehension also.

Had a sorta similar problem. Used rotofix method and then blue loctite'd my lockring on after it was really tightened down. Let it sit for a day or so to dry. Haven't had an issue since.

Whats with this reading comprehension thing, i don't write THAT bad.

Yes i have a lock ring.

I don't think locktite is the way for me... i don't want to risk everything on a little bit' o glue.

EDIT: You can see there was a little locktite there but i just riped it off.

both of our first thoughts were a lockring. in your post you said that you tightened the cog and the lockring, thus eliminating the possibility of you not having a lockring to begin with. it isn't you, it's me...

ok, it doesn't really matter. What matters is I WANT TO RIDE!

What wheelset are you using? They look like the same Vueltas that I have. If they are, I had the same problem and figured out what was wrong with the cog loosening.

They are from a fuji track, thats what the seller told me.

Tell me how you fixed it, please!

The lock ring spins on in the opposite direction. It's unclear to me how the cog can possibly spin off if the lock ring is there -- threads running in the opposite orientation are designed to prevent this. How is it that the lock ring threads on your hub look perfectly clean and not stripped? Grease isn't the problem ... I've built up a dozen fixed gear rear wheels and have greased every one of them and never had this problem.

The lock ring stops it after a few revolutions... but its still slipping.

I think i will just go back to the seller, he should check it out again. I went back and he put a spacer, it didn't help. I went to a lbs and got a surly cog cause they look beefy, and some spacers (free). I am using only ONE spacer, if i use 2 i feel like the lock ring doesn't fully screw on. I am PARANOID about striping. I can always use the SS side for a suicide fixie... but thats less than ideal!

Does the lock ring fit all the way in against the cog's set of threads? And where are your spacers ... between the hub shell and the cog, or between the cog and the lock ring? I have never needed spacers ... I have always been able to get the cog snug up against the hub shell (have never used a Surly cog, though), and I've always been able to get the lock ring snug up against the cog. That way, if the cog wants to try to spin off, it inevitably tightens the lock ring. It seems impossible that the lock ring could spin off against the threads without stripping them.

ride up a steep hill and don;t use any back pressure, get off your bike, tighten your lockring....that might fix the issue

I did that... and with the front break, and pushing and pulling at the same time...

i think i need to tighten the lock ring a LOT more???? Im just using yey old hammer and screwdriver to tighten it... but i don't see how the cog spins off since the lock ring is touching...

Spacers are on first, then the cog, then the lock ring.

Can some one link me to an installation guide. Thanks.

there's your problem. get a proper lockring spanner.

try a thicker lockring, I have a surley (I think) on one side of my hub, it's a lot thicker than the stock one on the other side (it has a washer to make up the difference).

Are you sure? Cause none of the lbs's here have lock ring tools!

And the surly lock ring COSTS! its like 20eu!

My SS project wasn't cheap, and this Fixie is NOT cheap at all. Go_dam_

http://www.nashbar.com/nashbar_photo...um/PT-HCW5.gif

your lbs doesnt even have a bb tool? this is what i used for a while

get the lockring spanner. I had the same problem kinda. Has soon as I got the spanner i was suprised how much that lockring turned to be fully tight. NOW....no problem.

Are you in Helsinki? If so stop by the national team's workshop, they should have a lock ring tool.

Turku... i think im going to get some auto tool, or some generic lock ring tool...

if you have access to a bench grinder you make one out of a vise grip. just grind all but the very end of the tool down so it has two teeth instead of flats for grabbing things.

Can some on assure me that the surly cog is good, Sheldon's site says dura ace is better...

You could also just order the proper tool and have it in your tool box for the rest of your life.

http://www.hubjub.co.uk/etc/etc.htm

I see a generic lock ring tool for 4$, im going to give that a try.

no grinding for me.

I wonder how all the other Finnish fixed riders ride?! gotta post this topic on their forum.

Surlys are good to go, I've run one for over a year with not one problem.

KEY WORD: order... i really can't do that, maybe a friend can, and ill pay them cash... in that case a real possibility.