Chains
05-10-07 | 08:40 AM
#51
mofo
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 152
Likes: 1
Andre,
I think my 1/8" Phil was 7.4mm wide overall, the tooth is 3mm (going from memory). That puts the chainline from shoulder at 5.9. 1/8" EAI is 6.73 according to Mr. "Interchangeabilitude" Sheldon.
I could be a little off, I have a crappy caliper.
Anyway, I think you could easily get a spacer in there and still have enough thread for a lockring; though that may not be ideal for you.
With me, my goal is to have 14 thru 17 tooth Phil cogs so I can get a full range of geraring (91 - 75 G.I.). I may even get a 13t...
I think my 1/8" Phil was 7.4mm wide overall, the tooth is 3mm (going from memory). That puts the chainline from shoulder at 5.9. 1/8" EAI is 6.73 according to Mr. "Interchangeabilitude" Sheldon.
I could be a little off, I have a crappy caliper.
Anyway, I think you could easily get a spacer in there and still have enough thread for a lockring; though that may not be ideal for you.
With me, my goal is to have 14 thru 17 tooth Phil cogs so I can get a full range of geraring (91 - 75 G.I.). I may even get a 13t...
Last edited by me thinkst; 05-10-07 at 09:03 AM.
05-10-07 | 09:28 AM
#52
Senior_Member2
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,694
Likes: 0
From: Finlando NOT: Orlando, Fl
Bikes: Beater + Nishiki Bigfoot X-29
I use a KMC chain, all you guys talking about it being 7$... im paying 8eu!
I keep it clean and lubed (as i do with all my chains). Its silent. And lube it with REAL lube, and let it set for a while (10min), then wipe all the excess lube with a puffy towel. After a few rides i some times have to re wipe.
I keep it clean and lubed (as i do with all my chains). Its silent. And lube it with REAL lube, and let it set for a while (10min), then wipe all the excess lube with a puffy towel. After a few rides i some times have to re wipe.
05-10-07 | 11:06 AM
#53
my girlfriend skids
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Rain City
Bikes: Steamroller, Davidson
I use a super gnarly Wipperman BMX chain. Had it for years and have never had an issue with it. The thing weighs like three pounds, is noisy as hell, and kinda tears up cogs/chainrings, but I love it.
05-10-07 | 12:37 PM
#54
mofo
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 152
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by reinventingevan
I use a super gnarly Wipperman BMX chain. Had it for years and have never had an issue with it. The thing weighs like three pounds, is noisy as hell, and kinda tears up cogs/chainrings, but I love it.
Get a ruler and measure it. Over 12 1/16", toss it.
Sheldon:
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:
● If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
● If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
● If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
● If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:
● If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
● If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
● If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
● If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
