how quiet are your fixies?
#52
My guess is that the OP's setup is fine, but like someone else said....
Chain tension. Having too tight a chain my experience makes for a loud ride.
Also "new new" parts tend to be much louder.
Wait till the parts find their groove.
If you're really worried about noise;
Take a spin out in the rain.
The drive train just meshes so much nicer when it's wet... like sex.
</3 cents>
Chain tension. Having too tight a chain my experience makes for a loud ride.
Also "new new" parts tend to be much louder.
Wait till the parts find their groove.
If you're really worried about noise;
Take a spin out in the rain.
The drive train just meshes so much nicer when it's wet... like sex.
</3 cents>
#53
Originally Posted by slvoid
Izumi V chain, sugino 75 bb, crank, chainring, phil wood cog, noisy as all hell and when I pick up the bike and spin, I can definitely feel a vibration in the frame. When I take the chain off and spin the cranks, it spins in steps, looks like the bb's shot after 900 someodd miles.
#54
My drive train is whisper quiet even though I use a weird mic of a miche sprocket mutiny BMX chainring and Whipperan track chain. I did however spen several weeks wondering what the strange clicking noise was whenever I pedalled hard. Turns out it was a loose bolt in my seatpost DOH!!! No wonder the bike shop I used to own closed down LOL
#57
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by lymbzero
Also "new new" parts tend to be much louder.
Wait till the parts find their groove.
Wait till the parts find their groove.
#58
It's an old photo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
From: Entropia
Bikes: Cannondale R500, Specialized Hardrock
Re: the factory lube (cosmoline)
In my experience I've found that it's great for about 50 miles in most conditions, then there's enough dirt on it to feed an army. The cosmoline penetrates really deeply, and it does lubricate well, but because it's so sticky all benefits are negated by the grit that quickly builds up.
So here's what I do: chain out of bag, I whipe all outer surfaces with mineral spirits (if you use degreaser, it may contaminate the lube you can't quite get to on the inner surfaces). I just soak a rag in spirits and run the chain through it, applying pressure to alternate faces so the texture of the rag picks up the dirt. Then I install and ride for about a week (depending on the conditions). It's actually easier to remove the cosmoline once there's dirt in it. Then I take it off, fill a closeable container with mineral spirits, and shake it over and over again. If every part on the chain is rustproof, I eventually use water for different shakings (this might be a bad idea, but it's worked so far), because then I can easily tell if there's more stuff that's still coming off (pour into a white sink, look for black specks). Often I also scrub it with a toothbrush, or something else with firm bristles. This is good for cleaning off the inner part of the links. I might do this for 15-30 min, then use an air compressor to dry it off, or put it in the sun for a while. Once it's fully dry, nothing should come off on your fingers, and it should sound very loud when you just move it about.
Now I actually apply the lube, which for me is Boeshield's T9, and make sure to gently whipe off excess on the outer surfaces after about an hour of drying. Every few minutes I'll move the chain about, shake it, etc. to help the lube penetrate, and flip its position. After letting it dry overnight, it should still feel dry to the touch.
Oh, and for all 3/32's out there, for god's sake, use a SRAM PC-68. It's the quietest, rustproffiest, shiniest chain you can get. So that's it, if you guys have any suggestions...
In my experience I've found that it's great for about 50 miles in most conditions, then there's enough dirt on it to feed an army. The cosmoline penetrates really deeply, and it does lubricate well, but because it's so sticky all benefits are negated by the grit that quickly builds up.
So here's what I do: chain out of bag, I whipe all outer surfaces with mineral spirits (if you use degreaser, it may contaminate the lube you can't quite get to on the inner surfaces). I just soak a rag in spirits and run the chain through it, applying pressure to alternate faces so the texture of the rag picks up the dirt. Then I install and ride for about a week (depending on the conditions). It's actually easier to remove the cosmoline once there's dirt in it. Then I take it off, fill a closeable container with mineral spirits, and shake it over and over again. If every part on the chain is rustproof, I eventually use water for different shakings (this might be a bad idea, but it's worked so far), because then I can easily tell if there's more stuff that's still coming off (pour into a white sink, look for black specks). Often I also scrub it with a toothbrush, or something else with firm bristles. This is good for cleaning off the inner part of the links. I might do this for 15-30 min, then use an air compressor to dry it off, or put it in the sun for a while. Once it's fully dry, nothing should come off on your fingers, and it should sound very loud when you just move it about.
Now I actually apply the lube, which for me is Boeshield's T9, and make sure to gently whipe off excess on the outer surfaces after about an hour of drying. Every few minutes I'll move the chain about, shake it, etc. to help the lube penetrate, and flip its position. After letting it dry overnight, it should still feel dry to the touch.
Oh, and for all 3/32's out there, for god's sake, use a SRAM PC-68. It's the quietest, rustproffiest, shiniest chain you can get. So that's it, if you guys have any suggestions...
#60
Originally Posted by trackstar10
you know, feedback would be nice....were all waiting to see if you've fixed the problem or not
thanks for all the input, though. big help as always.
oh, and btw - here are all the things i ruled out from you suggestions:
-brand new b.b, headset - so those are good.
-chain tension is right on from what i have read. i can just wiggle the chain up and down in the tightest spot when turning the cranks. when on a stand, the back wheel spins freely with no binds.
-chain lube/grease. cleaned and white lightninged.
so time is the only solution that i haven't tried.
#62
Spawn of Satan

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
chain lube/grease. cleaned and white lightninged.
I use regular 10-30 motor oil. Yes it gets dirty but I wipe it down and then apply a little more. When you use a wet lube you should get a dropper bottle of some sort. Put one drop on the center of each link. Start at the masterlink so you know when to stop. Wipe the excess off and you are ready to go.
Clean with a detergent ever couple of weeks.
#63
Fell off the Sober Sofa.
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville, Florida
Bikes: Independent Fabrication Deluxe XT, Club Fuji Dura Ace... Specialized Stump Jumper, Trek 930, Cannondale M300... who knows what the cat will drag in next?
Mine is completely silent. Love it.
Mostly it's just maintainance - a clean, properly-lubricated bike should run silently.
Mostly it's just maintainance - a clean, properly-lubricated bike should run silently.
#65
King of the Hipsters
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 2
From: Bend, Oregon
Bikes: Realm Cycles Custom
I formerly rode with a KMC 610 chain and have since switched to a KMC 810 chain.
My chain gets noisy when I don't clean it.
About every two weeks I soak my chain in WD40, wash it with dishwashing detergent and hot water, lightly spray it again with WD40, thouroughly wipe it with paper towels, and finally reinstall it and lube it with ATB-II chain lubricant.
THEN I wipe it down some more and feed paper towels through the chainring, cog and chain to soak up more surplus lube.
This gives me a bike so quiet I can sneak up on deer.
Really.
On more than one morning I have ridden slowly through a herd of deer, and they don't even blink.
For some reason, a rider on a silent bike doesn't scare them.
They probably don't have file in their brain for "bicycle."
Anyway, totally silent.
My chain gets noisy when I don't clean it.
About every two weeks I soak my chain in WD40, wash it with dishwashing detergent and hot water, lightly spray it again with WD40, thouroughly wipe it with paper towels, and finally reinstall it and lube it with ATB-II chain lubricant.
THEN I wipe it down some more and feed paper towels through the chainring, cog and chain to soak up more surplus lube.
This gives me a bike so quiet I can sneak up on deer.
Really.
On more than one morning I have ridden slowly through a herd of deer, and they don't even blink.
For some reason, a rider on a silent bike doesn't scare them.
They probably don't have file in their brain for "bicycle."
Anyway, totally silent.
#66
It's an old photo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
From: Entropia
Bikes: Cannondale R500, Specialized Hardrock
^ Deer riding is pretty cool, I've gotten close.
Do you actually have the paper towels run between the chainring and chain, so it gets caught and spit out the other end? Maybe I should try this..
Do you actually have the paper towels run between the chainring and chain, so it gets caught and spit out the other end? Maybe I should try this..
#67
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: Redlands, CA
Bikes: Cruzbike Silvio, Cruzbike Mtb Conversion, Raleigh Technium (converted to fixie)
I've tried most of the popular chain lubes and found they all have their inherant weaknesses. The one I heard about most recent and haven't tried yet is Dumonde Tech. It specifies that you absolutely remove the cosmoline on a new chain, thoroughly clean the chain before applying. Once applied, the chains are supposed to run super quiet and go much farther between applications. In fact, you are not supposed to even reapply the lube until you start hearing the chain again. Chains are supposed to run clean and quiet for quite some time between applications. We shall see.
Mark
Mark
#68
Accuracy is Speed
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA
Bikes: 2007 Bianchi 928 C2C w/ Ultegra compact
NJS may not guarantee anything, but Sugino's top flight cranks/chainring is THE BOMB.
The Grand Mighty Gold with Gigas ring (.05mm tolerance roundness) running on a quality BB pulling Izumi V chain over an EAI Superstar stainless steel cog? Smooooooooth as butter. Sure that package costs almost a grand, but hey, you get what you pay for right?
The Grand Mighty Gold with Gigas ring (.05mm tolerance roundness) running on a quality BB pulling Izumi V chain over an EAI Superstar stainless steel cog? Smooooooooth as butter. Sure that package costs almost a grand, but hey, you get what you pay for right?
#69
King of the Hipsters
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 2
From: Bend, Oregon
Bikes: Realm Cycles Custom
Originally Posted by Boss Moniker
Do you actually have the paper towels run between the chainring and chain, so it gets caught and spit out the other end?
#71
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,744
Likes: 1
From: Van BC
Originally Posted by CCCCCCC
could you guys keep it down alittle..
#72
Originally Posted by BeerBiker
I've tried most of the popular chain lubes and found they all have their inherant weaknesses. The one I heard about most recent and haven't tried yet is Dumonde Tech. It specifies that you absolutely remove the cosmoline on a new chain, thoroughly clean the chain before applying. Once applied, the chains are supposed to run super quiet and go much farther between applications. In fact, you are not supposed to even reapply the lube until you start hearing the chain again. Chains are supposed to run clean and quiet for quite some time between applications. We shall see.
Mark
Mark
#74
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,401
Likes: 19
not according to that track coach on here who swears by izumi's top of the line chain for it's superb silence.
Cogs are a part of it too, of course, and unfortunately my experience is getting to be a bit out of date. There are some cogs out there that I haven't used. Campagnolo, Shimano, and Suntour all make/made good cogs. IMO most of the rest are least one step down, and some several. I never liked EAI, despite some good reviews around here. Perhaps they've improved, but they used to come with sharp edges that made noise, and threads that were slightly different from the thread on hubs from the "big three". The new EAI Superstar cog is perfect, though.
Most chainrings work quite well, in my experience, including those from Sugino. I takes a pretty bad ring -- or a bent ring -- to add much noise.
If your bottom bracket or hub is adding to drivetrain noise, it's seriously f*cked and you've got bigger problems than a little noise. If your bottom bracket or hub is adding to CHAIN noise, you need to lower your dosage, mate.
Mismatched components can contribute to noise, as the chainline needs to be absolutely perfect, and I mean to less than a millimeter. If a straightedge held to the ring and sprocket show even a slight deviation, you're going to get noise. This deviation can be introduced by something as small as a Campy hub with a Shimano crankset. The folks riding conversions made up from stuff laying around the garage are likely to encounter some really amazing chainlines, and they'll make noise, at least until the chain falls off. Spacers can be your friend, here.
Lube is important. Wet lubes are a prerequisite for a quiet chain, in my experience. Do what you will with your mountain bike, but wax, White Lightning, and other "dry" lubes will result in a noisy chain on the FG. If not immediately, then soon.
And tension plays a part too, of course, but not as much as some folks think, at least as long as a great chain is used. With the Izumi V, you will be fine if the chain isn't bar tight or dragging on the stay. That's a slight exaggeration, but then, it's only a slight exaggeration! Lesser chains are more sensitive about tension, in my experience.
I think that about covers the subject. All this, BTW, applies to 1/8" chains. A very simple way to achieve a quieter drivetrain is with 3/32". The 3/32" is more likely to unship, in my experience -- the results of bad chainline and/or poor tension are more severe -- but all other things being equal, road chains are usually quieter.
HTH!
Last edited by Six jours; 05-28-07 at 01:12 AM.




