Chain tension
#1
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Chain tension
So I got the drivetrain all setup on my ss project. I had ordered a half link in anticipation of needing it, but once I had it all setup, the chain is pretty damn taut. There is only about 1/2" of deflection, and i have to force it to that.
What is ideal? I mean, the cranks rotate smoothly and quietly, but I don't wan't to damage anything if it's too tight. I'm running a 36x16 combo right now, although I havent been able to ride it till I get some tires and a seat.
What is ideal? I mean, the cranks rotate smoothly and quietly, but I don't wan't to damage anything if it's too tight. I'm running a 36x16 combo right now, although I havent been able to ride it till I get some tires and a seat.
#2
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From: Van BC
If you have to force deflection it's probably too tight. I like the slack in my chain to feel a touch floppy, not taut like a bowstring, so when you deflect it you are actually just lifting it up a bit, fighting gravity not chain tension. That way you're sure it's ok. There's really no safety related reason to have it as tight as possible without binding and it's too easy to get it too tight and mess up your bearings and drivetrain.
Last edited by mander; 06-11-07 at 02:16 PM.
#3
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Originally Posted by mander
If you have to force deflection it's probably too tight. I like the slack in my chain to feel a touch floppy, not taut like a bowstring, so when you deflect it you are actually just lifting it up a bit, fighting gravity not chain tension. That way you're sure it's ok. There's really no safety related reason to have it as tight as possible without binding and it's too easy to get it too tight and mess up your bearings and drivetrain.
It's not binding in any way that I can see, then agian it hasn't been placed under any load so I'm not sure.
#5
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Originally Posted by dutret
My guess is that it's going to be too loose with the half link. You may have to use a different ratio.
Thats what I was thinking, but maybe I'll give it a shot. Hell, I haven't even ridden it yet so I have no idea if that ratio will be good for me or not.

It looks soooo good right now though.
#8
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Originally Posted by dutret
If everything spins freely and you don't mind slightly faster wear you're probably better off where you are.
magic gears are ***** to get perfect.
magic gears are ***** to get perfect.
The wheelset is old and was cheap to begin with (stock wheel and hub from a $250 1995 Trek) so if it does cause wear, I'm not too worried about replacing it.

I just really didn't want to run a tensioner unless I had to.
Ohhh you're magic gearing it eh? That's a different kettle of fish and pretty hard to pull off. I'd just buy an eno or run a tensioner if i were you.
#9
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From: Van BC
Oh, I've been there man, as a $300 build bloats up to a $1300 build and beyond some marital stress can ensue in the mander household. Well, a tensioner is cheap, and it will give you a lot more flexibility with your gearing as well as allowing you to run slightly stretched chains. But do whatcha want!




